Is Stabilized less hazardous than CA?

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ossaguy

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Jan 3, 2010
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San Diego
I'm getting kinda freaked out by all the warnings I read here about finishing and using CA. I was wondering if it's more safer health-wise to use stabilized wood,where you don't apply and outer finish,but just sand and buff?

I've been pretty careful,by using the DC / hood setup ( without the bag attached ) to suck & blow away the fumes,besides doing it outside.I use a resp-o-rator & safey glasses,gloves but I know I should get a vapor-type mask instead.

I do get bugged by the fumes when gluing the tubes,but may switch to 5 min epoxy instead.

What are the symtoms I need to look out for to be on the lookout if I'm becomming sensitized to it?

Any thoughts on if it's safer? And is it OK to wetsand a stabilzed blank when MM it,or will that harm the wood like it does with reglular wood?

I can't afford to get hurt,I have to be here for my wife.

Thanks for any thoughts!

Steve
 
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ctubbs

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Sep 12, 2010
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Steve, first off I am just an electrician that has sat through countless hours of training in many plants around the country, so my info is spotty at best. As far as sensitivity is concerned, it would probably manifest itself as a rash or other skin irritation first. It sounds like you are already taking most precautions with the respirator . Be very careful with any type of glove around any rotating machinery. Same with any loose clothing. Your lathe does not care what it spins, blank or your neck. Most stabilized wood is impregnated with material to the point where it is plastic, not wood. WEt sanding with MM should cause no problem. It is more like acrylic than wood. There should be an organic cart available for any respirator that will solve the fume problem. I agree with the idea to go to epoxy for tube gluing. On your DC unit, I posted some mods that I made on a bag type DC here. It can be found here;http://www.penturners.org/forum/showthread.php?t=73644. It may or not be helpful with the dust thing. These are just my thoughts on your questions. Give the site a few minutes and there will be many others. Be careful, turn beautiful pens, live and prosper.
Charles
 

1080Wayne

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Feb 5, 2006
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Brownfield, Alberta, Canada.
A wood fibre is still wood after stabilization , and will retain some ability to wick moisture inward , although the grain will probably not raise as much . Many of us use CA as a finish on stabilized blanks for that reason .

Don`t know definitive answer to your other question . There may well be individuals sensitive to the chemicals used in the stabilization processes , others CA sensitive , and perhaps some to both . Take the best precautions you can , and enjoy yourself . Turning is supposed to be a form of stress relief , not a cause of it .
 

toddlajoie

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Feb 6, 2010
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Feeding Hills MA
I've had some stabilized blanks respond very well to wet MM, developing a nice shine that has lasted quite well (one got left outside all summer and was still nice and shiny, this one was stabilized Buckeye Burl). I've also had some that darkened significantly with the wet MM (mostly the darker blue and green dyed/stabilized maples, tho I have not done too many of the other colors, so this would be a very small test sample). I also had a REALLY nice piece of stabilized burl (forget at the moment what burl it was) that I did a CA finish on the cap and no finish on the body, and it also darkened a good bit on sanding, but the CA finish REALLY brought out the burl and looks fantastic. It's sat for a few months now, and the unfinished barrel is showing signs of movement, with edges showing up like fine cracks along the burl lines. So I would suggest that you not rely on stabilized woods to not require a finish. Some will need it and all will benefit from it. Doesn't need to be CA necessarily, I'm looking to try Enduro on one sometime soon...
 

jttheclockman

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Feb 22, 2005
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NJ, USA.
Taking all the necessary cautions will greatly help in your quest to use CA. The fumes can be eliminated if you get the odorless CA. It is abit more expensive but for peace of mind it may well be worth it. Go to Manny's site and get it there. As far as having a reaction to it, it is just like anything we do in the shop, everyone is different. So no one rule will apply for all. If you develop a skin rash and you narrowed it down to something specific just take better precautions or don't use that product. You are not going to die from it. Unless you continue to ignore the signs your body is putting out. Wood dust of any kind is harmful but exotics is worse for some. Acrylic dust is no better. In fact dust of any kind is not good for you. so the point is use your head and take all precautions and you will be fine.
 
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