Tubes too narrow?

[DurocShark]

I'm finding 1 in 3 PSI kits has the tubes so narrow that when I press in the hardware the wood cracks. Various types. I don't have this problem with CSUSA or Woodcraft kits.

Anybody else find this to be true? (If not, that means I'm screwing something up. )

I just wrecked a beautiful piece of curly Brazilian Rosewood.

To cover the obvious: Yes, I ensure there is no glue or gunk build up in the tube. Yes, I checked there is no curled over lip inside.

I'm uncomfortable reaming the inside of the tube because I don't want the hardware to fit loosely either.

 

[Daniel]

I have noticed this on some kits. My best guess is to thick of plating on the parts. My fiz has been to measure the actual size of the end cap or finial. select a drill bit that is the same size or maybe a touch small and ream the tube with that. I don't ream as deeply as the fitting will seat maybe half that distance. it helps relieve the pressure enough for the wood to not crack but not so much the fitting is loose. you can also use sandpaper rolled up and fit inside the tube. it usually does not take much material being removed.

 

[randyrls]

I'm uncomfortable reaming the inside of the tube because I don't want the hardware to fit loosely either.

Don; Expanding the tubes is probably your best bet. I have cracked Corian pens when pressing the fittings in because the Corian doesn't expand even a little before breaking. I then glue in the fittings.

Take a Transfer Punch or any piece of round metal (drill bit shank if I am careful not to cut myself) that will just fit inside the tube and expand just the 1/4" that the fittings go on. Check the tubes fit on the blank when drilling, You may have to use a slightly larger bit. Glue in the tube as normal, When assembling, put a drop of Flex CA glue inside the tube and insert the fittings with a twisting motion to spread the glue.. Make sue to leave the pen "open" until you are sure the curing fumes have dissipated.

Can I ask what pens you are having problems with? I am about to order some Noveau Scepter and Majestic Jr pens. I have never had a problem with the Majestic Pens.....

 

[DurocShark]

So far it's 2 Funline copper slims, a Designer rollerball, and the Classic Filigree. The rollerball has the curly rosewood. The crack is completely unnoticible to anyone but me. I've asked several people to tell me if they see a crack anywhere. Nobody could. So I'm using it as a desk pen at work rather than disassemble it and turn it again with other wood.

You may be right about the plating. It didn't happen to any of the chrome Funlines I've done.

 

[Larry Gottlieb]

I have experienced the same thing with some chrome funline kits from PSI.

Larry

 

[Vince_Hoffmann]

I've had this happen once with a Woodcraft kit (don't remember which one). I was told that it was excessively thick plating.

 

[Joe G]

I;m a newbie and I am confused. If the barrel cracked because the tube did not fit right, wouldn't expanding the tube make it bigger and subject the barrel to even more stress?
I am using psi kits and need to understand what you folks are saying
Joe.

 

[DurocShark]

I;m a newbie and I am confused. If the barrel cracked because the tube did not fit right, wouldn't expanding the tube make it bigger and subject the barrel to even more stress?
I am using psi kits and need to understand what you folks are saying
Joe.

What's happening is the tubes being too narrow (or the hardware too wide) so when the fittings are pressed into the tubes, the tubes stretch. If this happens while there is wood/acrylic/whatever wrapped around the tube, the material has to stretch as well. Most materials don't like to stretch. Expanding the tubes BEFORE gluing into the blank would alleviate the problem, but then the problem becomes making them TOO loose. Hence my conundrum. And it's difficult to tell before pressing the parts in if they're going to be too tight or not.

 

[ed4copies]

Joe,

What happens is this: When inserting the hardware, if the fit is so tight that the "nib piece" stretches the brass tube, it will also put stress on the wood, which is very thin at the nib. The wood can crack.

If, instead, you "flare" the brass BEFORE you turn it, there is enough wood there to "resist" cracking. And, if it cracks while being turned, it is easy to repair on the lathe. If it cracks in assembly, the repair is a pain.

Hope this helps.

 

[ed4copies]

Don,

IF you use a normal "flaring" tool, you are only stretching the very end. I use this, and a small pocket knife (in extreme cases, a dremel tool) to expand the tube, IF the diameter of the fittings is too large. (This is where a caliper or 3 in stock is sure helpful).

 

[THarvey]

I notice this with the copper and also the black enamel plating. The plating seems to be thicker than the gold and chrome.

I started sanding the tenon on the hardware very carefully, with 1000 or 1500 grit. Use a very light touch. It does not take much to break the edge of the plating. Just be careful that you do not touch any of the parts that will be exposed after assembly. Also, make sure you remove any loose debrie from the parts.

 

[papaturner]

The only breakage I`ve had has been my fault What I have learned from the ones I have broken is that the kit part has to be perfectly straight when seated into the tube assembly with the pen press.

On the black enamel that THarvey mentioned all I get is the black enamel flacking off the part,which is it`s self is a royal pain in the pen.:biggrin:

Not sure this really helps anyone but hope so.

 

[randyrls]

Expanding the tubes BEFORE gluing into the blank would alleviate the problem, but then the problem becomes making them TOO loose. Hence my conundrum. And it's difficult to tell before pressing the parts in if they're going to be too tight or not.

Don; I expand the tube ends, and then check the fittings until they are an easy slip fit. Takes just a few seconds.

 

[DurocShark]

But... They're supposed to be an interference fit, not a slip fit, right? Slip fit means I'd have to add glue?