Suggestions for polishing the Sumi with Black flavor of TruStone

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MattTheHat

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Mar 14, 2012
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I've tuned a few different flavors of TruStone which polished up very nicely. The White Horse Jasper for one. It's considerably harder than something like Acryluster, but it's really not much more work to get a very nice and shiny polished surface.

Some of the other flavors...meh, not so much. The Red and Yellow Dino Bone, for example. But with those, there's so much texture going on that a really shiny surface doesn't really seem to do much to improve the look.

I recently did a ladies and gents set in Sumi with Black. For those unfamiliar, it's a deep, dark purple with very faint black veining. The purple is so dark that you really have to look to see the black veins, and even then they just don't show much.

I turn on a metal lathe with carbide inserts. After turning, I sand first with 400 grit Abralon, and then wet sand at 400 grit with a padded backing disc, and then at 600. From there I wet sand with MM, starting at 1500 and running through 8000. From there I polish with the three grades of MM plastic polish, and finish that of with a light wet buffing with a 12000 grit MM pad. Pretty much the same routine I use for acrylics, but each step seems to take about twice as long.

In my dimly lit garage the finish looks fine. But when I look at the pens in good light at anything closer than say, 18" or so, I'm not happy with the finish. It looks a bit dull, almost hazy. Similar to what I would expect with acrylic after using the 4000 grit MM pad.

I'm wondering if others have had this experience with the Sumi flavor (or any other) of TruStone, and what you might have done to achieve a better polished surface. I'll readily admit that it's entirely possible that I just rushed the whole process, but each pen was done on different days with near identical results.

I'd post pics (actually I did post a pic of the completed set a couple of weeks ago), but the haziness is fine enough that it just doesn't show up in photographs.

I've ordered several grades of diamond paste and will try them when they land.

The other thought I had was to try applying a CA finish to what I've got now and then polish the CA.

Any others suggestions?


-Matt
 
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Brooks803

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Looks like you're doing quite a bit already. Have you tried taking away some steps to see if one step or another is actually hindering the high gloss finish? This is just me but I've never had a problem with dry sanding to 600 and then MM up to 12000 cross sanding after each grit and lastly polishing with PlastX.

Haven't done the Sumi with black but I got a nice shine on the all black trustone:

1_100_6462.jpg


Sorry Matt -
I stand corrected, kinda. My wife politely :)beat-up:) reminded me of her personal FP. She's the one that turned it, but I snapped the pics for her and forgot about them. Same finishing process as mine with the Onyx Trustone:

040796x800.jpg
 
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bitshird

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Adamsville, TN, USA.
That Sumi almost looks like Sugilite! I'm not sure what's going on with RT Research (the makers of TruStone), but I've seen a lot of inconsistencies in the past couple of years, and we used to buy a lot of their large blocks. but not the pen material, I never had any air holes, soft spots or color differences, but I've noticed some strange things lately, all in the Pliable material.
 

MattTheHat

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Mar 14, 2012
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Allen, Texas
Could indeed be a less is more situation. Now that I think of it, the polish may well be getting soaked up by the material and that might be causing the haziness. I'll try again with just MM pads and see how it looks.

One of the pens did have a tiny void, which is the first I've had happen with TruStone.

Thanks for the tips.

-Matt
 

OKLAHOMAN

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Costa Rica
Ken it could be from the fire they had about a year or so ago and might of had to replace some equipment.

That Sumi almost looks like Sugilite! I'm not sure what's going on with RT Research (the makers of TruStone), but I've seen a lot of inconsistencies in the past couple of years, and we used to buy a lot of their large blocks. but not the pen material, I never had any air holes, soft spots or color differences, but I've noticed some strange things lately, all in the Pliable material.
 

randyrls

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Feb 2, 2006
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Harrisburg, PA 17112
Matt; One difference I have found is to wet sand at 500 RPM or so. That seems to reduce the scratches I see in the finish. If you want a real good look, use a 10x jewelers loupe. Like Brooks mentioned, make sure you sand lengthwise for every grit with the lathe off.
 

MattTheHat

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Mar 14, 2012
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Allen, Texas
I normally do sand lengthwise at least every other grit, if not every grit. I'm probably wet sanding at about 1000 RPMs (but I don't recall for sure), so I'll slow down the lathe a bit.

I use a lighted magnifying glass (5x, I think) which works pretty good. I obsess over what I can see with my bare eyes, I sure don't want to make it worse. :)


-Matt
 

Boomalia

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Jul 27, 2006
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Location
Cochrane, Ontario, Canada.
Hi Matt
I follow all the steps you do with wet MM at 500rpm but then I go to Braso, Huts Plastic Polish then I use Conservator's Wax from Lee Valley. Shines the tru stone up with a high polish but I have not done the black stone yet. It is sitting in the drawer but now I think I will have to turn it see if my methods work on black stone. Hope this helps.
Gary
 
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