SNAKE WOOD

[JOEHILL7]

I WOULD LIKE TO TRY SOME SNAKEWOOD BUT I HAVE HEARD IT IS TRICKY TO TURN,
ANT INFO WOULD BE GREAT.
THANKS JEO

 

[leehljp]

Turning is not as tricky as keeping if from cracking after it is finished. Still you need to keep the chisel honed and sharp. In my opinion, I think a scraper chisel would be easier on wood that hard.

 

[ssajn]

I've made pens using snakewood and they cracked.
The last one I made I tried something different. I drilled a piece to make a Sierra, checked to make sure the tube fit, then let it sit for a month. When I checked it again the tube would not fit. the wood shrank that much. After re-drilling and finishing the pen it has not cracked - yet, it's been almost a year.
Drill slow using a sharp bit and avoid any heat buildup.

 

[Nickfff]

In my experience snakewood will usually crack. One method is to turn the barrel and then set it aside until it cracks then make a slurry (ca and sawdust) and help funnel it into the crack. Think of it as almost like an expansion joint -just like concrete : )

 

[rsjimenez]

I have never had a snakewood pen crack on me. I usually drill it, let it sit a week, re drill, glue tube, square, turn, finish with 2 coats thin CA, 4 coats Med. CA and MM to 12000.

 

[JerrySambrook]

Why do we, as penturners, typically have a problem with snakewood.
Yet, woodturners in general do not?

Is it because of the mixed media?

Just asking

 

[nativewooder]

I think that snakewood is super-sensitive to heat and forms micro-cracks due to heat. As the wood dries out more, the cracks open up and become more visible. Be advised, this information is worth exactly $0.02!

 

[tomas]

One of the first pens I turned was snakewood. It must have been my ignorance and inexperience, because I didn't have any problems with it and I really liked the look of it. So, later I tried some more snakewood (3 times) and it blew up every time. Now I have lots of snakewood slivers.

Tomas

 

[76winger]

I've only done Snakewood once and it had a very thin crack after sitting for about a month after turning. I was warned it would probably happen, so I put it aside to let it happen. Once done, I then filled with thin CA and re-finished. It came out quite well and barely noticible.

I like the thought of drilling and drying though, and will probably give that a go next time. I've used this technique with Ebony (which I hear cracks easily also) and had good results.

 

[PenWorks]

Why do we, as penturners, typically have a problem with snakewood.
Yet, woodturners in general do not?

Is it because of the mixed media?

Just asking

I think they have their issues as well. I have seen several PRS guitars with snakewood fret boards cracked.

I always keep two kinds of snakewood in stock. Snakewood that has cracked and snakewood that is going to crack :biggrin:

 

[bitshird]

I believe that by first allowing the bkank to acclimate to the shop 3 to 4 months, then CAREFULLY and slowly drilled Avoid heat at all cost, allow the blank to stabilize then after a month or so redrill and let it sit a week or two THEN glue it with Epoxy, Not CA and Not Gorilla glue, epoxy will move a bit with the work as it maintains it plasticity, Turn pen, but again avoid heat, I have a pen I bought the blank from Nolan almost 3 years ago and still looks good, no cracks.
CharlesH even turned a handle for a Woodchuck Pen Pro from Snake wood, BUT it has been in his shop for 8 years,

 

[JOEHILL7]

THANKS FOR THE GREAT INFO, ONE LAST QUESTION
HOW ABOUT STABALIZING SNAKEWOOD?
THANKS JOE