TruStone question

[Tage]

I have a friend who is ordering a pen from me - Jr Statesman in Blue Lapis Tru Stone - She has her heart set on the Tru Stone. I haven't turned Tru Stone yet and I'm a bit nervous about it, but I told her I'd give it a shot.

I understand Blue Lapis is one of the harder Tru Stone colors. CSUSA's advice was to use a round nosed scraper with a 10 degree bevel ground in the top, ostensibly to take a lighter cut. Has anyone ever has experience/success with this?

I would appreciate any other advice. I don't have a carbide tool (though I plan to order the Woodchuck when I can fit it into the budget). My available tools are the PSI mid sized chisels that I've been using successfully. I also just came across a full sized set of Harbor Freight's red handled set (though no roughing gouge in there) in Dad's basement. They managed to follow me home.

Thanks ahead for all words of wisdom.

 

[witz1976]

Spindle gouge and skew is all I use. Big thing is during drilling, go slow and check for heat, let it cool down if it gets hot. As for turning crank the lathe nice and high and make sure your tools are sharp. You should have no issues.

 

[Andrew_K99]

I have only turned trustone once, it was Red Dino Bone. I was a tad cautious as I read all the warnings. It is certainly harder than acrylic/wood and you take off much less at a time but I had no issues at all. I'd do it again without worry now, just make sure the tools are sharp and you're taking light cuts and it'll be fine.

AK

 

[SteveG]

Agree with Dan. Also, because the material is harder, you will need to touch up the cutting edge as you work the one pen blank. This is normal for tru-stone. Carbide lasts much longer, but it will dull more quickly with this material.

 

[ed4copies]

What has been said is good--careful drilling, sharp, light cuts.

One additional--sand off the corners, making the square, round before you put it on the lathe. DON'T build up heat--but get the corners off. When turning, start from "off the blank" to "on the blank"---it is less likely to tear out that way (thanks Jerry Sambrook!!)

 

[Richard Gibson]

Ed- I'm still learning also. What does "start from "off the blank" to "on the blank" mean??

 

[ed4copies]

Ed- I'm still learning also. What does "start from "off the blank" to "on the blank" mean??

Weren't you watching Jerry???? He was in our booth at the AAW!!! BOY, did I LEARN stuff!!!

He starts with the tool to the right of the blank--over the bushing---then slowly takes off material coming IN to the blank, moving the tool to his left.

If you think about it, this is brilliant--because you are cutting into the material, so it is supported by the material behind it, making it less likely to shatter.

(I thought I was a pretty advanced turner, until I watched Jerry--but don't tell HIM---He'll get a big head!!):biggrin::biggrin::biggrin:

 

[Tage]

Thanks to all for the advice. If successful, I'll post a pic.

 

[Frank Nemke sr]

You WILL post a picture

 

[firewhatfire]

Woodchuck penpro is what I use to turn them. It has been worth the expense it cost to buy it

 

[jttheclockman]

Ed- I'm still learning also. What does "start from "off the blank" to "on the blank" mean??

Weren't you watching Jerry???? He was in our booth at the AAW!!! BOY, did I LEARN stuff!!!

He starts with the tool to the right of the blank--over the bushing---then slowly takes off material coming IN to the blank, moving the tool to his left.

If you think about it, this is brilliant--because you are cutting into the material, so it is supported by the material behind it, making it less likely to shatter.

(I thought I was a pretty advanced turner, until I watched Jerry--but don't tell HIM---He'll get a big head!!):biggrin::biggrin::biggrin:

That is just one's person way of thinking. I do not agree with that thought. To expand on the thought of coming into the blank you now run the risk of getting a catch and a large chip out. You are always taught to to ride the bevel of the tool before cutting. There is nothing to ride on when cutting like that and you are relying on your ability to lightly touch that blank. Not for me.

I suggest the opposite. It is always a good idea to take the ends down close to the bushing first or at least work them down before attacking the center to eliminate blowout on the ends. To do this start 1/8" from the ends and start making your cuts toward the bushing and keep doing this until you get about 3/8" back and you have a nice beveled cut torward the bushing. You now relieved the stress on the ends and the center of the blank has enough material to support the tool.

