Tip for "production mode"

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alphageek

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Ok... This may not be "casual conversation" but I had to share my madness somewhere and I don't know where it applies.

Heres a little tip... If you're going to attempt to produce multiple copies of an item, make sure you have the "recipe" and prototype first.

I decided to try and make about a dozen celtic knot blanks. Its been a while since I did one, but I've done them before... so.... I should be able to do it again, right?

Cut up pieces for inlays... (in a couple different woods)....
The setup my saw for cutting the blanks to add the pieces...... Cut the first angle in all the blanks...

Glue in an inlay... Cut the second angle... glue in an inlay....

Realize that I had the angle too narrow and there won't be any of the middle of the rings when done....

Doh!

Oh, well.... Time to make up a prototype and try again.
 
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jttheclockman

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Any angle should work. The final look weather it is stretched out or not is the final look. You can always do just 2 cuts on opposite sides and go for oval look. Why not try one being you went that far and show us the results and we will decide up or down:biggrin:
 

alphageek

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Any angle should work. The final look weather it is stretched out or not is the final look. You can always do just 2 cuts on opposite sides and go for oval look. Why not try one being you went that far and show us the results and we will decide up or down:biggrin:

I was already going to try that... I'll post a picture if it works at all (to save some of the blanks)... I know that any angle works, but I made these with my table saw, so the rings are a little thicker and there has to be some material on the sides to show through right.

Also I stopped with some and used them just as a segmented with one angled ring.

I'm not really complaining.... Its just one of those lessons... It doesn't save time when batch making something if you make the same mistake over and over.
 

randyrls

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I know that any angle works, but I made these with my table saw, so the rings are a little thicker and there has to be some material on the sides to show through right.

Dean; I use a 7-1/2" circular saw blade that cuts a .075" kerf on my TS. It is has carbide tipped teeth, but cuts cleanly and the only down side is I am limited to a depth of cut of about 1-1/2".

PS. This size saw blade will not work on a Saw Stop equipped TS. :frown:
 

mick

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Decatur AL, USA
Always hate to hear when something like that happens. You could cut more insert pirces in contrasting woods and have a four color knot. This way the center, while closing up, would still have a pattern of sorts.
 

alphageek

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randyrls said:
Dean; I use a 7-1/2" circular saw blade that cuts a .075" kerf on my TS. It is has carbide tipped teeth, but cuts cleanly and the only down side is I am limited to a depth of cut of about 1-1/2".

PS. This size saw blade will not work on a Saw Stop equipped TS. :frown:

That's a really good idea... I hadn't thought of that... I have a nice 10" thin blade but it's not that thin. I used to do my knots on a chop saw so I will steal my good blade I used and try that. My old ts was fair so I never tried that.... On the new on that may rock.

Thanks.
 

jttheclockman

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randyrls said:
Dean; I use a 7-1/2" circular saw blade that cuts a .075" kerf on my TS. It is has carbide tipped teeth, but cuts cleanly and the only down side is I am limited to a depth of cut of about 1-1/2".

PS. This size saw blade will not work on a Saw Stop equipped TS. :frown:

That's a really good idea... I hadn't thought of that... I have a nice 10" thin blade but it's not that thin. I used to do my knots on a chop saw so I will steal my good blade I used and try that. My old ts was fair so I never tried that.... On the new on that may rock.

Thanks.


I tried following all that blade switching and things you are going to try but I gave up. You confused the heck out of me. I just would like to warn you to not put a chop saw blade on a tablesaw especially if it has a negative rake to it. You will be launching pieces.
 

gketell

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37.5 degrees works really nicely on a table saw using a 10" thin-kerf blade. Makes for good looking knots.

45 was too steep and left the center too open and made the inlays "fat" around the curves. 30 was too shallow not leaving a "center" to the knot. Split the difference....

GK
 

alphageek

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gketell said:
37.5 degrees works really nicely on a table saw using a 10" thin-kerf blade. Makes for good looking knots.

45 was too steep and left the center too open and made the inlays "fat" around the curves. 30 was too shallow not leaving a "center" to the knot. Split the difference....

GK

Thanks!!! I'm pretty sure I was at 30, which is probably the root of my error. 30 was fine with the thin blade, but I lost my center.
 

alphageek

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Green Bay, WI, USA.
jttheclockman said:
I tried following all that blade switching and things you are going to try but I gave up. You confused the heck out of me. I just would like to warn you to not put a chop saw blade on a tablesaw especially if it has a negative rake to it. You will be launching pieces.

Great reminder! I'm ok because the blade I have for my chop saw was a very fine tooth thin blade that I bought. As it is I'm VERY careful with it on the chopsaw since it's not a chopsaw blade.
 
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