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Old 01-18-2015, 06:07 PM   #11 (permalink)
Join Date: Sep 2014
Location: Montgomery, Texas
Posts: 7
Photos: 1


Originally Posted by robutacion View Post
Well, before I would say anything, I decided to have a look at PSI's item # and see what they were selling and what I found was this.

*- First of all, I don't like to see the same high grade blank, copied 4 times to exemplify/demonstrated what the customer will receive, is just unnecessary that PSI uses such tactics to misconceive potential buyers, particularly those with less knowledge of woods, that is just a nono...!

*- They say that, the Olive wood is Spanish and I wonder why, would people in the USA import Olive wood from Spain or Italy, when they have an great abundance of Olive wood in California...??? That I would like to know...!

*- Why is the Olive wood waxed...??? dry Olive wood doesn't require waxing, wax can be used on dry Olive wood to enhance the colours but that, is generally only done at one of the faces. Olive wood that is half way through its drying process, should have its end grain waxed to prevent cracking however, green Olive wood when fully waxed, will behave a lot better but, that wood will take many years to dry, while fully sealed with a heavy coat of wax. This process is common when companies process green woods in a form of many blanks sizes, some quite large, this is done to stop the wood to dry and therefore, crack and so all sorts of crazy things but this wood when sold, should be CLEARLY identified/marked as "GREEN", any wood above 20% moisture is considered green, most woods are considered dry at 10% moisture, Olive wood will always read higher MC (Moisture content) due to the natural oils, anything up to 14% MC is safe to use.

From what I read from your comments, you have used Olive wood that is not yet dry and safe to use, it may not be green, that would read 39% MC on common 2 pin MC gauges we all use (most of us...!)

How do you know if the wood is green or not yet dried sufficiently to use...???

If you are buying the wood, fully and heavily waxed wood, is certainly the first indicator, weight can be another factor, some woods are heavier than others, Olive wood is always heavy but very heavy when not dry...!

The first line of defence would be to acquire one of those inexpensive MC gauges, such as these.

If you are going somewhere to buy wood, take the gauge with you, if you see something you like that doesn't seem dry, stick the gauge in the wood, soon you will know how dry/yet it is.

If you are buying online, make sure you read the info about the wood, if you see nothing in regards to the wood dryness, ask for confirmation before you buy. If you are told is dry and when you get it and work it, if happens that the wood is not dry and pens start to crack, simply contact your supplier, make your complaint and request the refund/replacement of the blanks and the kits you have used on those blanks, do not accept your bad luck, is not your bad luck to start with, you simply have been mislead and should be compensated, period...!

Make sure, you read the fine print of the item description, sometimes unscrupulous sellers, tend to make it almost invisible to see but when you complain, you will be told that, all the information was there...!

I know that, your problem is with a not dried pack of Olive wood blanks however, what I just said, is applicable with any sort of woods...!

There is nothing else you can do with those pens/barrels that you made from that wood, if the tubes and kit components are to be saved, you need to pull those pens appart and turn the wood off the tubes and start again...!

Hope this serves as a lesson to you...!

Best of luck,


Thanks for all of the good information. I have just placed an order for a 2 pin moisture meter. I also want to thank you for the advice about the wood. I won't make this mistake again.

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Old 02-08-2015, 04:06 PM   #12 (permalink)
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: Israel
Posts: 13
Photos: 0


I bought some 200 blanks of BOW direct from a retailer working out of bet(h)lehem, just outside of jerusalem, Israel. Living about 30km from Jerusalem I am in a great position to get my supplies from the local wood yards, and not after it has travelled several thousands of miles.
I have never had a pen crack with this olive wood, it is certainly dry, and the daytime temperatures in those workshops where they cut it, is an average of 100deg., so any moisture leaves quite fast.
I finish in CA, 5 - 10 coats.

By the way what do you pay for your olivewood blanks. My last purchase was US$1.50 per 3/4 x 3/4 x 6 blank. When i said i wanted 200, then the price dropped to $1.

happy turning

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Old 02-08-2015, 09:49 PM   #13 (permalink)
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Join Date: Aug 2008
Location: Central Michigan
Posts: 420
Photos: 0


You are getting them at a great price. I pay between $3 and $5 for the Bethlehem Olivewood I buy. But you are a lot closer to the blanks' source than I am.
Seven days without turning makes one weak.
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Old 02-08-2015, 10:17 PM   #14 (permalink)
Join Date: Nov 2014
Location: Lakewood, NJ 08701
Posts: 15
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I am going to be in Israel soon. Where can I get these blanks. Thanks.
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