Thoughts on Beall vs. PSI collet chucks

[HoratioHornblower]

Hey everyone,

I have some birthday money, and I am wondering if I should spend all of it on the PSI collet chuck or wait and save for the Beall. I have just enough to buy the PSI. I will be using it for kitless, and I really want it to have the least amount of runout possible. I read on the PSI site reviews where it had less than .0005, so what is everyone else's experience? Is it as good as the Beall?

Also, can I buy other collet chucks that are ER32 that would fit this system? I am thinking I should be able to, but I just want to check. Thanks everyone!!!

David

 

[HoratioHornblower]

Anyone have any thoughts?

 

[ed4copies]

Probably hard to find someone with both.

I have the Beall and like it, but the tightening with span wrenches would sure be improved if it were a one hand operation.

I do not know what the PSI does.

 

[ALA]

I bought the Beall Collet and chucks. Later bought a set of ER32 chucks off Ebay. If I had to do over I would just get the PSI Collet and get the chucks off Ebay. I don't know about the quality difference but either one is probably as good as my lathe.

 

[PenMan1]

I have a Beall Collet Chuck, the PSI Collet Chuck and the CSUSA Collet Chuck. All three work well. My favorite is the Beall. It runs a little more true than the other two, has a MUCH SMALLER FOOTPRINT (very important when making custom or closed end pens-or just for avoiding skinned knuckles on the left hand) AND the chuck is made in the USA.

If I were starting over, today. I'd buy the Beall Chuck without collets and THEN BUY the $99 -18 piece collet set from eBay or Amizon. All of the collets that come with the Beall are from China, and I'VE LOOKED EVERYWHERE, and all of the ER32 collets I've found are from CHINA and all appear to be made at the same factory (all the the exact same markings).

Everyone will have different ideas here, but I really do like the smooth operation and small footprint of the BEALL.

Respectfully submitted.

 

[PaulDoug]

I had both, let the Beall go when I sold a lathe. I let it go only because it fit the lathe I sold. Both are good. The Beall was a little more refined in the finish of it, but I didn't notice any difference in the function end. I don't remember the difference in footprint that Andy (PenMan1) mentions and it is something to consider although the difference can't be too great if I don't remember it. Maybe a good thing to do is get the PSI and save up for a set of collets for it. That will save you a little because I guarantee you, you are going to want a complete set of collets no matter which one you buy. Especially if you make kitless pens.

 

[TXTRNR]

I just got the psi set off amazon for $72. I ordered a few collets from a company on line and both have been great

 

[Lenny]

I have the PSI and purchased the additional set of metric collets off ebay. I have thought about getting the Beall because of some suggesting it is slightly better in tolerances. So far I haven't been able to pull the trigger. I do like the rods for tightening on the PSI, the spanner wrenches on the Beall seem awkward as Ed has suggested. Of course a good deal of the time just tightening by hand is sufficient.

 

[log2lumber]

I have the Woodriver Collect chuck from Woodcraft and like it.

 

[The Penguin]

I have both.

like Andy said, the Beall is a bit smaller "footprint" (diameter)

the PSI uses tommy bars to tighten, Beall has spanner wrenches (that ought to confuse the Brits :biggrin: )

the Beall collar (that holds the collet) has a slight machined "oval" on the interior so that the collets are easier to remove. To me, it also helps them fall out a t the most inopertune moments.

I think you'd be fine with either...go with what the budget allows.

 

[randyrls]

I have the Woodriver Collect chuck from Woodcraft and like it.

As I understand it, the Woodriver chucks from Woodcraft DO NOT use the ER32 collets.

 

[markgum]

I'm looking at the apprentice set from Craft Supply, and there is a set of collets and a MT2 chuck on ebay, I'm also watching. saving my pennies before I pull the trigger.
I'm leaning to the ebay because I can continue to use the MT2 if I get a new lathe, and the set from Craft Supply is threaded.
just my 2 cents worth

 

[Lenny]

A morse taper Chuck will be severely limited in what it will do!

Most lathes are pretty standard with their threads ... The Psi version will fit 1 x 8 with an adapter for 3/4 x 16 spindles, while CSUSA has version that fit 1 x 8 threaded spindles or 1 1/4 x 8 as well as 3/4x 16. This range covers virtually all major brand quality lathes.

 

[HoratioHornblower]

Ok, thanks everyone! I think I will just be patient and go with the beall. Runout is important to me, and so is a smaller foot since I have a jet mini. I know runout could be ok on the PSI, but I would not like to take that chance. Now its time to save!

 

[jaywood1207]

I wanted a Beall and after multiple emails and trying to communicate with them about questions I had I gave up. To me the customer service was very bad. Actually it was abosolutely nil because they never responded. I bought the PSI and have been very happy with it with absolutely no problems and use it all the time. Save your money and just go with PSI. For those that have both what is the difference in the "footprint" when comparing to each other?

 

[PenMan1]

The difference in the footprint of the PSI chuck and the Beall is substantial. The Beall is about half the diameter of the PSI and CSUSA chucks (these two appear to be identically the same chuck, the front rings are even interchangeable on mine). Additionally , the knurled twist ring is really in the way on work close to the chuck. I have taken the skin off my knuckles more than once doing closed end pens.

I don't notice much difference in the length of the Beall vs the other two, but I never really paid a lot of attention as I have pleanty of lathe bed to work with.

The Beall runs substantially smoother than the other two. I THINK that happens because of the hulking knurled ring on the PSI and CSUSA Chucks.

Also, the "wrench vs the tommy bars" has never been an issue for me on ANY of the chucks, as all my lathes have an index lock. To open or close any of these chucks, I use the index lock and a transfer punch, on the few collects that don't hand tighten sufficiently.

All three of these chucks work well and IMHO it comes down to personal preference and the features that are important to each user.