skew questions

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KP

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Folks -

My past few pens I've begun to turn with the skew, and am liking it. I've been using a 1/2" oval skew that I picked up on a whim as part of a "pen turner set". I got the set at Woodcraft, but it looks like what CSUSA sells as "Apprentice Pen Turners Set" with the wood case.

Anyhow, since I'm liking using this one, I'm wondering if any other of the small skews could even be better. In particular, maybe a 3/8" or a round skew or one of those tools that are sold for detail work, such as the Bonnie Klein series that CSUSA sells. Which skew do folks here use for their pens?

Also, how do you sharpen your skew? I've been using a belt sander, but find that it's hard not to get a faceted bevel. Anyone use the Wolverine skew jig? I already have a wolverine setup, so it's only be a $30 further investment.

Thanks -

Ken
 
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JimGo

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Ken,
I too use a 1/2" oval skew. I have two flat skews (1" and 3/8") that I got from Harbor Freight which I used to use, until I got the oval skew (mine is from PSI). I find that, unless I'm doing beadwork or the like, the size of the skew really doesn't make much of a difference. The sharpness and technique are really the determining factors.

I sharpen mine using my JoolTool now, and before I got the JoolTool I used to sharpen my oval skew with a diamond hone.
 

ed4copies

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Ken,

The "danger" of using a skew is the "catch". The skew "catches" when the top point hits the spinning object. So, the greater the distance from the cutting point to the top point, the less likely you are to "catch".

If you are always 100% awake and 100% "on top of" your turning, you can use ANYTHING to turn. But, if your mind drifts, the greater the margin of error, the less likely you will ruin your work (it DOES wake you up tho') So, I favor a 1" (arbitrary number) skew for all work except the last couple passes where I am shaping the ends and eliminating as much sanding as possible. THEN, I use a 1/2".

ANY TOOL CAN BE MADE TO WORK, use what makes YOU comfortable.
 

Rifleman1776

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I rough turn with a spindle gouge then bring the blank down with a 1" skew. This reduces risk of catch. Often use a smaller skew for final end shaping, similar to what Ed described. I sharpen freehand on an 80 grit slow wheel.
 

keithz

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I use one of the new 1/2" Kryo rolled edge skews from Henry Taylor. It is not curved. I love it. It is hollow ground and I hone it with an extra fine diamond card.
 

ctEaglesc

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I have always been a fan of the skew.I first started sharpening on a hand cranked grinding wheel.
The skew was the easiest to sharpen one handed while I turned the crank(thank God the griniding wheel clamped to the table)
I have started using the skew for everything from roughing the blank to Planing cuts and smoothing it down.
It saves time when I can't find the tool I am looking for.
I hone on a diamond stone.
 

alamocdc

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I use three skews regularly; 1/2", 3/4", and 1" (not necessarily in that order) and I love them. The 3/4" is oval, the others flat. I sharpen freehand on my slow speed grinder (as I do all my turning tools).

FWIW, Betty Scarpino has a great article on the use of skews in the latest issue of Woodworker's Journal.
 

Thumbs

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I thought it was a so-so article that didn't offer much to existing users of the skew but it did offer some acceptance for those who use the skew simply as a scraper.
 

alamocdc

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Bob, my reference to Betty's article was more for those less experienced in using one. If you are an accomplished user, it wouldn't have the same impact. However, since I'm self taught, it validated most of how I've come to use one and has some good explanations about the various cuttings surfaces of the skew. If you choose to disagree, you have that privilege. The lesser experienced skew users can judge the worthiness of the article themselves should they have the desire.
 

Rojo22

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I use Alan Lacer's 5/8" curved skew from start to finish on pens, wood or otherwise. I love the folks who look down on the "scrapers"....LOL...Is is just denial that the tool is made to work more than one way, or an elitist attitude that the tool is easier to use? A tool is a tool. The curve on the skew goes a long way for keeping the non cutting part of the blade away from the blank, and offers a little more insurance against a catch. You almost have to try to get a catch with the Lacer skew.
 

ed4copies

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Originally posted by Rojo22
<br />I use Alan Lacer's 5/8" curved skew from start to finish on pens, wood or otherwise. I love the folks who look down on the "scrapers"....LOL...Is is just denial that the tool is made to work more than one way, or an elitist attitude that the tool is easier to use? A tool is a tool. The curve on the skew goes a long way for keeping the non cutting part of the blade away from the blank, and offers a little more insurance against a catch. You almost have to try to get a catch with the Lacer skew.

This is true. However, you can't put the long point between the wood and the bushing to "round" a junction. So, every tool (or every tool "redesign") has its drawbacks as well as its advantages.[:D]
 

Thumbs

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Billy, It sounds as if you took personal offense to my opinion. I guess you have that privilege, too. Newer users can certainly read it and form their own opinions and use any help or information it offers them. More experienced users would probably not find it worth the purchase of the magazine, however. Just a fair warning and equal time....
BTW,
What has any of this have to do with your self taught validation? Did I imply anything about that?
Our disagreement will probably boost sales and interest though.
 

chigdon

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If you want the ULTIMATE in Skews get a Glaser 3/4" skew. The edge holds forever and the handle absorbs all the vibrations. Of course it is only $135. I own a 1" spindle gouge that was $200 but it is amazing. I am planning on getting the skew too and a big bowl gouge. I can honestly say that nothing else compares. They are hard to find, however.
 

Rojo22

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Originally posted by ed4copies
<br />
Originally posted by Rojo22
<br />I use Alan Lacer's 5/8" curved skew from start to finish on pens, wood or otherwise. I love the folks who look down on the "scrapers"....LOL...Is is just denial that the tool is made to work more than one way, or an elitist attitude that the tool is easier to use? A tool is a tool. The curve on the skew goes a long way for keeping the non cutting part of the blade away from the blank, and offers a little more insurance against a catch. You almost have to try to get a catch with the Lacer skew.

This is true. However, you can't put the long point between the wood and the bushing to "round" a junction. So, every tool (or every tool "redesign") has its drawbacks as well as its advantages.[:D]

Not sure what you are trying to accomplish there, but my reply was about the "catch", and not being the perfect tool. I use the skew to make beads, coves and other type stuff, it is a very flexible tool, but not sure about what you are asking me?
 
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