SLIMLINE MANDREL SPACERS

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PenPal

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Canberra, A.C.T., Australia.
I use Stainless Steel Rod 8mm outside,6mm inside do your own conversion at purchase point.Drill the inside Dormer 6.3 mm marked actual 6.22(Never believe the markings)Cut to suit you make a dozen at a time.I use Stainless to lessen the chances of staining always there when you use Brasso on Corian with Brass spacers. Have fun and share rod puchase with friends,not sold in short lengths over the water this way. Peter

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samuel07

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Purcellville, Va, USA.
Let me see if I can translate.

He used stainless steel tubing not rod, drilled the inside out to 6.3mm and cuts to length and shares with friends[:)]

pwhay
you gotta speak clearly to us yanks!

thanks for the tip.
 

JimM

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Apr 12, 2007
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Location
Virginia, USA.
Originally posted by pwhay
<br />I use Stainless Steel Rod 8mm outside,6mm inside do your own conversion at purchase point.Drill the inside Dormer 6.3 mm marked actual 6.22(Never believe the markings)Cut to suit you make a dozen at a time.I use Stainless to lessen the chances of staining always there when you use Brasso on Corian with Brass spacers. Have fun and share rod puchase with friends,not sold in short lengths over the water this way. Peter

Peter,
Short lengths can be obtained (15cm to 30cm) of SS tubing of size you mention. However the 30cm price is over 11.00AUD not including shipping.

Not much difference in cost in solid SS, brass, cold roll steel, or SS tubing of appropriate size but the tubing will require less time to prepare.

I have not tried Brasso on Corian - just a micro polish useable on plexiglass. What grit do you take the Corian down to prior to using Brasso?

JimM
 

Mikey

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Nov 3, 2005
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Cleveland, OH, USA.
If you are going to use whatever for mandrel spacrs, why even buy anything? Just put a bunch of bushings on the mandrel.

Or, like I did, get a Beall and never need spacers again.[:D]
 

PenPal

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Canberra, A.C.T., Australia.
Jimm
I use a scew on the flat as a scraper for the final shape gives about 400 grit finish then 800 wet,gives a great finish,over here we would send a pic to show but not sure of the protocol,wet and dry then 1000 w&d,then 2000 w&d.Cleaning between grades then the tube brasso it is creamier and easier to use.Great you can buy short lengths and such a variety of materials so easily,would use my E Mail address and talk to you more in derail send me a PM with your home E Mail.

Mikey we must live on another planet here a collet chuck mandrel cost 29 our dollars it has a thread in the small end of the 2 Morse Taper to that I screw a threaded Rod(correct term at last) through the head stock with a turned brass sleeve and double nutted at the end.I turn half a pen at a time for accuracy,I use a removable sleeve with a snug fit in the tail stock live centre that sleeves about 1/2 inch on the end of the mandrel.I bought a Beal type Collet Chuck for my Taig Lathe cost 80 dollars and 20 dollars each collet size,I use bushings,or spacers to separate the beginning and end of the blank from the chisel,to give size and separation,again if you wish I will send you pics on your E Mail to explain bear in mind I am 73 yrs old,my use of english is maybe different to yours but be in no doubt my desire to share my experience in what I understand is IAP ie International.I long ago dedicated a Vicmarc VL100 for pens,I have stayed with Slimlines purposely for economy and purpose.

Regards Peter
 

JimM

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Apr 12, 2007
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Virginia, USA.
Originally posted by Rifleman1776
<br />Friends in two countries separated by a common language. Waddhesay?

Wenn es eine Sache gibt, die ich in allen Holzbearbeitungforen gefehlt habe, ist es der Mangel an internationalen Mitgliedern.

JimM
 
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