Which TBC bushings should I buy first

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sbwertz

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OK. The PITH has finally inspired me to go to johnnycnc's bushings and turn between centers. My question. What is the first set of bushings I should buy. I've only been turning a year and I have turned slims, comfort grips, elegant American, and designers. (all 7mm and 8mm stuff). Now I am ready to try something fancier.
I have a metal lathe, so I already have the 60 degree live and dead centers.
 
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IPD_Mr

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Sharon - I would say buy what you turn the most of. If it is slims then buy the slim bushings. If you are wanting to try something new kit wise then I would lean towards the Sierra/EB/Wallstreet/LeRoy as there are so many variations to the kit the a set of them will go a long way. Make sure you have calipers. :)
 

JimMc7

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Jr Gent II was the 1st set I bought -- also fit Jr Statesman II. Just depends on which pen you want to do. I eventually bought all John offered for the pens I do and very happy with all of them (JGII, Baron, Sierra, Elegant Beauty, Cambridge, Cigar and even slimline TBC bushings). I tried the Delrin sized-to-pen bushings for finishing but, for me, I prefer John's Eliminator bushings (used on a mandrel) for all CA finishing.

Can't go wrong with any of them IME.
 

Andrew_K99

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As was discussed in another thread you don't actually need TBC bushings with the 60° counter bore. Although these bushings will have less chance of off center turning they aren't required.

That said, I have yet to try TBC but when I do it'll be with standard bushings and 60° dead/live centers. If I like TBC (which I assume I will) I will replace existing bushings as required with the proper TBC ones.

AK
 

Rob73

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I'd buy what you turn the most -- I bought John's triple play for 7mm's since that's what I turn the most of at the moment. However, when/if I move up to larger single tubes I'll buy from him again in a heartbeat.
 

Padre

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I think you should buy them all! :biggrin:

But seriously: the slimline bushings are versatile and you can get other 'attachments' for razor handles, etc.

Barons are popular, as are Jr. Gent II's.

Just look at your 'collection' and see what you turn the most of, and start there. Then slowly add on. I love all of 'em personally and I have a few more to go to complete my set.
 

sbwertz

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I tried the Delrin sized-to-pen bushings for finishing but, for me, I prefer John's Eliminator bushings (used on a mandrel) for all CA finishing.

Can't go wrong with any of them IME.

I agree on the Eleminator bushings. I've had them for quite a while and really like them
 

KenV

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I have a metal lathe, so I already have the 60 degree live and dead centers.


Any good reason you do not want to make a set on the metal lathe?? With a metal lathe, they are not complex -- just longer than the standard mandrel style bushings and rather than a hole bored on center, a 60 degree cone at the outboard ends (can be done with a center drill too).
 

Dave Turner

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I only turn between centers and have yet to buy any special TBC bushings. Lately I have just used my regular bushings to get close to the final diameter, then use no bushings to finish things up (measuring with my digital caliper). I put the cones right into the ends of the brass tubes and it works great. I've never had any tube flaring problems since I use just enough tailstock pressure to keep the tubes from slipping.

That being said, if you really want to spend money on TBC bushings, I'd buy the 7mm slimline ones. I can't use regular 7mm bushings when I TBC, since they don't slip into the tube ends like all the larger tube bushings. That means I must rough down to size using my calipers. Not a big deal. Just takes a few stops to measure. Having the 7mm TBC bushings would speed things up a little.
 

ryvnd2001

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From my experience I have tried not spending the extra money and using my old bushings for TBC. After much thought and trials, I realized I could take all the guess work and the risk of being slightly out of round by sucking it up and buying Johnny's bushings. They are pricey, but worth every penny! If your spending between $20-$60 on kits and another $10-$20 on blanks why wouldn't you go with the sure thing and spend $25. Also, Johnny's customer service is superior! Just my 2cents

Ryan
 

Manny

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I'd save for several sets to save on shipping. Buying them one at a time is not very practical.

