Tool choice for roughing and shaping

[redfishsc]

This is a question coming from a semi-rookie (turned a dozen or so slimlines, some really nice and some stay hidden in a desk somewhere until I can retrieve the pen kit from them!).


Anyhow, I'm a sprouting bowl turner mostly and just started with pens a while back, and plug away at it as time permits.

My question is in regards to the tools you prefer to use for the following cuts/situations. Any help or info you can give me (size, name brand, cutting action, etc...) is greatly appreciated.

BTW if you know of any good videos I can download, please do post a link. I already have PSI's free DVD which is fine, I just want a second opinion.

1) Roughing. I've been using a 5/8" (bar stock size) bowl gouge in the absence of a true roughing gouge. Would a roughing gouge make a big difference? What size is best specifically for pens, as I really don't need it for bowl turning.

2) Cutting tenons for bands. Parting tool? Is there a specific size parting tool that cut the appropriate width cut to begin with?

3) Getting the final shape. Ie, at which point do you put down the roughing gouge and pick up another tool?

4) Skew-- do you use it? How much do you hone it?


5) What tool, in your opinion, is best for matching up the wood to the bushing size? How is that cut made, in your opinion?


I know that's a lot of questions and I appreciate anyone's input.

 

[mrcook4570]

1) Skew

2) Parting Tool 1/8" or 1/16" depending on the situation

3) Skew

4) See above [] I hone it whenever I feel myself pushing the tool.

5) Skew followed by light sanding.

 

[Ron in Drums PA]

You can turn a pen from roughing, to cutting tenons, to getting your final shape with just one tool. A skew.

Sometimes I will use a 3/4" deep flute roughing gouge to turn a pen and I'll use the sides like a skew.

Most times I use both tools

I use all my turning tools right from the grinder, I use either the 60 or the 100 grit wheel

 

[gerryr]

For cutting with the grain, I use a skew, start to finish. I use a 1/8" parting tool and also a 1/16" parting tool I made from an old table knife. Those are my preferences, doesn't mean its right for anyone else. Alan Lacer has two very good videos on using a skew.

 

[alamocdc]

The only difference between me and Stan is that I also use a 3/8" or 7/32" (can't remember the exact size and I'm too lazy to go look) parting tool on occasion. Mostly 1/8" and 1/16".

Oh, and my skew is a 3/4" oval skew from Woodturningz. Got my bowl gouges and round nose scraper from them too. The rest are HF specials and do a great job. My 1/16" parting tool is made from a kitchen (butter) knife... 6 for $1 at Wallyworld. []

 

[Rifleman1776]

#1: Depending on size of wood, for blanks, I use a 1/2" gouge, larger, a 1" or 1 1/2" gouge.
#2: 1/4" parting tool for Euro bands.
#3: Put down gouge when all corners are gone, pick up large (1") skew and nearly finish with that, sometimes use 1/2" skew for final sizing of ends near bushings. Dunno why, a point is a point and edge is an edge. Just the way I do it, can't explain the logic, if any.
#4: Yes. Hone when dull. Duh. []
#5: See #3. Carefully.

 

[redfishsc]

Thanks for the pile of responses guys, you're all a big help.

When honing a skew, does it help to, say, hone it with some really fine grit sandpaper like 400 or 600 in the absence of a diamond stone?

 

[alamocdc]

Yes, redfish, that should do fine.

 

[Dario]

My procedure is basically as Frank (Rifleman) described.

I don't really hone my skew, I just touch it up on the belt sander with 100 grit paper (I think).

 

[its_virgil]

Skew from start to finish...for roughing, tennons, beads, coves, final shaping, or whatever needs to be done. Parting off with a parting tool of course. You should learn to use the skew, it is a great tool...and versitle.
Do a good turn daily!
Don

Originally posted by redfishsc
<br />This is a question coming from a semi-rookie (turned a dozen or so slimlines, some really nice and some stay hidden in a desk somewhere until I can retrieve the pen kit from them!).


Anyhow, I'm a sprouting bowl turner mostly and just started with pens a while back, and plug away at it as time permits.

My question is in regards to the tools you prefer to use for the following cuts/situations. Any help or info you can give me (size, name brand, cutting action, etc...) is greatly appreciated.

BTW if you know of any good videos I can download, please do post a link. I already have PSI's free DVD which is fine, I just want a second opinion.

1) Roughing. I've been using a 5/8" (bar stock size) bowl gouge in the absence of a true roughing gouge. Would a roughing gouge make a big difference? What size is best specifically for pens, as I really don't need it for bowl turning.

2) Cutting tenons for bands. Parting tool? Is there a specific size parting tool that cut the appropriate width cut to begin with?

3) Getting the final shape. Ie, at which point do you put down the roughing gouge and pick up another tool?

4) Skew-- do you use it? How much do you hone it?


5) What tool, in your opinion, is best for matching up the wood to the bushing size? How is that cut made, in your opinion?


I know that's a lot of questions and I appreciate anyone's input.

 

[ncseeker]

I use my one inch skew from start to finish. It is my favorite tool.

Every time I use it, I first touch it up on the grinder to make sure it's as sharp as possible. I keep my jig set up for it and just hit it very lightly before starting. Also, if I'm turning acrylic, I'll touch it up before the final cut.

I'm far from being an expert here, but this works for me.

 

[bnoles]

Matt,

After watching Rex and Kip DVD's, I ordered the 1/2 inch spindle gouge and plan on giving it a try. They make it look so easy with that thing and then switch to the skew in the end. Although I like my skew, sometimes other tools of choice can work really well for various reasons.

 

[Pipes]

I use a skew for just about everything except beading !! just works for me ![]I use it to bead with a LOT depending on what Iam doing !!

 

[jdavis]

I teach students to use the skew. We also use spindle gouges for certain applications

 

[redfishsc]

I heard from a couple of folks and read a few posts in this thread mentioning using the skew to rough it (from square to round).
This doesn't seem like it would be an easy thing to do--- it is a safer method than using a roughing gouge or spindle gouge?

 

[bnoles]

Originally posted by redfishsc
<br />I heard from a couple of folks and read a few posts in this thread mentioning using the skew to rough it (from square to round).
This doesn't seem like it would be an easy thing to do--- it is a safer method than using a roughing gouge or spindle gouge?

Hi Matt,

The skew is one of those tools that are very versatile and you either love it or hate it. Those that learn to use one well can do about any lathe task with it and only it. For the rest of us who are not real good with one in hand, we can make a mess of the project very quickly. Personally, I like the skew, but I have found by using some of the other tools for their intended purpose, I can get there with my nerves still in tact. I like to reserve the skew for finishing the job.

To answer your real question.... no, I don't think the skew is "safer" than any other turning tool.... just more versatile to those who are good with it.

 

[redfishsc]

I get bizzare looks from bowl turners when I tell them I can hollow a bowl with a skew. Before I ever owned a bowl gouge, I had a skew (this is the cup us po' folks have to drink!).

So far, one of my nicest turnings, a very thin-walled cherry bowl, was hollowed entirely with a skew.

 

[alamocdc]

Holy crap, redfish, that is nice! I've had other bowl turners (2 master turners) tell me that you NEVER, EVER want to use a skew on a bowl. Especially the inside! They said you are just beggin for disaster. However, I do use my 5/8" flat skew on the outside for shear scraping at times. []

 

[bnoles]

YIKES.... redfish!

Remind me never to splain skews to you again [:I][:I][:I]

That is one nice piece!