I am new to penturning, at under ten pens, so I though I would try to get some expert advice about a problem that I ran into. I wanted to make a pencil for myself to use at work. I made it from a standard slimline kit with tulip wood. I left the barrel a little larger than standard, sanded from 180 to 1000 grit in small steps. I sanded with the lathe on and then by hand along the grain at each grit. I then used EEE Ultrashine and finished with Shellawax liquid. Everything looked smooth and shiny for a while. But, after two weeks of carrying it in my pocket the grain has kind of opened up and the surface is not perfectly smooth anymore. This is ok for my use, but I am getting ready to try and make several pens for Christmas gifts and I want the finish to be really nice. Did I finish this incorrectly, or was it a poor choice of final finish, or just silly to carry the thing in my pocket? Thanks everyone.
So so finish
- Thread starter petemoss
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ilikewood
Member
Hey Pete,
First of all, welcome to the penturners group.
Most friction finishes will wear off quite rapidly. If you don't want the work of trying to learn new finishes right away, try using superglue to seal the wood before your finish. Just go down to the local supermarket and get some cheap Superglue (CA). After you sand, soak the wood with CA and then resand again. Then finish like you did before. It will add a little bit of time before it wears off. If you want a very long lasting finish, try a complete CA finish or laquer. There is a tutorial on these on the home page. Good luck!
First of all, welcome to the penturners group.
Most friction finishes will wear off quite rapidly. If you don't want the work of trying to learn new finishes right away, try using superglue to seal the wood before your finish. Just go down to the local supermarket and get some cheap Superglue (CA). After you sand, soak the wood with CA and then resand again. Then finish like you did before. It will add a little bit of time before it wears off. If you want a very long lasting finish, try a complete CA finish or laquer. There is a tutorial on these on the home page. Good luck!
William Young
Member
Pete;
I am also new at this pen turning but I have not tried the CA glue trick yet but I probably will some time. Nevertheless my finish seems to be standing up good so far and it may be that I am putting a deeper build of friction polish on mine. I sand the same as you , then the EEE step like you but then I apply first the brown stick Hut friction polish and friction buff it, then the white stick Hut friction polish which gives it a real nice shine but then I continue with two successive coats of Mylands High Build Friction polish and that really brings it to life. When I see the reflection of my flourescent light tubes glaring back at me from the pen, I know I have got the shine to where I want it.
Like I said, I am also a beginner and I am trying different things but so far this seems to be working out pretty good for me. Time will tell how long this finish will last.
Good luck with your pen turning. I'm having a blast doing this as a change from other forms of woodworking.
W.Y.
I am also new at this pen turning but I have not tried the CA glue trick yet but I probably will some time. Nevertheless my finish seems to be standing up good so far and it may be that I am putting a deeper build of friction polish on mine. I sand the same as you , then the EEE step like you but then I apply first the brown stick Hut friction polish and friction buff it, then the white stick Hut friction polish which gives it a real nice shine but then I continue with two successive coats of Mylands High Build Friction polish and that really brings it to life. When I see the reflection of my flourescent light tubes glaring back at me from the pen, I know I have got the shine to where I want it.
Like I said, I am also a beginner and I am trying different things but so far this seems to be working out pretty good for me. Time will tell how long this finish will last.
Good luck with your pen turning. I'm having a blast doing this as a change from other forms of woodworking.
W.Y.
William Young
Member
Bill in Idaho.
You mentioned the CA and laquer finishing on the home page. I went there and read about the CA but I can't find the article on laquer. I have lots of both high gloss NG laquer and laquer sealer that I used to spray on acoustic guitars when I was building and restoring them.. Would that work? I would be very interested in learning more about the laquer finish for pens . Does it get applied while still on the lathe or does it require taking it off several times between coats ., etc.
W.Y.
You mentioned the CA and laquer finishing on the home page. I went there and read about the CA but I can't find the article on laquer. I have lots of both high gloss NG laquer and laquer sealer that I used to spray on acoustic guitars when I was building and restoring them.. Would that work? I would be very interested in learning more about the laquer finish for pens . Does it get applied while still on the lathe or does it require taking it off several times between coats ., etc.
