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Old 09-12-2017, 08:57 AM   #11 (permalink)
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ghansen4 View Post
Wow, you guys were spot on. Turns out it was in fact Inlace Acrylester with a carbide tool. What are some of the easier acrylics to turn with carbide?

How about something like this?
https://www.exoticblanks.com/Maroon-...ack-AA-39.html
That's because we've been there before ;) I will say this, the Acrylester is worth the effort but there IS a learning curve. I'd suggest practicing on some single tube pens with short tubes so you don't feel the pain as much when you blow one up. Go ahead and get yourself a nice skew chisel. The carbide tools are great and I laid my skew down when they got popular several years ago.. but.. it's worth picking it up to do some things the carbide can't. When you've got soft spalty wood or blanks like acrylester you'll appreciate being comfortable with the skew.
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Old 09-12-2017, 10:35 AM   #12 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ghansen4 View Post
Wow, you guys were spot on. Turns out it was in fact Inlace Acrylester with a carbide tool. What are some of the easier acrylics to turn with carbide?

How about something like this?
https://www.exoticblanks.com/Maroon-...ack-AA-39.html
Yes, that is acrylic acetate--the easiest of the acrylics (possibly tied with alumilite). It is the material used in the third video cited by Tony.
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Old 09-12-2017, 07:56 PM   #13 (permalink)
 
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I turned my first piece of the inlace acrylester last week. Woodturningz told me to avoid the carbide and if I used a gouge to keep it vertical until I got a feel for it (see First, First, First under other things). Started with the ornament so I could freestyle. Approaching round was tough and after "knocking" the corners off a little I went with a sharp skew that I honed on a stone halfway through. Again, staying very upright on the approach as I got a feel for it.


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Old 09-13-2017, 06:01 AM   #14 (permalink)
 
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Greg; All the other suggestions are good ones. The post by Brian (OZturner) is especially complete. You need to figure out what went wrong. Some materials are easier than others, but all can be done successfully with the correct technique. Especially examine the broken pieces of the blank, where did the glue joint fail, is the glue on the blank or the tube. If the glue is on the blank, you need to scuff the tube with sand paper and wipe down the tube with denatured alcohol.

There is a "best practices" Wiki page on Blank preparation. Try to round off the blank corners on a power disc sander before you start to turn. Mount the blanks on a mandrel and use it to hold the blanks.

Hope this helps.
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Old 09-13-2017, 08:09 AM   #15 (permalink)
 
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Sharp tools- I keep my grinder about two steps from the lathe.
I always scuff the tube and clean with DNA before gluing with CA.
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Old 09-15-2017, 07:35 AM   #16 (permalink)
 
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Here's a related question perhaps someone could answer... I finally procured a skew after failing miserably with IA and carbide tools, and it worked phenomenally. Only problem was, I found myself needing to re-hone the edge every 2-3 minutes. Is this normal, or did I perhaps put a poor edge on it to begin with?
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Old 09-15-2017, 07:45 AM   #17 (permalink)
 
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I'm new this this, too, but picked up on decent skew results pretty quick. I use the HF set and found I must sharpen about half way through on acrylic. Also noticed that, depending on what I am trying to accomplish I may develop a "dull spot" sometime near one end or the other, sometimes in the center and sometimes only where I hit metal. Lol.

I switch between left hand cutting and right hand cutting and found that will quickly show if I sharpened poorly by cutting well in one direction but not the other. Except for that situation I typically get 10-15 minutes minimum between sharpening with cheap HSS in the worst situations.


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