Spray painting in the house?

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mikeschn

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It's too cold to go outside and spray paint the inside of my blanks. So I'm thinking about doing it downstairs in the basement...

Can I just stick the blanks in a box and spray away, or do I need to do something else?

Mike...
 
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TonyL

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I spray my tubes and barrels indoors (in my shop) while wearing a double vapor mask. I spray the inside of the barrels over a large shop trash pail. I hold the barrels wearing disposable gloves. The tubes are inserted over their own nail driven into the side of a 2 x 4 or similar object. I am pretty sure that there are better ways of approaching this, but I am content with this method.
 

jttheclockman

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If you do not mind the odor and you can control the overspray, have at it. It is not like you are spraying a large project. It will be short bursts. Just do not spray near a open flame or the heating system.
 

Skie_M

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Good advice all round, some of which I'll echo ...


Don't spray ANYWHERE near any kind of ignition source.

Set up an old box fan with an old furnace filter nearby to PULL AIR AWAY from where you are working (through the filter). Even better, do your spraying right in front of that filter so that it catches all your overspray as well. Using the box to mask off the area surrounding is also good.

If you use a fine enough filter, you probably wont have to worry about using a mask, yourself, but it can't hurt!

And, of course, while handling things that contain wet paint ... gloves are just a sensible idea.

Try not to let the paint "glue" your tubes to anything that they are drying on ... wiping away any drips right away is probably best.

Don't forget to get pictures taken if you end up face-painted ... we all wanna see!
 

oldtoolsniper

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Iowa.
Good advice all round, some of which I'll echo ...


Don't spray ANYWHERE near any kind of ignition source.

Set up an old box fan with an old furnace filter nearby to PULL AIR AWAY from where you are working (through the filter). Even better, do your spraying right in front of that filter so that it catches all your overspray as well. Using the box to mask off the area surrounding is also good.

If you use a fine enough filter, you probably wont have to worry about using a mask, yourself, but it can't hurt!

And, of course, while handling things that contain wet paint ... gloves are just a sensible idea.

Try not to let the paint "glue" your tubes to anything that they are drying on ... wiping away any drips right away is probably best.

Don't forget to get pictures taken if you end up face-painted ... we all wanna see!



I'm pretty sure a box fan is not designed for drawing flammable aerosol vapors safely from a work space. Electric motors are a source of ignition unless they are designed specifically not to be. I'm betting the $15 box fan is not designed to be used in this fashion.

Water based paint should be no problem ignition wise. I don't think they make an animal like that yet in an aerosol can.

Get an airbrush and use water based.


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jttheclockman

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Good advice all round, some of which I'll echo ...


Don't spray ANYWHERE near any kind of ignition source.

Set up an old box fan with an old furnace filter nearby to PULL AIR AWAY from where you are working (through the filter). Even better, do your spraying right in front of that filter so that it catches all your overspray as well. Using the box to mask off the area surrounding is also good.

If you use a fine enough filter, you probably wont have to worry about using a mask, yourself, but it can't hurt!

And, of course, while handling things that contain wet paint ... gloves are just a sensible idea.

Try not to let the paint "glue" your tubes to anything that they are drying on ... wiping away any drips right away is probably best.

Don't forget to get pictures taken if you end up face-painted ... we all wanna see!



I'm pretty sure a box fan is not designed for drawing flammable aerosol vapors safely from a work space. Electric motors are a source of ignition unless they are designed specifically not to be. I'm betting the $15 box fan is not designed to be used in this fashion.

Water based paint should be no problem ignition wise. I don't think they make an animal like that yet in an aerosol can.

Get an airbrush and use water based.


Sent from my iPad using Penturners.org mobile app


They certainly do. lots of companies sell them.

www.walmart.com/ip/Liquitex-Water-B...edirectid=14832065344813164295310080301008005
 

oldtoolsniper

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Location
Iowa.
Good advice all round, some of which I'll echo ...


Don't spray ANYWHERE near any kind of ignition source.

Set up an old box fan with an old furnace filter nearby to PULL AIR AWAY from where you are working (through the filter). Even better, do your spraying right in front of that filter so that it catches all your overspray as well. Using the box to mask off the area surrounding is also good.

If you use a fine enough filter, you probably wont have to worry about using a mask, yourself, but it can't hurt!

And, of course, while handling things that contain wet paint ... gloves are just a sensible idea.

Try not to let the paint "glue" your tubes to anything that they are drying on ... wiping away any drips right away is probably best.

Don't forget to get pictures taken if you end up face-painted ... we all wanna see!



