Spliting Wood

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GregMuller

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I am having a hard time trying to turn Penn State Classic Roller pen. In the instructions it says to remove 1/8 of the wood down to the tube at one end. Twice I have split the wood while close to the brass tube. Can anyone give me any suggestions to avoid this.
 
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Efletche

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Most woods need to be checked and stabilized as you turn. Stop frequently and look and see if there are any spots of tear out or gaps. If there are, use some CA glue to fill in the pores. This will harden that area of wood and make it less likely to split and tear out. Key is to stabilize often.
 

Scott

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Hi Greg,

I also use a thin parting tool. Most of the cataloges have thin parting tools now. I think the one by Chris Stott is representative of many of them.

But, a thicker parting tool should still work. Two things to look for - keep the tool sharp, and keep the speed up on the lathe. Speed can often (not always) be a penturners friend!

Scott.
 

wayneis

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I'll echo Scott's advice on having a sharp parting tool, if you cannot shave with it its probably not sharp enough and will lead to problems. Many turners have also made their own parting tool using a screw driver that they can live with out. Just grind the end down to the thickness with a sharp flat point.

Wayne
 

Daniel

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I would agree with the sharp tool advice, speed is also good. I have also experienced what you describe when not keeping the parting tool at the right angle to the wood. this allows it to dig in wather than shave off the wood. if youa r like me the tendancy to drop the tip of the tool down as the cut gets deeper is strong.
 
G

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Is there glue residue on the tube below the chip out?
I've experienced this a couple of times and noted there was a lack of glue beneath the section that had to be parted off.
I try to glue from the centers out. I use medium or thick CA depending on the wood and have very few blowouts.
I have even parted off corn cobs for custom bands without any mishaps.
Sharp tools help too plus a prayer if so inclined.
 
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