W.Y.
bplatt
Member
I had the same problem, well not really problem, with a pen that I made for my everyday use. The shellawax wore off in a few days leaving me with just a matte looking wooden pen. Although not as shiny as some that I have done with CA, I like the softer feel of the wood in my hand.
My current finishing technique is to seal with waterlox sealer, then 3 coats of waterlox high gloss, then friction polish. Leaves a long lasting durable finish. I apply the sealer wit hthe lathe off. I just spin the lathe by hand as I wipe on. Then let it dry over night. I have several mandrels so I can work on several at once. Then I apply the high gloss with the late on, the spinning helps to dry the finish. After then drying over night, I then polish the finish with EEE and then crystal coat.
Bruce
My current finishing technique is to seal with waterlox sealer, then 3 coats of waterlox high gloss, then friction polish. Leaves a long lasting durable finish. I apply the sealer wit hthe lathe off. I just spin the lathe by hand as I wipe on. Then let it dry over night. I have several mandrels so I can work on several at once. Then I apply the high gloss with the late on, the spinning helps to dry the finish. After then drying over night, I then polish the finish with EEE and then crystal coat.
Bruce
ilikewood
Member
Sorry...mistated that lacquer was on home page. CA is.
You will get a lot of arguments about what finish is easier, but I personally like lacquer the best. There are many types: It can be sprayed on, painted on, dipped, etc.
As far as the guitar finish, I really don't know. You'll just have to try it. Most guitar finishes are pretty hard and durable, so it might just work fine.
I have tried spraying the lacquer on, but my results were pretty patchy. Of course, I didn't have the right super fine spray either. I use the PSI dip finish (lacquer) and cut it about 50% with lacquer thinner. I then dip my blanks and hang to dry. The thinning keeps the dreaded "ring" from forming on the bottom. I also turn the blank over and repeat the dipping. It dries in about 15 to 20 minutes, so it is easy to put several coats on.
NOTE: if you oil your blanks (BLO, Danish, etc), you must wait at least 3 days before your lacquer!! It will look great for about a week and then will get very soft and start coming off!!
You will get a lot of arguments about what finish is easier, but I personally like lacquer the best. There are many types: It can be sprayed on, painted on, dipped, etc.
As far as the guitar finish, I really don't know. You'll just have to try it. Most guitar finishes are pretty hard and durable, so it might just work fine.
I have tried spraying the lacquer on, but my results were pretty patchy. Of course, I didn't have the right super fine spray either. I use the PSI dip finish (lacquer) and cut it about 50% with lacquer thinner. I then dip my blanks and hang to dry. The thinning keeps the dreaded "ring" from forming on the bottom. I also turn the blank over and repeat the dipping. It dries in about 15 to 20 minutes, so it is easy to put several coats on.
NOTE: if you oil your blanks (BLO, Danish, etc), you must wait at least 3 days before your lacquer!! It will look great for about a week and then will get very soft and start coming off!!
Pete,
I'm honored that my CA finishing article is on the home page here, and it is still my choice of finish, for shine as well as durability. However, I've been pleased with a lacquer finish, too, but it can be difficult to get a really good, even shine. Perhaps because I've done so many pens with a CA finish, the CA finish might seem easier to me. However, I think with a little work the lacquer can be just as nice. If I remember correctly, lacquer is not as hard as CA, and can scratch a little easier.
I did quite a few pens last year with lacquer. I first finished sanding the pen, applied a cellulose sanding sealer while on the lathe, and then removed them and sprayed the Deft high gloss on, while rotating on an old mandrel, by hand (off of the lathe.) I applied three coats, then sanded with 0000 steel wool, then finally buffed with my wheels. I couldn't tell a difference in the appearance of the lacquer and CA, but the lacquer pens felt more like plastic, which I didn't like as well.