I'm pretty sure a box fan is not designed for drawing flammable aerosol vapors safely from a work space. Electric motors are a source of ignition unless they are designed specifically not to be. I'm betting the $15 box fan is not designed to be used in this fashion.

Water based paint should be no problem ignition wise. I don't think they make an animal like that yet in an aerosol can.

Get an airbrush and use water based.


Sent from my iPad using Penturners.org mobile app


They certainly do. lots of companies sell them.

www.walmart.com/ip/Liquitex-Water-B...edirectid=14832065344813164295310080301008005

Perhaps a better way to say it is a non-flammable aerosol can of spray paint.

MSDS states this is flammable, the paint may not be but the propellant is.

https://www.liquitex.com/uploadedFiles/Liquitex Spray MSDS.pdf



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Last edited:

jttheclockman

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NJ, USA.
Good advice all round, some of which I'll echo ...


Don't spray ANYWHERE near any kind of ignition source.

Set up an old box fan with an old furnace filter nearby to PULL AIR AWAY from where you are working (through the filter). Even better, do your spraying right in front of that filter so that it catches all your overspray as well. Using the box to mask off the area surrounding is also good.

If you use a fine enough filter, you probably wont have to worry about using a mask, yourself, but it can't hurt!

And, of course, while handling things that contain wet paint ... gloves are just a sensible idea.

Try not to let the paint "glue" your tubes to anything that they are drying on ... wiping away any drips right away is probably best.

Don't forget to get pictures taken if you end up face-painted ... we all wanna see!



I'm pretty sure a box fan is not designed for drawing flammable aerosol vapors safely from a work space. Electric motors are a source of ignition unless they are designed specifically not to be. I'm betting the $15 box fan is not designed to be used in this fashion.

Water based paint should be no problem ignition wise. I don't think they make an animal like that yet in an aerosol can.

Get an airbrush and use water based.


Sent from my iPad using Penturners.org mobile app


They certainly do. lots of companies sell them.

www.walmart.com/ip/Liquitex-Water-B...edirectid=14832065344813164295310080301008005

Perhaps a better way to say it is a non-flammable aerosol can of spray paint.

MSDS states this is flammable, the paint may not be but the propellant is.

https://www.liquitex.com/uploadedFiles/Liquitex Spray MSDS.pdf



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True:)
 

Skie_M

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Lawton, Ok
Well, if you have some decent water based paint to use that is low on odor or odorless, get yourself a can of Preval and spray away to your heart's content.


Preval is a multi-spray dispenser that contains compressed air ... no solvents, no flammables. Also comes fairly cheap. Wash the glass container out when you're done with that color, or just cap it and save the rest for later use ... you can also get extra containers with caps as well as dispensers with or without attached containers.
 

oldtoolsniper

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Location
Iowa.
Well, if you have some decent water based paint to use that is low on odor or odorless, get yourself a can of Preval and spray away to your heart's content.


Preval is a multi-spray dispenser that contains compressed air ... no solvents, no flammables. Also comes fairly cheap. Wash the glass container out when you're done with that color, or just cap it and save the rest for later use ... you can also get extra containers with caps as well as dispensers with or without attached containers.



Skie,
That's correct and I did it that way for a few cans, the expense is what got me to switch to the airbrush. If you own a compressor then it's big enough for an airbrush. You can spray about anything through them if you can thin it. Most of your 99 cent craft paints work well. I spray stain and dye too.

It's as easy as spray painting but you can afford a lot more colors for a lot less money than buying cans at 3 bucks and up for one color. You can mix colors too.

First one is a leather case I made. Water based dye from an airbrush

Second are some lures I rehabbed with water based airbrush paint.

057b452d5d014f8aaf7482d1711a099b.jpg
62326376516143bf0a89198c1007e00d.jpg



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Last edited:

Skie_M

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Lawton, Ok
.... I soo need to get me some of your lures ....

Do you also make deep diving rattletraps?


Anyways, I suggested the Preval, because it's very easy to use and doesn't require you to already have an airbrush setup or a compressor ...

With normal usage (say 4 - 5 pen kits a week) one can should last more than a month! :)
 

oldtoolsniper

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Iowa.
.... I soo need to get me some of your lures ....

Do you also make deep diving rattletraps?


Anyways, I suggested the Preval, because it's very easy to use and doesn't require you to already have an airbrush setup or a compressor ...

With normal usage (say 4 - 5 pen kits a week) one can should last more than a month! :)



I agree 100%. The thing that scared me away from an airbrush for years was all of the Vodoo that is out there regarding them. I got my first one at hobby Lobby with a coupon for $35-40 and now have six or eight of them. I only need one but I'm a tool hoarder so when I find them in the thrift store they come home with me.. I've even sprayed thinned contact adhesive through one. Any compressor no matter the size will run one. We are talking 20 psi give or take.

