Too tight barrel fit

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dickhob

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I'm trying to turn my first pens for Xmas. Asside from exloding blanks because I guess I didn't do a good job of gluing and/or trimming, I've got another problem (I think).

I'm using a PSI Classic package. When I try to press the ends onto the barrels, it requires A LOT of pressure. I made what I thought would be a pretty strong press out of maple, but have ended up using a vise. Even that requires some pretty good muscle to seat the ends. I went a bit too tight on one and split the wood on that end. I can't image "disassembling" this thing it is on so tight.

Being new, I haven't a clue- is this normal? How tight do these parts have to fit together? Is it accepable to ream out the barrel a bit with something like 220 grit sandpaper, or am I asking for trouble?
 
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JimGo

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Double-check the iniside of the barrel to make sure it is clean. It should require some force to get the parts in there, but I often wind up with CA or other glue inside the barrel. Even a tiny speck is enough to make it tough to seat the components. I use needle files to help clean out the insides. Another idea is to grab a countersink bit (Harbor Freight has a hand-held set for about $5, IIRC) to chamfer the inside of the barrel. Bill Baumbeck sells a similar tool too. Some times the end of the barrel will bend over slightly when you're trimming it, and that can be enough to cause problems. The combination of cleaning the inside of the tubes with the needle files and using the countersink bit has significantly improved my fits with press-fit components.
 

pete00

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dick

im new to this but.
i use a vise lined with hardwood floor pieces. Im always denting or imprinting the wood. not sure how much pressure that is. never thought about it, but i can still knock out the pieces with a rod.
Sometimes it takes me a while to knock it out but i can.
pete
 

Randy_

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Originally posted by JimGo
<br />...Another idea is to grab a countersink bit (Harbor Freight has a hand-held set for about $5, IIRC) to chamfer the inside of the barrel. Bill Baumbeck sells a similar tool too....

I just use a drill bit that is an eighth or so larger than the diameter of the tube. Has always worked just fine for me. The biggest drill bit I have is 1/2" so this method won't work for me on a few of the biggest pens; but I never make the really big pens, anyway.

As JimGo said, the most likely source of your problem is a foreign substance in your tubes. You should "almost" be able to press in the parts by hand.....not a great deal of force is normally required. If your clean out your tubes and they are a little loose, just a tiny dab of CA "IN THE TUBE" will solve that problem.
 

Scott

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Hi Dick,

No, that kind of effort to seat the parts is not normal. Everybody has given you good advice above. It is likely there is glue or something in the tube. But, if all these other suggestions don't work, it is possible that the tubes you got with the kit just don't meet tolerance. To make them work you may have to use a small file to open up the tube some. Really what needs to be done is to return them to the manufacturer, and make them replace them. But where you just want to get your pens made, try opening up the tubes some. If you just force them in, it expands the tube and will crack your pen, as you have discovered.

Scott.
 
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hello dickhob, what i use on the tubes after i've glued and trimed each of the four sides is a de-burring tool i got along time ago for my locksmithing business. great for de-burring the tubes. you should be able to find them in most of your hardware stores. it made by General.......good luck

laurie
 

wayneis

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Also the brass brushes for gun cleaning work really well to clean the inside of tubes. This is what I have been using for quite a while, along with the chamfer tool from BB and I'm in business.

Wayne
 

Hugob

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BEST PLAN EVER......... make sure there is NO glue in the tubes when gluing it.
Cut a slize of potato( yes potato), and put the tips of your tubes in the potato before gluing them. This will create a plug. Will prevent any glue to get into your tubes........ [:)]
 

Rifleman1776

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Mountain Home, Arkansas, USA.
JimGo and others have pinpointed the most likely source of the problem. After turning I always re-mill the ends for squareness, the mill guide is really just a drill and it does a good job of cleaning out the tube. Chamfering the ends (very slightly) is also often necessary and not a bad idea as a routine. They should not be as hard to assemble as you describe.
 
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