I'm honored that my CA finishing article is on the home page here, and it is still my choice of finish, for shine as well as durability. However, I've been pleased with a lacquer finish, too, but it can be difficult to get a really good, even shine. Perhaps because I've done so many pens with a CA finish, the CA finish might seem easier to me. However, I think with a little work the lacquer can be just as nice. If I remember correctly, lacquer is not as hard as CA, and can scratch a little easier.
I did quite a few pens last year with lacquer. I first finished sanding the pen, applied a cellulose sanding sealer while on the lathe, and then removed them and sprayed the Deft high gloss on, while rotating on an old mandrel, by hand (off of the lathe.) I applied three coats, then sanded with 0000 steel wool, then finally buffed with my wheels. I couldn't tell a difference in the appearance of the lacquer and CA, but the lacquer pens felt more like plastic, which I didn't like as well.
Mac In Oak Ridge
Member
I am new to this pen thing also. I cannot see a person who is making pens for sale going through all the various methods that require applying a product, letting it sit overnight, applying another product and letting that sit. All before you can handle the pen and take it off the mandril.
I also can see that if you are selling pens and want repete orders that you need a finish that will hold up for some time more than a week or two. You are not going to sell very many pens for $50 if the finish wears off and the pens look old and used in a few weeks.
You would need a quick finishing method that is durable. What is it?
I also can see that if you are selling pens and want repete orders that you need a finish that will hold up for some time more than a week or two. You are not going to sell very many pens for $50 if the finish wears off and the pens look old and used in a few weeks.
You would need a quick finishing method that is durable. What is it?
ilikewood
Member
Who lets them sit? I take my blanks off the mandrel (no oiling) and then dip them, let them sit 15 minutes, turn them over and dip them again. After about an hour I assemble and I'm off. This is by far the easiest finish.
And opinions can be kind of funny. I personally think a CA finish is more like plastic than lacquer!! [
] (and yes it is just a slight tad softer than CA)
And opinions can be kind of funny. I personally think a CA finish is more like plastic than lacquer!! [
] (and yes it is just a slight tad softer than CA)Mac In Oak Ridge
Member
"I take my blanks off the mandrel (no oiling) and then dip them, let them sit 15 minutes, turn them over and dip them again. After about an hour I assemble and I'm off."
Bill,
You dip them? Like a little wire hook or something? Hang on a line till dry? Hold them some other way?
I looked at the photos you have posted here. Are all of those pens finished by this method? The olive wood? Do you do anything special for oily wood?
Mac
Bill,
You dip them? Like a little wire hook or something? Hang on a line till dry? Hold them some other way?
I looked at the photos you have posted here. Are all of those pens finished by this method? The olive wood? Do you do anything special for oily wood?
Mac
bplatt
Member
I have a dozen homemade mandrels, ok not homemade. I made them in the machine shop at work. I can make pens much faster as I make them in groups of 12, When everything is set up in this fashion it goes quickly. It is quicker on the set ups to move the parts through together.
On the other hand if it becomes too much of a chore to make pens just to sell them then I will quit. Trying desperatley not to let my relaxation hobby become a source of stress.
On the other hand if it becomes too much of a chore to make pens just to sell them then I will quit. Trying desperatley not to let my relaxation hobby become a source of stress.
ilikewood
Member
Your right on Mac. I use a small piece or copper wire with a couple of bends at the end to keep the blank on it. After dipping, I then bend the wire to make a hook and hang them to dry. One little thing I do to remove the excess lacquer is to "helecopter" them around after I dip them (kind of like the ancient sling shot). I have a little area in my shop where I can do this and not worry about a few drops of lacquer getting on the floor or wall.
Some people spray their turned blanks. I don't have a good enough spray setup to do this, but I have read where a few guys have had great success with it. There are a few other guys that are working with some other finishes. I think Wayne S (wayneis) is using a couple new types. I can't remember what they are, but if he is reading this maybe he will give us an update.[]
Forgot: I haven't had problems with naturally oily woods with my finishes...only when I add an oil such as BLO or Danish. Some of the naturally oily woods (eg. lignum vitae, olive, vera) don't even need a finish sometimes. A good burnish and buff can make these woods just gleam!
