Skews

[gomeral]

Okay, I've been debating posting this for fear of exposing my amateurishness for what it is, but I'm thinking I need to get another skew. I have a very small skew that came with a pen turning set I bought a long time ago at Woodcraft, but I long ago backed away from pen turning sized tools and I hate it. BUT, I think I'm using the wrong tools to do this pen turning stuff justice.

Here's the part I hope won't embarass me - I turn almost exclusively with a roughing gouge followed by either a scraper or a Spindlemaster - they are the easiest for me to use. I used to use a lot of sandpaper because I feared ruining the blanks if I cut too close, but I've been getting more confident. However, as evident in the OOR thread from a few days ago, I'm really starting to get frustrated and I think the tools may help. Of course, I'm teaching myself all of this, so I may be wrong! For affordability, I'm looking at the PSI chisels, specifically a 3/4" oval and a 1" standard skew. However, there is also the 7/8" & 1/2" rounded skew set. As much as I'd love to buy one of everything and experiment, I thought I'd ask for advice. As usual, it appears I'm just leeching off you guys... :redface:

Anyway, what's a good skew to start with? I'm thinking the rounded skews look the easiest to use, but I like the rounded bottom of the Spindlemaster and was thinking an oval would be a good way to go. I could grind my own rounded profile, if necessary, but I'd like to avoid having to rework something I've never worked with. Should I get an oval and a rounded? What's a good size to start, I'm leaning toward 1"+, is 3/4" too small?

Most of what I've been doing lately has been slimlines, but I'm trying to branch out and am getting ready to start doing Sierras. I also have some acrylics and am looking to get into non-wooden blanks, so any info you guys are willing to share would be greatly appreciated!



daniel

 

[tim self]

As far as skews go, I use a 1/2" and 1". I have a small round skew for detail work. If you're not used to a skew yet, go with a round, you will have a more control especially when you are down near the bushings. The center of the tool can go right up to them without the rest of the tool touching. With the larger skews, 1", you can cut almost the whole blank at once.

 

[rb765]

Wow, another Fresnite. I use a 1" for roughing and getting down to the basic shape, then switch to my 1/2" for finishing. Both are rounded. I also have straight ones, but they too will be rounded because the straight corners make it too easy for catches. Gimme a holler and I'll meet you for coffee some time.

 

[talbot]

Hi Daniel,
If what youre using works for you then its the correct tool.
I use 1/2" and 3/4" skews, and a small round skew occasionally. I also use a continental gouge and scraper.
I only have exp[erience of these US tools:
http://www.thompsonlathetools.com/ and they are superb.
I round the edges of my skews to prevent catches on the toolrest and all my skews are straight edge, more versatile in my opinion.
If you go the skew route dont be put off by all the dreaded skew stories. In penturning, a catch usually stops the blank spinning and in regular spindle work you'll probably just get a few unwanted spirals.
Keep the skew sharp at all times, regular honing is a good discipline and practise with long and short points, left and right hands and before long you'll love using it.
A good way to practise is with short lengths of 1 or 2" square softwood between centres and with a steb centre. Softwood as it lets you see how sharp the skew should be at all times and a steb because you can try anything without fear of a catch. This will give you confidence and skill, 30 minutes a day for a couple of weeks and you'll surprise yourself.
It's a great turning tool and more versatile than you might think.
regards,Bill

 

[pipeyeti]

Nothing wrong with using a spindlemaster I have one and use it more than any other tool.

 

[fernhills]

I use a 1/2" skew (straight) for final passes, no rounded corners. 3/4" roughing gouge to get round.

 

[rherrell]

I use a Sorby 3/4" standard old fashioned straight skew almost exclusively. I usually rough in the piece to round with a spindle gouge so as to save the edge on my skew but after it's roughed in the only tools I use are the 3/4" skew and a 1/16" parting tool. I can do everything I need with those two tools.
Just remember, you get what you pay for! (read my signature!)

 

[Daniel]

I think most people start out thinking that little turning would be easier to do with little tools. I don't know of many that stay with that thinking very long. I also think this has more to do with not really knowing what a "Small" tool is. I mean what do you compare it to. If the small tool for small turnings is true. then I think a 3/4 inch tool is small. a 1/2" tool is itty bitty and anything else is nearly a waste unless you like to do a lot of tiny beads and coves. those pen turning tools might work well if you want to turn some mugs for Barbie dolls.
By the way we are all newbies about something and we where all new to turning at one time. it took me nearly two years to figure out how to use a skew and I still would not want to demo it for fear of someone telling me how wrong I am using the tool. But the truth is is works for me.

 

[mdburn_em]

The key to any tool is keep it sharp.

Whether you use a scraper, a roughing gouge, a spindlemaster, spindle gouge or a skew. If it's dull, you'll be sorry.

I actually love my forged 3/4" spindle gouge.

 

[rimo]

Daniel,
I think I have the same "Pen turning" set from Woodcraft. I used to have issues with the skew (lots of catches) until I modified it from a "straight" edge to a "curved" edge. I used the Alan Lacer skew shape as a model for the "curve" that I ground onto my skew. I use it all the time now with no more fear of catches. Actually I used this on a couple of batches that I did before Christmas (70 in all) and didnt have a single catch. One more thing that I have found out about using the skew, I can now start with 320, 400 grit sand paper instead of 150 grit.

