Steel wool.... or not?

[Ulises Victoria]

I'm posting this question because I am confused.
Reading the instructions about how to apply Shellawax, it says somewhere "DO NOT USE steel wool on wood because it's made for metal.
CSUSA's instructional videos say in several of them to use 0000 steel wool after sanding your wood project to get a more smooth surface.
So... what are the expert's thoughts here regarding this matter???
Steel wool on wood or not?

 

[Glenn McCullough]

one thumbs up on 0000 steel wool, I use it all the time with great results!!

 

[GColeman]

There are two problems with steel wool and wood.
1. Steel wool is steel. Left unprotected it will rust when exposed to moisture. The manufacturer leaves the oil used in manufacturing on the product to deter rusting during storage. This oil can be transmitted to your project when finishing. If not very carefully removed it can interfere with your final finish.
2. Steel wool is steel. The long strands that make up the wool are thin and brittle. Small shards can break off and embed in the wood. Since most finishes are not impervious to moisture the shards can rust under the finish and show up as splotches later on.

That being said I use it for some things. Mostly now days I use the synthetic pads or micro mesh.

 

[hunter-27]

Only an opinion here, but, you did ask. Perhaps a synthetic "wool" might be of,I use it on occasion but true steel wool by the nature of its composition and design will leave a residue in the pores of the wood. I personally can see no good from that. If some sort of sealer (CA) were used first, maybe. Now I am also one that thinks Shellawax is the wrong product for pens, since you do not specify the use you are talking about, you can feel free to do with this as you may.

 

[monophoto]

3M make a line of non-woven plastic abrasive pads that are intended to be substitutes for steel wool. The white pad is supposedly equivalent to 4/0 steel wool. I've been using one and find that it's pretty good for bare wood, but it doesn't seem to have the same effect as a 4/0 steel wool in smoothing out finish between applications.

 

[scotian12]

I have been using steel wool for 10 years and find it particularly effective in smoothing out the wood after the sealer coat. There probably are safer products to use. Safety is an issue with steel wool. I use the steel wool from Lee Valley here in Canada but you still have to be careful as it will grab the wood or mandrel when you least expect it. Also, the steel wool collects the finish and is susceptible to spontaneous combustion so put it in a sealed steel container after use. Darrell

 

[nativewooder]

I agree with GColeman as to using steel on wood. I have a couple of bowls where 0000 steel wool was used prior to a high gloss lacquer finish and in almost any light you can see light reflected off fragments of steel wool that broke off in the wood or sealer coat.

 

[Holz Mechaniker]

As I was taught,
NEVER BRING A RAG OR STEEL WOOL TO THE LATHE, PERIOD!!!!!!

 

[PaulDoug]

Personally, not a fan of using steel wool on wood.

 

[Kenny Durrant]

I use steel wool as a last step to sanding. I'll turn the lathe off and lightly rub with the grain or end to end. Like Holz said it's just like a rag and the lathe will suck it up before you know it's caught so be extra careful. As far as Shellawax goes I don't use it any longer since I use ca glue as a finish. I was told and agree that the heat from your hands or pocket wears it off too fast so I don't think it's worth it.

 

[wouldentu2?]

Steel wool? Come on its the 21st century, thats so 12 years ago.

 

[Ulises Victoria]

Well I am still a bit lost as far as finishes is concerned. I have done some CA finish, but to be honest, I just don't like the fact that if I am turning a nice piece of wood and then I cover it in CA which is basically a plastic, I am loosing all the meaning of WOOD turning. To me a wood blank covered in CA is the same as an acrylic blank that looks like wood. Sorry to all of you who swear over CA... I just don't. That doesn't mean I wouldn't do it if that's what a customer wants. In fact I feel I have learnt how to do a CA finish to the point that I am completely confident that I will get an outstanding result. All I'm saying is that if I'd be making a pen for myself, it would never ever had a CA finish. And still, I am not so sure what a proper finish for a pen is, that lets the wood remain as wood and lasts the longest. I am sure this sounds weird: I can do better what I like the less :redface:, but that's the way it is. OK I'll stop my rant now. :frown:

 

[Kenny Durrant]

Not to sound like I want to argue because I do understand what you mean about the feel. On the other hand a good long lasting finish brings out the color and charicter of the wood. I guess it's all about what you like the most. Too bad we can't have both. At least that I've found.

 

[JAZNCARR]

3M make a line of non-woven plastic abrasive pads that are intended to be substitutes for steel wool. The white pad is supposedly equivalent to 4/0 steel wool. I've been using one and find that it's pretty good for bare wood, but it doesn't seem to have the same effect as a 4/0 steel wool in smoothing out finish between applications.

mmmm those white trizac pads are 10.00 a piece. you can buy alot of steel wool for a pack of those pads.....

 

[Tom T]

I also like the feel of a wood on a wood pen. I also do acrylic pens.
What I do on wood ( but I am fairly new at this) is cut the pen down very close to the finished size. Then I use the rolled sand paper usually starting on 240, than go to 600 grit.
The I use micro mess pads starting with the black color and go all the way up to the one size under the last one which I think is purple, the last one I think is 12,000 grit. The pen is extremely smooth. I use a jewelers loop to check for scratches. The are none. ( I do check as I go along for scratches). Then I use Mylands friction polish. 3-4 coats. It brings out the grain. It Does not add much color to the wood. Then while still on the machine. Then I apply two coats of Renaissance wax.