Some people spray their turned blanks. I don't have a good enough spray setup to do this, but I have read where a few guys have had great success with it. There are a few other guys that are working with some other finishes. I think Wayne S (wayneis) is using a couple new types. I can't remember what they are, but if he is reading this maybe he will give us an update.[
]Forgot: I haven't had problems with naturally oily woods with my finishes...only when I add an oil such as BLO or Danish. Some of the naturally oily woods (eg. lignum vitae, olive, vera) don't even need a finish sometimes. A good burnish and buff can make these woods just gleam!
Here's a link to my gallery on the Penmaker's Guild. There are some pictures, although not very good ones, that show both some CA finishes and some lacquer finishes. The keychain item, done with lacquer, has a finish that truly looks like a coat of glass.
http://www.turtlewoodworks.com/pmggallery/wilsonggal1.htm
http://www.turtlewoodworks.com/pmggallery/wilsonggal1.htm
ilikewood
Member
The three pens together give an excellent comparison of the two finishes...excellent job. Definitely hard to tell apart if that is even possible.
Did you spray your lacquer or brush or dip? All of mine in my album are dipped, but I am always looking for the most perfect finish (if that is possible when you are judging your own work)
Did you spray your lacquer or brush or dip? All of mine in my album are dipped, but I am always looking for the most perfect finish (if that is possible when you are judging your own work)
Mac In Oak Ridge
Member
I checked out your link, Greg. Beautiful work. You are not by chance in the Greensboro, Winston-Salem, High Point area are you?
Mac
Mac
epson
Member
I have made over one hundred pens for sale over the last two years. I have two pens come back because of bad mechanisms, but the finish still looked great. I use the PSI liquid Friction Polish and Sealer. The PSI "Gloss Sealer" is put on a cloth or one of the "scots" paper rags in a box about the size of a dime with the lathe set at medium speed. You must keep the paper moving back and forth at all times. The paper should be folded in sixths. When the paper starts to get warm you should keep moving the rag for about another ten seconds then remove the rag. The finish will be warm and dry ready for the the next coat. Two coats are recommended. The sealer is a high grade of shalack, so any finish can go over it.
The next step is to apply the "Super Gloss Formula" or the "Semi Gloss Formula". This is a long wearing lacquer. This is applied in the same manner as the sealer with at least two coats. I do not use a wax, because it will wear off quickly. With the lacquer, the pen will look the same years later as it does today, and I think that is what costumers want. I can supply additional information if anybody wants. I have tried all the finishing techniques.
The next step is to apply the "Super Gloss Formula" or the "Semi Gloss Formula". This is a long wearing lacquer. This is applied in the same manner as the sealer with at least two coats. I do not use a wax, because it will wear off quickly. With the lacquer, the pen will look the same years later as it does today, and I think that is what costumers want. I can supply additional information if anybody wants. I have tried all the finishing techniques.
Tom McMillan
Member
Hi Epson (Is that your name??) Seems we all have our own methods for a final finish, and many of us are still looking for what works best. Yours sounds likes it works well for you. Would love to see some of your pens with that finish!!!
Tom McMillan
Tom McMillan
epson
Member
I would like to submit photos of my work. How do I do this. I have the digital pictures on my computer in a JPEG file? I see some people have photo albums.
Simply click on this link http://www.penturners.org/forum/photo_album.asp and follow the instructions. Good lucka dn we can't wait to see your work!
its_virgil
Member
Everybody wants a quick finish that lasts forever, especially new penturners. Well folks, it just doesn't happen. The friction polishes, sticks, highbuilds, lowbuilds, magic this and magic that are all made from beeswax and/or shellac. These two finished will not last and will react with oils and moisture from out bodies and the finish will dull and darken. As for me there are two choices...CA and lacquer. There are lots of CA finishing instructions flying aroung. I have one of Greg Wilson's pens and can say that it is the nicest finish I've seen on a pen and I've seen lots of other's pens. Greg taught me to do the CA finish and I don't use anything else except lacquer. I CA finish everything; antler, plastics, stabilized and non. I also do lacquer. I spray it on but it takes time. I follow Greg's directions. I also mix deft 50-50 with lacquer thinner, apply it on lateh with t-shirt material, buff it dry, apply 3 or 4 coats this way, let it dry overnight and buff on a buffer. So, I don;t intend to annoy anyone but get rid of the sticks and friction plishes and learn to do a CA finish or lacquer and you might just find your pens looking better and the finish lasting longer. Just my opinion and it is worth exactly what you paid for it...Nothing...but these two finished work for me and for Greg and many others. Right Greg! Now, enjoy your penturning and penfinishing.