Good luck.

 

[marcruby]

I went through a number of skew patterns before deciding that I liked the Lacer pattern best. I have the ASP 2030 versions of both the 1-3/8" and the 5/8". For what it's worth I prefer using the 1-3/8" tool on pens although the small skew actually works almost as well.

Recently I ordered a Thompson 3/4" skew. I have two lathes in different locations and I wasn't happy at all with the oval I was using at the small lathe. As soon as I get it set into a handle and reground to a full Lacer pattern I'll probably have something to say about it.

Marc

 

[KenV]

It is all about style, experience, and the comfort you develop with practice. I notice that Ed Davidson (yo-yo spin) uses an oval skew with a steep bevel angle (the edges meet at an angle that appears to approach 90 degrees at the edge -- or short bevel length) where Lacer uses a longer 1.5 length to thickness smaller bevel. Both are correct. Robert Rosand popularized the round skew and is a whiz with it using a bevel about the same as Lacer.

All three of these venerable references use skews with rounded edges that roll smoothly on the tool rest. My experience suggest that this is a very good thing.

I find there are some things I cannot do as well with a big skew as I can do with a 1/4 or 3/8 round skew. I generally grab the 1/2 inch oval skew or the 5/8 Lacer curved grind skew once I lay down the gouge.

I find I am using Doug Thompson's 3/8 inch shallow detail gouge for more and more uses with the long fingernail grind that does shear scraping so so nicely for finish work on the shallow curves on most of the pens I turn.

Note that I am a diamond Hone user -- and hone my skews to a fine edge.

 

[gomeral]

Wow, lots of responses. Thanks!

Wow, another Fresnite. ... Gimme a holler and I'll meet you for coffee some time.

Would love to. I work in Visalia, so weekdays aren't so good, but definitely some weekend soon. In fact, if you haven't already, check the No/CenCal forum for discussion of the next local meeting, we can meet there!

I think most people start out thinking that little turning would be easier to do with little tools. I don't know of many that stay with that thinking very long.

One of my biggest complaints with the small tools is that the dang tool shank is so short, I can't rest it flat on the tool rest when sharpening - the handle makes it point down and makes it rock L/R.

By the way we are all newbies about something and we where all new to turning at one time. it took me nearly two years to figure out how to use a skew and I still would not want to demo it for fear of someone telling me how wrong I am using the tool. But the truth is is works for me.

I'm getting there - I'm a bit embarrassed that my woodturning will turn out like my golf swing...horrifying to watch, but really effective for me. (I start with the club face closed ~20º.) :tongue: It would be great to find a class so I can have someone who knows what they are doing show me, but for now it looks like I'm-a gonna teach myself...

I think I have the same "Pen turning" set from Woodcraft. I used to have issues with the skew (lots of catches) until I modified it from a "straight" edge to a "curved" edge. I used the Alan Lacer skew shape as a model for the "curve" that I ground onto my skew.

I did a little research, and I like what I see. I'm going to try this with the small one, if I can get it on the tool rest (see above). Thanks!

It is all about style, experience, and the comfort you develop with practice. I notice that Ed Davidson (yo-yo spin) uses an oval skew with a steep bevel angle (the edges meet at an angle that appears to approach 90 degrees at the edge -- or short bevel length) where Lacer uses a longer 1.5 length to thickness smaller bevel.

I just noticed this last night as I watched one of the videos from the library. This, too, is tempting to try, as it mirrors the way I hold the Spindlemaster when I work, so it might make for a nice transition. BTW, thanks for the names/references, I've started searching from there to get more info.

Once again, all, thanks for the responses, and if there are more out there, keep them coming! I have all workday to read and get my thoughts together before I go home and see if I can sneak out to the workshop... :tongue:



daniel

 

[Tn-Steve]

I've got the pen turning set from PSI also, I use a roughing gouge to get things round and down to the general size I want, a spindlemaster to get it "almost there", and the small PSI skew to finish it off. I put a bit of a radius on the skew also, now I have almost 100 percent confidence in it. I also have a 600 grit diamond stone and will occasionally stop and give it a couple of quick honing strokes to tune the edge. (mine is hollow ground so I feel comfortable doing this by hand)

I use 220 grit then to put the final touches on the design, I use a couple of popsicle sticks or tongue depressors to back the sandpaper so that I can get a nice flat surface to work with.

Everybody here has a different technique, you'll find the one that works for you, develop confidence in it, and make great pens. I alway like to see how others do it, and sometimes try their techniques. Some work for me, some don't, the ones that work get added to my 'toolbox'.

Now if you want to get into various way to get to the same end-point, start asking questions about doing a CA finish.

Steve

 

[gomeral]

Well, I ordered the 7/8" and 1/2" rounded set from PSI, it sounds like those are the best place to start. I'll probably regrind the business end of the small one that came with my Pinnacle set from WC and play with that, too, but once again I wanted to thank everyone for their input and support. I'll keep you all posted!


daniel