tormek question

[nwcatman]

i have one of those new overpriced T-7s and for the most part love it. me and the honer don't get alomg though as i seem to dull the tool w/it. anyway, i want to try turning the inlace acrylis blanks and the rule seems to be a sharp as hell tool. as per you experts advice i have started using a skew more and get lots better results w/it. i see where some company is selling a japaneese water stone that is an 8000 (?) grit and will fit the tormek. would this be a worthwhile investment to get the tools SCARY PLUS sharp and therefore loose less blanks and save valuable turning time? THANKS

 

[TAld]

John, we need a little more info on how you are setting up for honing. Is there a single tool you are dulling are all of them? I'm sure you have already read the book and watched the video. Are you using the "color" method? I know on occasions I just run over and give my skew or gouge a quick hone to give it that edge again. I'm sitting here with a slit in my thumb from yesterday after sharping and honing a skew. Put on the bench then bumped it with my thumb and it proved to me just how sharp it was []

 

[nwcatman]

the hone i am using is the honing wheel on the T-7 itself. the tool, skew, roughing gouge, knife, all come off the grinding wheel great but when i hone em on the wheel i lose the edge. have tried the jig, free hand at diff. angles etc. very seldom does it make it sharper.[]

 

[great12b4ever]

John, is the honing wheel the leather honing wheel? If so, did you condition the leather before applying the honing compound. I pre-conditioned by applying a very liberal amount of mineral oil to get the leather good and supple, then I apply a very small bead of the honing rouge or honing compound to the leather wheel, lightly spread it out on the leather and then hone. Also you do not need to take a long time in honing, just a few seconds . I also bought the second set of honing leather wheels, the small rounded and chisel shaped ones, prepared them the same way, and use them for the inside of spindle gouges, spindle masters and such. Works great. I usually lightly hit the inside first, hone the outside and then use the fingernail test for sharpness. Sometimes, if I honed to long on the outside, I have to lightly move over and hone the inside one more time. I usually spend less than 1 minute honing both inside and outside of a gouge. Hope this helps.

Rob

 

[nwcatman]

the honing wheel ia the leather one that came w/it. i put 10wt oil on the wheel b4 i put the honing paste on for the first time, quite a bit. should i put oil on every time b4 i hone?

 

[TAld]

John, actually the 10w oil is not a great idea (if it is of the motor oil variety) and is not recommended for the leather due to is's petroleum base. A pure mineral oil or store bought "honing oil" is much preferred. The leather hone wheel should NEVER be allowed to run dry during honing. Work the oil into the leather while the wheel is running and then add your honing paste in a small bead around the wheel (about toothpaste size) now evenly spread it across the leather then hone using the jig w/color method, hone until tool is mirror shiny and it should shave the hair off you arm. After the initial honing is done the next time will only take about 1 min or so. Follow "great12b4ever" example for gouges also. Let us know how this works for you. BTW if you are honing several tools always keep that leather moist w/oil.

 

[nwcatman]

cool. thanks for the advice!! i'll try it.