Snake skin blanks

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SS

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I just bought the snake skin blanks for an emperor kit and wanted to know if using a pen mill on the ends works as well as on wood blanks or if the resin casting is too brittle for the pen mill.

I also read on the A.S. web site that someone used a file to shape the blanks as he was having problems with the resin breaking when turning. Has anyone found a succesful method of turning these blanks down with low risk of fracturing them?
 
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YoYoSpin

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This may sound flippant, but the best answer IMHO is...there is no pat answer...practice is required.

I hear the same story over and over where someone tries something new once or twice, has a problem and gives up, or even worse, blames the tool/part/manufacturer/retailer...anyone or anything but their own lack of experience with that particular technique or process.

This frustration, apprehension and aggravations is totally avoidable if you'll approach these things with the idea that this is a skill based hobby and that practice is required to master any new technique.

So, my recommendation is that you buy or make some low-cost plain resin blanks...the most brittle you can find...and mill the ends, turn and finish them until you feel comfortable. Then tackle with confidence those expensive snakeskin blanks.
 

BRobbins629

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Don Ward (Its_Virgil) and I came up with this idea to practice on for just this purpose.

http://www.penturners.org/forum/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=22337
 

doddman70

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I have done 4 of these so far they do require a lot of care and patience to work with but as long as you follow the golden rule “sharp tools light cuts†you should be fine. I read the same thing about the guy who used a file to round them over and tried it, for me it did not work well. What I did was rounded the edges over on my sander first and then took my time with my skew and everyone has been fine. Check frequently for little air holes in the resin and fill with ca glue you’ll never even now they were there. Good luck and try to post a pic when you are finished I would love to see it on an emperor.

Shane
 

leehljp

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Originally posted by YoYoSpin
<br />This may sound flippant, but the best answer IMHO is...there is no pat answer...practice is required.

I hear the same story over and over where someone tries something new once or twice, has a problem and gives up, or even worse, blames the tool/part/manufacturer/retailer...anyone or anything but their own lack of experience with that particular technique or process.

This frustration, apprehension and aggravations is totally avoidable if you'll approach these things with the idea that this is a skill based hobby and that practice is required to master any new technique.

So, my recommendation is that you buy or make some low-cost plain resin blanks...the most brittle you can find...and mill the ends, turn and finish them until you feel comfortable. Then tackle with confidence those expensive snakeskin blanks.

Absolutely the most intelligent and wise reply that I have seen yet for pen making, for flat work, engine overhaul, and many other hobbies and interests. GREAT ADVICE! For the vast majority of people, skill comes with experience.

It has taken me two years to get to the point that I can do a CA finish flawlessly and predictably, and I have been doing flat work on an off since I started as a kid in the mid 50's. Lots of experience with different finishes, but CA was just different. I had to undo a lot of previous instinctive thinking to learn CA. IN the end, it came down to Experience for skill acquisition.


SS, I will also note that Casts such as in snake blanks are TOTALLY different from those of Trustone type, so "casts" come in different types with different turning characteristics for each kind.
 

edman2

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I also saw the idea of a file on the AS website. I bought a file and it worked for me. I used my belt sander to sand off the corners of the blank then used the file until I had the blank round and then used my skew to finish. As a new turner it gave me an extra edge of protection while I develop my skill with the skew. Now if I can learn to keep the corner of the skew out of the end of the blank I will be making progress.[:D] Oh well, it gives me practice with ca repairs. Sigh.
 

CaptG

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I sand the edges off with the belt sander and get the blank close to round for the lathe. Then I got to thinking (first sign of problems to follow[}:)]) that as easy as it sanded, why not use a strip of 40 grit and sand the blank down on the lathe (after removing edges on belt sander). It worked, and FAST. As I was looking at the blank that was almost to finished size and just waiting for me to do the finishing touches with a skew and then polish, (I was feeling pretty smug about how fast I was going to be able to make snakeskin pens[;)]) the blank split end to end right in front of my eyes. Seems that sanding that fast generates heat, a lot of it.[:(] Moral of the story, as implied in the above posts, sharp tools, LIGHT cuts, and take your time. I have since made a number of snakeskin pens that are really nice looking using the slower method.[:I]
 

ed4copies

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The best practice is the most difficult material. Either acrylester or Micapearl - they are both more brittle than other plastics.

I have never turned the snakeskins from AS or PSI, but I suspect this will prepare you for anything.

Good luck and remember, this is FUN!!!
 

ed4copies

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I have turned the tropical blanks from AS.

They are "different" but not really difficult. Could be the same as the skins.
 

Rmartin

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I had a problem with the first tropical el grande I made from Berea. I was turning too slow and that caused big chunks to fly off. So I tried the file method and it worked, but I have since gone back to using standard lathe tools with lathe on it's highest speed. I have had no problems, and in fact, I think they are the easiest pens to make.
 
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