Do a good turn daily!
Don
Do a good turn daily!
Don
William Young
Member
Don;
I appreciate your comments about finishing. I have tried CA without much success and before I try again, I would like to try laquer. I found that the guitar laquer I have is very old and probably past it's shelf life. I tried dipping with it reduced by one half with laquer thinner but it did not get a shine.
I am familiar with the Deft brand you mention but I would have to buy some . . I presume you use the high gloss version. I was interested to see that you apply it right on the lathe and buff it dry in 3 or 4 coats. Do you apply it with the wood spinning and then wait for it to dry between coats before buffing or do you put it on and buff it right away as done with friction polish ? Is the t-shirt material just for spreading it or do you let it build up heat as with friction polish methods. I would like to give the laquer a try but I would like to know what I'm doing before attempting it. Then , when you buff it next day on a buffer, do you apply something to the buffing wheel (if so what) or just use the plain cloth wheel.
W.Y.
I appreciate your comments about finishing. I have tried CA without much success and before I try again, I would like to try laquer. I found that the guitar laquer I have is very old and probably past it's shelf life. I tried dipping with it reduced by one half with laquer thinner but it did not get a shine.
I am familiar with the Deft brand you mention but I would have to buy some . . I presume you use the high gloss version. I was interested to see that you apply it right on the lathe and buff it dry in 3 or 4 coats. Do you apply it with the wood spinning and then wait for it to dry between coats before buffing or do you put it on and buff it right away as done with friction polish ? Is the t-shirt material just for spreading it or do you let it build up heat as with friction polish methods. I would like to give the laquer a try but I would like to know what I'm doing before attempting it. Then , when you buff it next day on a buffer, do you apply something to the buffing wheel (if so what) or just use the plain cloth wheel.
W.Y.
ilikewood
Member
Don is correct...CA and lacquer are the premium finishes of choice. In fact, I seal my woods with CA and resand before I lacquer. CA is an integral part of pen making!!
Friction finishes/shellac are a temporary finish...at least in my experience. Deft is a good choice for lacquers. The PSI dip finish is also extremely good for a lacquer (if cut correctly). I have applied lacquer on the lathe as well and have had good results. Don is also correct that there is no "30 Second" finish (at least I have never found it [])
Friction finishes/shellac are a temporary finish...at least in my experience. Deft is a good choice for lacquers. The PSI dip finish is also extremely good for a lacquer (if cut correctly). I have applied lacquer on the lathe as well and have had good results. Don is also correct that there is no "30 Second" finish (at least I have never found it [
])wayneis
Member
OK, now for my 10cents worth. What Bill was referring to is a Commercial grade poly that I have been using with a lot of success. I get it from Compliant Spray Systems. Their poly acts like a lacqure in that it dries quickly, I can put on several coats in just a few minutes. I also use their sanding sealer and to top off everything, I let it set overnight and then I buff it out with Meguires Mirror Glaze that I also purchased through them. What I like the most about it is that there is no smell or fumes. Sometimes the fumes from CA tend to make me sick so I've been looking for something else as good to replace it and I think that this is it. Beware, this is not off the shelf poly, that kind will not work the same. This is made for bar tops and has a very hard finish. The second thing is cost, they sell a starter package that includes one qt. sanding sealer, one qt. of poly and a rather large sample of their stains and you get to choose the color you want. Well, I've rambled enough for now. www.compliantspraysystems.com
Wayne
Wayne
Mac In Oak Ridge
Member
Wayne,
How are you applying the poly? Wipe, spray, other?
Mac
How are you applying the poly? Wipe, spray, other?
