buster
Member
I was just wondering how these blanks turn and how are they best finished. I have turned wood and acrylics but none of these. Any help and suggestions are appriciated.
Thanks
Thanks
trustone, alt. ivory , and buffalo horn
- Thread starter buster
- Start date
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PenWorks
Member
Alt ivory turns like a polyester resin, because it is (I think) compareable to inlace and home castings.
Buffalo horn is nice, but can crack, during drilling, turning and just sitting there in your pen rack.
I finish horn with just a sand and buff.
Buffalo horn is nice, but can crack, during drilling, turning and just sitting there in your pen rack.
I finish horn with just a sand and buff.
Johnathan
Member
Get your tools sharp. I've never had a problem with any of them but you need to slow down, not like wood at all. I believe that with the alt. ivory, it is recommended to use a skew for the whole thing but I still use a gouge, then skew. As for the trustone, I think each of them are a little different but as long as you take your time, don't push with your tools, and keep your equipement sharp, you'll be fine. These materials will certainly add a lot to turning and should be a fun experience for you.
GoodTurns
Member
Trustone is probably my favorite material. As previously stated, SHARP IS GOOD. There is a great variety in the different blanks, some are very soft and turn quickly, some are darn near rock hard and you will sharpen frequently! Pay attention to the information Richard (RANDBCRAFTS) posts with his ads, it is accurate and valuable. If you are used to acrylics, the "pliable" blanks will be most similar and easiest to work. the non-pliables are harder and can be shattered if you try hard enough
[B)].
Take your time, don't overheat, micromesh, buff and wax then sell for LOTS OF MONEY!
[B)].Take your time, don't overheat, micromesh, buff and wax then sell for LOTS OF MONEY!
ed4copies
Local Chapter Manager
Sorry, with all the respect I can muster, I disagree with Anthony, because he is incorrect.
Alt. ivory IS a resin, but it does not turn like polyresin. And polyresins each turn differently based on the amount of hardener that was used. Acrylester is "chippy" (lots of hardener), my imported metallics are "softer" (not likely to chip), Dawn's PenPotion#9 is just PERFECT (cause we developed it together, made BY a turner, FOR turners). "Inlace" is another type of resin (I believe it is also a polyresin) --- different source, different name.
Alt Ivory is more "powdery". I believe the coloring agent causes this, but that is a THEORY, not fact.
I agree with the consensus on Tru-stone - each color has it's own characteristics. Richard's analysis is very good.
Sorry Anthony --- I will try to agree with you at my earliest opportunity[8D][8D][8D][8D][8D][8D][8D]
Alt. ivory IS a resin, but it does not turn like polyresin. And polyresins each turn differently based on the amount of hardener that was used. Acrylester is "chippy" (lots of hardener), my imported metallics are "softer" (not likely to chip), Dawn's PenPotion#9 is just PERFECT (cause we developed it together, made BY a turner, FOR turners). "Inlace" is another type of resin (I believe it is also a polyresin) --- different source, different name.
Alt Ivory is more "powdery". I believe the coloring agent causes this, but that is a THEORY, not fact.
I agree with the consensus on Tru-stone - each color has it's own characteristics. Richard's analysis is very good.
Sorry Anthony --- I will try to agree with you at my earliest opportunity[8D][8D][8D][8D][8D][8D][8D]
buster
Member
So buffalo horn is prone to cracking? If I get it turned down to size without cracking does that mean I'm good, or may it still crack. I would hate to make one and sell it and it cracks.
ed4copies
Local Chapter Manager
It CAN crack.
I made a cigar pen for myself - if you keep it in your pocket, seems to do fine, temp and humidity changes may make it crack (transporting to craft shows WILL make it crack- in Wisconsin!- 7 of 'em!)
I made a cigar pen for myself - if you keep it in your pocket, seems to do fine, temp and humidity changes may make it crack (transporting to craft shows WILL make it crack- in Wisconsin!- 7 of 'em!)
