Slimline assembly help.

[Big T]

Hi,

I am having trouble pressing in the transmissions for a slimline I am making. It's my first pen and the kit is PSI (crappy I know but bear with me).

One trans bent and has been rendered NFG. I got the second one in but it doesn't look right. The pen looks slightly bent yet it still operates. Found out the the transmissions are made of brass.

Any tips that will help would be appreciated.

 

[ldb2000]

The PSI slimlines are no worse then any of the other cheap slimlines . I don't think the problem is in the kit . Most likely you have some glue inside the tubes and that's why the tranny won't fit . Slimline transmissions are a friction fit into the tube and if there is any glue or a burr from when you barrel trimmed your blank it will make almost impossible to get the tranny installed .
Just take a hobby knife or a small round file and clean the inside of the tubes and your tranny will fit right .

 

[hunter-27]

I agree but I still can't get a grip on pressing so hard as to bend the tranny without cracking the blank. I would guess as well to try cleaning up the tubes before pressing anything in.

The PSI slimlines are no worse then any of the other cheap slimlines . I don't think the problem is in the kit . Most likely you have some glue inside the tubes and that's why the tranny won't fit . Slimline transmissions are a friction fit into the tube and if there is any glue or a burr from when you barrel trimmed your blank it will make almost impossible to get the tranny installed .
Just take a hobby knife or a small round file and clean the inside of the tubes and your tranny will fit right .

 

[GaryMadore]

I was having the same problems with non-crappy Euros.

The good and learned folk here told me that it was most likely glue residue in the tubes.

I said that I had a full set of very expensive mills/reams and that I always cleaned the heck out of the tubes.

The good and learned folk here told me that it was still most likely glue in the tubes.

The next time I assembled a Euro, I took a 7mm reamer ("pilot shaft") in-hand and scraped the inside of the tube with it. Little, tiny, fluffy, almost transparent shavings of epoxy floated out, and I said to myself "hey, maybe the good and learned folk on IAP are right..."

They were indeed right: That Euro (and all since) went together like butter.

Executive Summary: Listen to these guys when they tell you why your transmissions won't gently glide into place: They've been there, done that, and know what they're talking about.

(Thanks again, my good and learned friends. I am now a happy Euro assembler and my blood pressure has gone down by at least 20 points)

Cheers!

Gary

 

[maxwell_smart007]

yep, my guess is glue in the tubes - I use a hobby knife to scrape the residue out - there's always some, and make sure that I align the transmission straight up-and-down before I press it in...

Andrew

 

[TellicoTurning]

I agree but I still can't get a grip on pressing so hard as to bend the tranny without cracking the blank. I would guess as well to try cleaning up the tubes before pressing anything in.

If you are cracking the blank, possibility is you don't have the tranny straight and square in the tube when you start to press... if you aren't square on the tube, you're possibly putting pressure towards the side of the tube/blank and that will almost invariably crack the blank (DAMHIKT)

 

[David M]

1 ) check for glue
2 ) press in streight / pararelle
3 ) sometime you can use a larger bit and cut a taper at top of the brass tube so transmission will start

 

[GaryMadore]

yep, my guess is glue in the tubes - I use a hobby knife to scrape the residue out - there's always some, and make sure that I align the transmission straight up-and-down before I press it in...

Andrew

Yeah, but that all won't help with the fact that yo' pens is butt-ugly anyways

Cheers!

Gary

 

[MikeMcM1956]

It definitely helps to put a small lead-in at both ends of the tubes to assist in starting and properly aligning nibs, caps, trannys, etc.

I use a Versa-Burr countersink tool from Plastic Process Equipment, they also sell about any other type of deflash/deburr tool you could ever need for any type of work or material. Along with tons of other stuff you didn't know you needed until you saw it :biggrin:....

http://www.ppe.com/09cat/0195-0202.pdf

http://www.ppe.com/

Mike

 

[TellicoTurning]

It definitely helps to put a small lead-in at both ends of the tubes to assist in starting and properly aligning nibs, caps, trannys, etc.

I use a Versa-Burr countersink tool from Plastic Process Equipment, they also sell about any other type of deflash/deburr tool you could ever need for any type of work or material. Along with tons of other stuff you didn't know you needed until you saw it :biggrin:....
http://www.ppe.com/09cat/0195-0202.pdf
http://www.ppe.com/
Mike

A wide blade screw driver will do the same thing... you can even sharpen the edge slightly, turn lightly in the tube and fit your transmission or nib.

 

[maxwell_smart007]

Hey, I didn't even ENTER the ugly pen contest this year, for fear of winning two years in a row! :wink:

Yeah, but that all won't help with the fact that yo' pens is butt-ugly anyways

Cheers!

Gary

 

[wdcav1952]

Brass barrel cleaning brushes of various sizes also help to clean out glue. Definitely consider sealing both ends of the tubes prior to gluing.

 

[Big T]

Wow! All these posts.

I took the pen apart earlier this evening and am starting over. I am reaming out the inside of the brass tube, like suggested and hoping that will work.

For those wondering how I am not cracking the blank, I should point out that this pen made from stainless steel and brass. The nib and finial in brass and the blank in SS.( I recently purchased a metal-cutting lathe).

Will post pics when finished.