Mac
its_virgil
Member
William.
For a CA or lacquer finish I sand 220, 320 and seal with thin CA and sand off the CA with 220, 320, 400, 600, and 1500MM. I then apply thick CA/BLO following Greg Wilson's technique using BOUNTY paper towels...three coats...sand 400, 600, `1500MM and buff on wheels with Tripoli(brown jewelers rouge) and white jeweler's rouge.
For lacquer I use Deft and lacquer thinner 50-50. I suppose and brand lacquer will work. I apply it by dipping a small ball of t-shirt into the lacauer and touching it to the pen on lathe at slowest speed. I hold the material to the pen but do not build up heat as with crystal coat. The lacquer dries verr quickly. Apply 2,3,4 or as many coats as desired. Let is dry two day or so and then buff on wheels with the tripoli and white rouge. The longer the lacquer dries the harder it is.I think you should wait at least 2 days before buffing. I also do as Greg suggested and use deft spray lacquer but I wait 2 days or so before buffing.
If I need to get a pen finished in one day I use CA to finish. I like them both, and as Greg mentioned, side by side is is difficult to tell the two finished apart. they are both excellent.
Personally I lean toward CA/BLO because it works better for me. But I am practiciing on the lacquer, both spray anc can. Keep practicing and keep us informed on your progress.
Do a good turn daily!
For a CA or lacquer finish I sand 220, 320 and seal with thin CA and sand off the CA with 220, 320, 400, 600, and 1500MM. I then apply thick CA/BLO following Greg Wilson's technique using BOUNTY paper towels...three coats...sand 400, 600, `1500MM and buff on wheels with Tripoli(brown jewelers rouge) and white jeweler's rouge.
For lacquer I use Deft and lacquer thinner 50-50. I suppose and brand lacquer will work. I apply it by dipping a small ball of t-shirt into the lacauer and touching it to the pen on lathe at slowest speed. I hold the material to the pen but do not build up heat as with crystal coat. The lacquer dries verr quickly. Apply 2,3,4 or as many coats as desired. Let is dry two day or so and then buff on wheels with the tripoli and white rouge. The longer the lacquer dries the harder it is.I think you should wait at least 2 days before buffing. I also do as Greg suggested and use deft spray lacquer but I wait 2 days or so before buffing.
If I need to get a pen finished in one day I use CA to finish. I like them both, and as Greg mentioned, side by side is is difficult to tell the two finished apart. they are both excellent.
Personally I lean toward CA/BLO because it works better for me. But I am practiciing on the lacquer, both spray anc can. Keep practicing and keep us informed on your progress.
Do a good turn daily!
epson
Member
If you want to use the friction lacquer from PSI that I have described above, you can purchase it directly from the manufacture at a substantial savings. WWW.woodwriteltd.com
Queso
Member
Virgil,
Do you remove the parts from the mandrel while you let the lacquer dry? I'm interested in doing a better finish, but I'm doing a craft fair in a month, and need to turn more than one pen every two or three days to get ready.
Do you remove the parts from the mandrel while you let the lacquer dry? I'm interested in doing a better finish, but I'm doing a craft fair in a month, and need to turn more than one pen every two or three days to get ready.
The Turners Magic finish that PSI and WoodWright sell is also available from Berea Hardwoods... in fact they are offering it on special at $4.00 for a 8oz can.. see the link
http://hometown.aol.com/penkits/specialoffers.html
http://hometown.aol.com/penkits/specialoffers.html
William Young
Member
Wayne;
I beleive the product you mentioned is similar to a water base laquer that I have been using for a few years on other non turning woodworking projects I have done. It has all the properties of solvent based laquer and then some. It is a harder and more durable finish, it is sandable in 30 minutes (probably sooner spinning on a lathe) and re coatable every 10 to 15 minutes after initial coat with no more sanding. The first coat acts as a sealer as well. It has hardly any smell and spraying equipment (if used) cleans up in minutes with just water.
I am tempted to try this on a few pens. I only have semi gloss in my shop right now and I would want high gloss for pens . There are several distributors in USA for it and one in Canada where I get mine.