I have a set for long click, JR, and slims. I also own finishing sets
The majority of the time I turn between centers without bushings.

Manny
 

sbwertz

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I ordered the slimline bushings (for the reason you mentioned) and the sierra bushings, since I don't already have them.



I only turn between centers and have yet to buy any special TBC bushings. Lately I have just used my regular bushings to get close to the final diameter, then use no bushings to finish things up (measuring with my digital caliper). I put the cones right into the ends of the brass tubes and it works great. I've never had any tube flaring problems since I use just enough tailstock pressure to keep the tubes from slipping.

That being said, if you really want to spend money on TBC bushings, I'd buy the 7mm slimline ones. I can't use regular 7mm bushings when I TBC, since they don't slip into the tube ends like all the larger tube bushings. That means I must rough down to size using my calipers. Not a big deal. Just takes a few stops to measure. Having the 7mm TBC bushings would speed things up a little.
 

sbwertz

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Where to get Sierra/Wall streed kits

Ok, I ordered the Sierra bushings. Where is the best place to get the kits for it?
 

arw01

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smitty's pen works is a great place, he has a sale on the Le Roi series right now. He's working on a group buy that will be a great deal, so plan on stocking up!
 

IPD_Mr

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Other than the slim line TBC bushings which we all know are different, the rest are much different than the standard bushing. What is interesting to me is that I turned between centers without TBC bushings, I thought what do I need these "special" bushing for. What really sold me was the way they seat into the tube and up against the blank. When I did a demo for our local chapter, one of the things that I pointed out was how a standard bushing seated in the tube and against the blank. The bushing will wiggle from side to side. Probably about .003. Put in a TBC bushing and no wiggle or wobble. The tenon of the bushing is more than twice as long as a standard bushing and you get a solid seat against the blank. So just the fitting of these "special" bushings alone have given me a much more true turned blank than before with normal bushings.
 

Dave Turner

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Most of the IAP pen kit vendors carry the Sierra style kits. I don't like to play favorites, since they all offer excellent service. I've purchased several Le ROI kits from Smitty and have been very happy with them. I think they're a good value. Both Smitty and Exotics have nice fancy slimlines.
 

sbwertz

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smitty's pen works is a great place, he has a sale on the Le Roi series right now. He's working on a group buy that will be a great deal, so plan on stocking up!

I didn't realize the Le Roi was the same as the Sierra. I buy most of my kits from Smitty. Thanks for the heads up. I also found this from Berea. It is an introductory price on a very nice kit but I wasn't sure if it took the same bushings as the regular sierra

http://www.bereahardwoods.com/price/whats_new/new_sierra_4.html

OOPS! I just went back to this link and it is "not available at this time".
 
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biednick

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I would get the slim bushings because with a piece of wood/plastic turned to the ID of your tube and a 1/4in. hole and a few washers you can turn any kit. I haven't tried this but I assume it will work.
 

KenV

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I would get the slim bushings because with a piece of wood/plastic turned to the ID of your tube and a 1/4in. hole and a few washers you can turn any kit. I haven't tried this but I assume it will work.


Well maybe -- in a sloppy way -- the mandrels are a "D" size which is 0.246 and washers are over sized to fit a 0.250 - so you are giving away several thousands of precision (also known as adding slop) before you get started.


I have not tried it either -- because it add too much variability for me to work with it,


Let us know if you are successful --
 

biednick

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I would get the slim bushings because with a piece of wood/plastic turned to the ID of your tube and a 1/4in. hole and a few washers you can turn any kit. I haven't tried this but I assume it will work.


Well maybe -- in a sloppy way -- the mandrels are a "D" size which is 0.246 and washers are over sized to fit a 0.250 - so you are giving away several thousands of precision (also known as adding slop) before you get started.


I have not tried it either -- because it add too much variability for me to work with it,


Let us know if you are successful --

I hadn't thought of that. I'm planning on ordering some bushings and a dead center soon, so I'll try it and let you know.
 
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