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Old 12-18-2004, 04:28 PM   #101 (permalink)
 
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Daniel in a conversation with a friend last night that is setting up a stabilizing process, he said that heat is also involved along with vacume. The stabilizing product is baked into the wood from what I understood. Another thing for you to ponder.

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Old 12-18-2004, 06:37 PM   #102 (permalink)
 
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Wayne,
You are correct in that we use many woods that are not structurally there enough for just coating with some material that does not lend a strangth to the material. crumbly burls etc. I hope that a couple or even three or four different pricess can be discovered that will work for various applications. in a perfect world the ones for harder woods would be cheaper and simpler. withthe harder more expensive methods being for the soft puncky or simply crumbly type woods. of course lets nto forget the it would be best to just find one dip it and it is done fantasy. who knows it may eventually be found. one thing that cannot be replaced is the ability to consistantly find the quality of woods that say Bill form AS provides. but hte ability to stablize say even redwood. well who will ship off redwood and pay the price to have ti done? if they could get a can of nelsonite or polyurethane or whatever and do it themselves. well it might bring redwood pens to a whole new level.
I just simply think htis is a topic that eventually needs an answer. this group has by far gone the furthest in answering it. I think it is great that you can go back and actually find something I said way back when. it is what I see will make this whole thing possible.
I knew the conversation had gotten split up but hadn't goen and found the pieces myself. hopefully we will find something that works, and then have to gather up all the parts and put them in one place.
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Old 12-18-2004, 07:10 PM   #103 (permalink)
 
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Wayne,
I am awaire that teh process used by the companies use Heat at some point in the process. this is how it all fits together in my understanding.
Blank is submerged in a bath of the stabalizing medium and a vacume is applied. the blanks is then removed from the bath and placed under pressure to furter force the material into the wood. then the whole thing is heated to cure the stabalizing material. I think the heat is applied while the blank is still in the pressure stage as well but never been entirely sure. I hope to find a process that eleminates some of these steps. an acceptable compromise method.
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Old 12-19-2004, 04:18 PM   #104 (permalink)
 
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Gentlemen

Having read this entire thread I am more than a little surprised that no one has mentioned an old fridge or freezer compressor for the vacuum cource.As it was very simply explained to me,(and I need it simple) one side sucks and the other blows. A friend and myself are about to build a small version of a Vacuum Kiln that we saw on this link http://carverscompanion.com/Ezine/Vol2Issue4/LynnDiel/LynnDiel.html

It looks as though it would dry small amounts of wood for turning very quickly without or with minimal checking. Just thought I'd mention this to supplement the wealth of information here..

DanF
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Old 12-19-2004, 04:28 PM   #105 (permalink)
 
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Dan: Link did not work. This one did:

http://www.carverscompanion.com/Ezine/Vol2Issue4/LynnDiel/LynnDiel.html
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Old 12-19-2004, 04:33 PM   #106 (permalink)
 
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Thanks Fred

I went back and changed it but you were to quick for me.

Seasons greetings to you and yours

DanF
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Old 12-20-2004, 02:42 PM   #107 (permalink)
 
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Chris, I couldn't find your posting with the results. Please update us. Thanks.






Quote:
Originally posted by pen-turners
<br />Am halfway through an experiment. Have a couple of Spalted Buckeye Burl blanks soaking in Minwax wood hardener with red dye added and will turn them in a few days. Will let everyone know the outcome good or bad. I also have a batch soaking in plexiglass acetone mixture and will compare the results.

Chris
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