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Old 02-09-2019, 01:50 PM   #31 (permalink)
Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: TX, NM or on the road
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These are old pictures of a TBC system I used to turn game calls. I added some notes to the pics to explain the operation. The same system can be used for pens. To make this system, I would take a 6" long blank, thread one end for the headstock and turn between centers, then cut the long piece in the two pieces in the picture.

Since the OP has a drill chuck, the C bit shank would be part A, and he has access to a metal lathe, I would make part B with a C bit sized extension and create my own version of the PSI TBC system.
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Old 02-14-2019, 05:08 AM   #32 (permalink)
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Location: Morristown, NJ
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Update: I found an old broken bit slightly larger than a C size. I was out of pen kits but had 2 coffee scoop handles to make, which do not require a through hole. One I made using the new Nova chuck and the live center in the tail stock and it proceeded without drama, tho’ it did result in a bit more waste than I would have liked. I was being cautious providing for security of the blank thru the process.
On the second, I used the drill bit/drive center and the live center. It ran pretty well, and I had much less waste, partly because I did not go deep with the center drill on the tail end. However, there was a good amount of skipping due to the pressure I could exert from the Shopsmith’s quill. It just doesn’t have the ability to exert the same amount of pressure a tail stock feed can. Despite the skipping, I completed the project and it came out very nice.
I’m about to turn a “Princeton” kit which requires a 2 1/4” (rough) blank and would like to use the same method with the drill but I’m concerned about skipping. I DO have the bushing kit for that pen.
Is there something I can do with the tapered end of that drill so it will ‘grab’ the bushing better? Perhaps dress it with rough sandpaper?
I’m also trying to adapt to my new carbide cutters. They do cut faster and more reliably, I’m still trying to get the right tool rest heights in relation to the blank and ‘feed angle’ of the tool itself. They are massive compared to my old ones. My concern is when in particular I’m using the square tip that, once I get past the initial roughing stage, I get a sound that resembles that of a chip-out occurring with my old tools. When I stop the machine, 90% of the time I find no chips, but the sound worries me that I’m not making a clean cut. I tried reverting to my old tools, but now their usefulness is limited. Any advice appreciated!

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Last edited by Chasboy1; 02-14-2019 at 05:16 AM.
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