I am interested in the thoughts of the seasoned pen turners here as to whether this sounds like a good idea or not after reading the specifications of the product.
http://www.targetcoatings.com/products/coatings/oxford_spray_lacq.html
I have always used it as a spraying laquer for the bigger projects I have used it on but I would imagine that just a little on a rag and wiped across the turning blank would distribute it very evenly.
A spray booth is not required using this product as is the case (or should be) when using conventional laquers.
W.Y.
I beleive the product you mentioned is similar to a water base laquer that I have been using for a few years on other non turning woodworking projects I have done. It has all the properties of solvent based laquer and then some. It is a harder and more durable finish, it is sandable in 30 minutes (probably sooner spinning on a lathe) and re coatable every 10 to 15 minutes after initial coat with no more sanding. The first coat acts as a sealer as well. It has hardly any smell and spraying equipment (if used) cleans up in minutes with just water.
I am tempted to try this on a few pens. I only have semi gloss in my shop right now and I would want high gloss for pens . There are several distributors in USA for it and one in Canada where I get mine.
I am interested in the thoughts of the seasoned pen turners here as to whether this sounds like a good idea or not after reading the specifications of the product.
http://www.targetcoatings.com/products/coatings/oxford_spray_lacq.html
I have always used it as a spraying laquer for the bigger projects I have used it on but I would imagine that just a little on a rag and wiped across the turning blank would distribute it very evenly.
A spray booth is not required using this product as is the case (or should be) when using conventional laquers.
W.Y.
its_virgil
Member
Queso,
I usually take the pens off the mandrel and put them on 1/4" dowels glued into holes drilled in a base. I have 10 dowels on a 2x4 about 3" apart, drop the pen halves over the dowel and spray. If I am doing just two or three pens, I leave them on the mandrel...I have 5 mandrels with whick to work. Spray three or 4 coats and leave them for 2 or three days. I you do pens for craft shows yuou could have more than one "spray stand". Good luck. I think you'll like the lacquer or CA either one.
Do a good turn daily!
Don
I usually take the pens off the mandrel and put them on 1/4" dowels glued into holes drilled in a base. I have 10 dowels on a 2x4 about 3" apart, drop the pen halves over the dowel and spray. If I am doing just two or three pens, I leave them on the mandrel...I have 5 mandrels with whick to work. Spray three or 4 coats and leave them for 2 or three days. I you do pens for craft shows yuou could have more than one "spray stand". Good luck. I think you'll like the lacquer or CA either one.
Do a good turn daily!
Don
epson
Member
The PSI "Gloss Sealer" is a shelack and the "Super Gloss Formula" is a long wearing lacquer. This is applied in the same manner as the sealer with at least two coats. These coats dry instantly and can be be recoated with no wait time. In addition, assembly can be started immediately. The only problem is that the lacquer takes 72 hours to fully cure, so you can't engrave the pen until after 72 hours. The pen can be used immediately after assembly.
wayneis
Member
William it sure sounds close to me. I put it on just like CA with a paper towel. I use their sanding sealer first, one or two coats, then the poly. Put on a coat let it set for about no longer than five minutes then sand with MM from 4000 to 12,000. I put on three or four coats like this and then let it set up overnight. I then use Meguires Mirror Glaze compound to buff it out on the lathe with a piece of flannel cloth.
Wayne
Wayne
What were your results with the Target Coatings product?
William Young
Member
DCBluesman;
I think the product itself is fantastic. Application in a manner that suits me is another story. I have tried several methods now and the last one I did just tonight is going to be just great (I think) . I will know tomorrow when I assemble it. If the results are what I think they will be, I will describe my recent method of application later after I'm satisfied that it is the best way for my particular purposes..
W.Y.
I think the product itself is fantastic. Application in a manner that suits me is another story. I have tried several methods now and the last one I did just tonight is going to be just great (I think) . I will know tomorrow when I assemble it. If the results are what I think they will be, I will describe my recent method of application later after I'm satisfied that it is the best way for my particular purposes..
W.Y.
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