Daniel
Member
I have had water buffalo horn crack as much as a year after the pen was finished and setting in a case. I offer it as a pen material but will inform my customers of this problem before filling any order for it. I have never lost a sale yet. those that like the horn really like it.
randyrls
Member
To join the thread; Somewhere in the dim recesses of my mind
I remember that applying mineral oil to ivory prevents it from cracking and I believe this applies to horn too.
I have made a few horn pens and not heard of any cracking. I apply a "polish" of mineral oil as the final step. I agree it does look nice.
ldb2000
Member
I LOVE Tru-Stone ...it is my favorite to turn.
Hi
I use a SCARY SHARP skew to turn Tru-Stone with a shearing cut from start to finish .
As Jon said sharp is good but I'll go one step further and say that just sharp is'nt good enough your skew MUST be VERY sharp , scary sharp is even better , thats not to say you can't turn it and make beautiful pens with dull tools but to really enjoy turning this stuff the sharper the better .
It turns very much like acrylic with alot of hardner , hard but not as brittle and finishes to a beautiful shine just be careful with your starting grit while sanding ,I never start with anything less then 220 and usually start with 320 , if you get any deep scratches in it they are a bear to get out , then I I buff with tripoli and white diamond then a few coats of Ren wax
My favorite is the Lapis but the Black w/ gold looks like money on almost anything you put it on
Hi
I use a SCARY SHARP skew to turn Tru-Stone with a shearing cut from start to finish .
As Jon said sharp is good but I'll go one step further and say that just sharp is'nt good enough your skew MUST be VERY sharp , scary sharp is even better , thats not to say you can't turn it and make beautiful pens with dull tools but to really enjoy turning this stuff the sharper the better .
It turns very much like acrylic with alot of hardner , hard but not as brittle and finishes to a beautiful shine just be careful with your starting grit while sanding ,I never start with anything less then 220 and usually start with 320 , if you get any deep scratches in it they are a bear to get out , then I I buff with tripoli and white diamond then a few coats of Ren wax
My favorite is the Lapis but the Black w/ gold looks like money on almost anything you put it on
randyrls
Member
Butch; Amen; I have been experimenting with a curved skew it seems to work better. I also mount the blanks on the mandrel and knock the corners off with a drum sander before loading onto the lathe.
Do you use the scary-sharp method?
I sharpen my skews on a 12" disk sander with 200 grit paper. It gives me a true flat grind as opposed to a hollow grind. Just call me Tim the Toolman!
leatherjunkie
Member
have not messed with most of what you are asking about.
have made 1 pen out of alt ivory for a friend's wedding sign in book.
the material turned real easy, sanded easy and polished real well.
only sanded it to 100 grit, then used trip buffing wheel followed by white diamond buffing wheel
i made one cigar pen with buffalo horn.
the instructions that came with the blank said to soak it for 24 hours in water before drilling. i didnt do this so i dont know if this helps.
the horn did not crack while turning or completing. the horn cracked 7 months after pen was made. the pen was sitting in my dad's sock drawer the whole time. dad saw the pen fresh off the lathe and stole it before i could admire it.
now after the cracks have appeared, i think it looks better and more natural.
sometimes the small flaws look better to me.
have made 1 pen out of alt ivory for a friend's wedding sign in book.
the material turned real easy, sanded easy and polished real well.
only sanded it to 100 grit, then used trip buffing wheel followed by white diamond buffing wheel
i made one cigar pen with buffalo horn.
the instructions that came with the blank said to soak it for 24 hours in water before drilling. i didnt do this so i dont know if this helps.
the horn did not crack while turning or completing. the horn cracked 7 months after pen was made. the pen was sitting in my dad's sock drawer the whole time. dad saw the pen fresh off the lathe and stole it before i could admire it.
now after the cracks have appeared, i think it looks better and more natural.
sometimes the small flaws look better to me.