Water based paint means water to clean up. I rinse them out, run some windex through them and they sit waiting for the next go.

As for the lures I buy whatever is on clearance, scuff sand them and re-paint them all sorts of weird. No skill required, they are all ready fish shaped objects so you just squirt paint on them. No matter what, they are still fish shaped.

I've made some wooden ones and that's a whole other kind involvement. Wood floats only one way. Drop a dowel in water and the same side will come to the top. Start cutting off wood and that side may no longer float up. Fish don't care if the lure swims all nuts but the guy on the rod does. In my opinion that's why they are all plastic for the most part now. Rapalas float correctly because the hooks and the plastic bill is a ballast that over powers the balsa wood. Take that all off and it may very well float belly up.




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Skie_M

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When making your wooden lures, you need to add ballast yourself to ensure that it floats the right way up, so that it dives and swims properly underwater.

To do this, most guys drill a small series of holes that get sealed later after they get the balance they need ... and put small lead weights into the holes temporarily secured with tape till they find that balance. Typically split shot or the large lead fishing wire that's about 1/4" diameter. Some guys just melt down old lead fishing lures and slowly pour it into a pot of water to get little BB sized lead shot.
 

oldtoolsniper

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Location
Iowa.
When making your wooden lures, you need to add ballast yourself to ensure that it floats the right way up, so that it dives and swims properly underwater.

To do this, most guys drill a small series of holes that get sealed later after they get the balance they need ... and put small lead weights into the holes temporarily secured with tape till they find that balance. Typically split shot or the large lead fishing wire that's about 1/4" diameter. Some guys just melt down old lead fishing lures and slowly pour it into a pot of water to get little BB sized lead shot.



I went that route too. I cast my own bullets and jig heads. I have a plumber friend that has literally given me about two tons of lead. There is a lot of time involved in making a wooden lure that works. I get why companies don't use wood much anymore. I also get why a good Musky Lure starts out in the $20 range and goes up.

My brother restores pianos. Each key on a good old piano is balanced. They used lead to balance the keys and a large percentage of the keys have round lead slugs in them. Looks like short sections of cut off lead rod. All sorts of weights in one keyboard. The early turn of the century pianos often had mammoth tusk keys on them. Real thin veneer or ivories as they are called. There are also celluloid keys out there too, flame testing will tell you if it's tusk or celluloid real fast. If you are brave enough to do it there are free pianos out there. Most of the time folks just want them gone. If it's a player piano look under the hood, many of those have hundreds of lead tubes that feed the action.

I would never make wood lures to sell. The time involved would make them very expensive lures. I do enjoy making them for friends and family. It's the same with pens. Never sold one and doubt I ever would I just enjoy the tinkering.

I love fishing but I do not like fish or seafood at all. I can't even say I get food from my hobby because I won't eat it no matter how good
people tell me it is.

Lead slugs for balancing keys.

9478062aa0ff4a3318715e8e78c98f9d.jpg




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Paso Robles ca.
painting blanks

It's too cold to go outside and spray paint the inside of my blanks. So I'm thinking about doing it downstairs in the basement...

Can I just stick the blanks in a box and spray away, or do I need to do something else?

Mike...
You can do it in the home if you don't get cought.
I hang mine on a wire in the shop to paint the outside then after they dry I glue them in the tubes the paint the inside. sug. ! ware s rubber glove when painting to inside.
 

bpgoldo

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Guys....wow, ease up on the technology. How's about a bottle of model paint and a Q-Tip. Never heard of Q-Tip explosions....quick and cheap (my nick-name). Just don't stick it in your ear!
 

jttheclockman

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Guys....wow, ease up on the technology. How's about a bottle of model paint and a Q-Tip. Never heard of Q-Tip explosions....quick and cheap (my nick-name). Just don't stick it in your ear!


It is done many ways and the q-tip is just another way. When you spray you do not get runs from strokes. It is an even coating. Really it does not take much spraying. A quick short burst and you may have to do a couple coats but it is very easy to do a kid can do it and it has been proven by the kids contests run here. :):)
 

oldtoolsniper

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Guys....wow, ease up on the technology. How's about a bottle of model paint and a Q-Tip. Never heard of Q-Tip explosions....quick and cheap (my nick-name). Just don't stick it in your ear!



What's the fun in that, after all I'm saving money on pens by spending a couple hundred bucks to make a $1.298 slimline!


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