Most on the site do not do it this way but it works good for me.
It can leave the pen more natural looking as if the wood is porous, the poor's will still be there, such as on an open wood like a mahogany. But on maple it is very smooth and very lite in color. I have been using pens like this for six months and more and they still look good.
There you have it. I have never seen the need to use steel wool, which several have said will rust if any trace is left behind. Hope my 2 cents helps.
Tom

 

[Tim'sTurnings]

I tried steel wool a couple of times and it made such a mess and some of it got into the finish. I would never try it again. Just my opinion. (Oh, and it also got stuck and wrapped itself around the pen blank a couple of times.)
Tim.

 

[Charlie_W]

Okay, here it is for what it is worth!
Bronze wool....no rust. I use it with my stained glass work. While I do not usually use it for turnings, it will do a splendid job of burnishing the wood after all other sanding is done.
I can find bronze wool locally at Ace Hdwe.

 

[monophoto]

3M make a line of non-woven plastic abrasive pads that are intended to be substitutes for steel wool. The white pad is supposedly equivalent to 4/0 steel wool. I've been using one and find that it's pretty good for bare wood, but it doesn't seem to have the same effect as a 4/0 steel wool in smoothing out finish between applications.

mmmm those white trizac pads are 10.00 a piece. you can buy alot of steel wool for a pack of those pads.....

Are we talking about the same thing? I paid $2.35 for mine, and it seems to last much longer than steel wool.

 

[Ulises Victoria]

$8.06 one bag with 6 2x4 pads.
3M(TM) Synthetic Steel Wool Pad 10119NA, 0000 Super Fine 18 cs [PRICE is per BAG] - Amazon.com

 

[NotURMailman]

Have you tried General Wood Turner's Finish? You can get it from Exotic Blanks. I am very new at this, I only ask because I agree with you about wanting wood to feel like wood and my research and trial and error have lead me to WTF. I have a box that should be arriving today from EB with some WTF in it, I'll let you know how it works out.

 

[randyrls]

I just don't like the fact that if I am turning a nice piece of wood and then I cover it in CA which is basically a plastic, I am loosing all the meaning of WOOD turning. To me a wood blank covered in CA is the same as an acrylic blank that looks like wood. Sorry to all of you who swear over CA...:frown:

I do use a CA finish on wood to protect the wood from hand oils and dirt. BUT; Like you I don't like the feel of the CA finish, so I go over the final finish with steel wool. It gives a nice satin sheen finish to the wood, and doesn't feel like plastic.

 

[Ulises Victoria]

Have you tried General Wood Turner's Finish? You can get it from Exotic Blanks. I am very new at this, I only ask because I agree with you about wanting wood to feel like wood and my research and trial and error have lead me to WTF. I have a box that should be arriving today from EB with some WTF in it, I'll let you know how it works out.

This may help you.
Woodturners finish applying-2min.mp4 - YouTube

 

[Wildman]

You can buy steel wool that does not contain oil. Some folks use little more expensive brass or bronze steel wool. Synthetic steel wool might make more sense.

Woodworker.com: LIBERON<SUP STYLE="FONT-SIZE:8PT">TM</SUP> OIL FREE STEEL WOOL Wool&searchmode=2

Of course, have to remove shards of steel wool before applying another coat of finish or wax. I shop-vac item and surrounding area to be safe.

 

[Ulises Victoria]

I just don't like the fact that if I am turning a nice piece of wood and then I cover it in CA which is basically a plastic, I am loosing all the meaning of WOOD turning. To me a wood blank covered in CA is the same as an acrylic blank that looks like wood. Sorry to all of you who swear over CA...:frown:

I do use a CA finish on wood to protect the wood from hand oils and dirt. BUT; Like you I don't like the feel of the CA finish, so I go over the final finish with steel wool. It gives a nice satin sheen finish to the wood, and doesn't feel like plastic.

Gotta try that. Thanks!

 

[jttheclockman]

Get yourself some nonwoven pads and don't worry about any oils or bits breaking off. I use them all the time and have thrown away steel wool. It is a thing of the past.

 

[Ulises Victoria]

Get yourself some nonwoven pads and don't worry about any oils or bits breaking off. I use them all the time and have thrown away steel wool. It is a thing of the past.

Not familiar with these. Would you copy a link, please? Thanks in advance.

 

[Dulos]

I have found that I get great results if I work my way through 800 grit paper and then using the wood shavings from the same wood to burnish it to it's final prep for the finish. When i do that, the surface is often so smooth that it is hard to tell if i have a finish on it or not. Then I use several layers of a mix of equal parts of BLO, denatured alcohol and shellac for the finish. It is the easiest finish to apply - almost impossible to mess it up, it holds up well and you keep that natural wood feel. If I am in a hurry, I will speed the curing process between layers with a heat gun or hair dryer. -Just my humble opinion.

 

[jttheclockman]

Get yourself some nonwoven pads and don't worry about any oils or bits breaking off. I use them all the time and have thrown away steel wool. It is a thing of the past.

Not familiar with these. Would you copy a link, please? Thanks in advance.

This is what others have mentioned as well. I happen to always pick some up at the Woodworking show that comes to my area every year. But you can get them in any Home center and also Woodcraft. They work great. I use them all the time.

http://www.nortonconsumer.com/SurfacePrepDIY-Non-Woven.aspx