I am not saying one way is right or wrong but those are turning tips101. At least that is how I was taught.

 

[JerrySambrook]

John,
That was part of something Ed did not write, You and I do that the same. I do take the ends down to a little proud. Somewhere about 1/16-1/8 in from either end with a peeling cut. However, I do "come off" the piece, except I do it with a wrist motion that keeps some of the bevel riding. This is what keeps me from getting the catches. Also, coming all the way off is not a hard or dangerous thing to do once you have tried it a few times, and use a bevel rub to locate where the blank is and then advance from there. It is no different than doing any of the bowl cuts where one starts off the blank and comes on. Just like the addage on not cutting uphill, it is what is taught, yet I and others do it often, as it can be a more efficient way to get some cuts in, and/or a more accurate way of doing it as well.

Sincerely,
Jerry Sambrook

 

[jttheclockman]

John,
That was part of something Ed did not write, You and I do that the same. I do take the ends down to a little proud. Somewhere about 1/16-1/8 in from either end with a peeling cut. However, I do "come off" the piece, except I do it with a wrist motion that keeps some of the bevel riding. This is what keeps me from getting the catches. Also, coming all the way off is not a hard or dangerous thing to do once you have tried it a few times, and use a bevel rub to locate where the blank is and then advance from there. It is no different than doing any of the bowl cuts where one starts off the blank and comes on. Just like the addage on not cutting uphill, it is what is taught, yet I and others do it often, as it can be a more efficient way to get some cuts in, and/or a more accurate way of doing it as well.

Sincerely,
Jerry Sambrook

Jerry

I understand the principle of what you are doing but it is something I would not teach beginners. The way I mentioned is to me alot safer and I too roll my tool off the edge. To me there is no need to introduce a possible problem especially in something as small as a pen blank. Bowl turning is abit different.

As I said it is just one person's way of doing things and you do and teach as you feel is confortable. I would not be confortable with that method. Good luck and thanks for the explanation.

 

[JerrySambrook]

I too do not teach beginners this method.

But, once again, the principle is the same as turning a bowl.
Do you start with the tool on or off the wood when you do bowl work?

 

[jttheclockman]

I too do not teach beginners this method.

But, once again, the principle is the same as turning a bowl.
Do you start with the tool on or off the wood when you do bowl work?

I thought we were talking pen turning and not bowl turning.

Like I said it would not be not my choice of cuts to do a simple, simple, simple pen blank. If you are comfortable showing whomever you want to your method of cutting feel free to do so. When Ed made the statement I just wanted to also put out there that is not the first choice of doing the cutting like that. As is many times on this forum there are other ways of doing things and it should not be taken as fact that one way is better than another. For some it may just be. We are going to have to agree to disagree on this point. Good luck with your teachings.

 

[ed4copies]

I think you nailed it JT!!

I have always turned from "on" the pen to "off", with a rolling cut at the end.

When I watched Jerry go the opposite direction, it made sense to me. As he said, he did take the blank down very close to the bushing on the end first. The concept of the material being supported makes sense to me.

So, I will now attempt to master that technique. Certainly not abandoning the "rolling over" either.

Every arrow in the quiver allows me another poor aim.:biggrin::biggrin::biggrin:

 

[jttheclockman]

I think you nailed it JT!!

I have always turned from "on" the pen to "off", with a rolling cut at the end.

When I watched Jerry go the opposite direction, it made sense to me. As he said, he did take the blank down very close to the bushing on the end first. The concept of the material being supported makes sense to me.

So, I will now attempt to master that technique. Certainly not abandoning the "rolling over" either.

Every arrow in the quiver allows me another poor aim.:biggrin::biggrin::biggrin:

Good for you Ed and I wish you success. If he rolls the ends down as he says then he actually is riding the bevel just coming into the blank at the opposite angle. Probably left handed turners do this more often:biggrin:

As we all know if you are just trying to avoid blowouts we all know these can happen any time in any cutting manner. Sharp tools and listening to the cut are huge factors in turning.

To me I am from the school of ( if it ain't broke, don't fix it)