The skew

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alamocdc

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Apr 26, 2005
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I didn't want to hijack Christopher's post with this, so I started another. I've been watching a few videos looking for interesting little projects I can do for the upcoming holidays. A video that caught my attention was Cap'n Eddie's video on how he sharpens his shew. He references it in several of his vids. I have the PSI sharpening jig (Yes, the Wolverine clone) under my grinder. And I use it on everything. So all of my shews have been sharpened on it and I have marks on the slide mech so I know where to set it for each of them. Now Eddie doesn't use the hollow grind (like that obtained by using the jig) on his skews. He actually does the opposite and grinds his shews so they are convex. That means the tips arc outwardly rather than inwardly. Look at the attached graphic to see what I mean. He basically gets the shape freehand, then he uses a 600 grit diamond stone to refine the edge.

So what? Well, I decided to try it on a skew that I don't use often. All I can say is, "WOW!" I really didn't think it would make that big of a difference. But it really does. I've had no real problems using a skew with what I call the traditional grind (only because it is what we "traditionally" get from using either a jig, or flat platform in front of the grinder). But this new grind for me makes transitioning from the bevel to the cut so much easier. Look at the graphic again. The concave grind give you only two points to ride the bevel on and they are both abrupt. In fact, one of the two is the cutting edge. Even if you double bevel it slightly with a diamond hone, you only take that to three points. With the convex grind you have a nearly infinite number of points and except for the cutting edge, it is ALL bevel.

So what's the bottom line? Well, for me (YMMV) the bottom line is I will take any method that makes the job easier and give me better results. The convex grind does both. So all my skews will now sport this grind. You can literally roll the skew into a cut rather than flop it into a cut. And that aspect alone gave me better control. Sorry I got so windy. I just couldn't figure out a way to say all that with less words.

Oh, this may not be news to some of you. If that is the case, this was not written for you. So please comment accordingly. And FWIW, I'll be trying the double bevel grind on one of my gouges soon.
 

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Tim'sTurnings

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Looks like a good idea but everytime I try to do grinding freehand, it just doesn't work out. I would probably lose a lot of steel that way. lol.
I might try this if one of the jigs for the wolverine would do the job. It does look like it might work, good idea.
 

raar25

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Bill what difference have you seen with the chips coming off the skew. Your edge will actually stay sharp longer but theoretically not get as sharp if you don't put a compound bevel on the edge so I am interested what you have used this on and the shape of your chips.
 

alamocdc

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Thanks, Terry! That is exactly how I was going to answer.

As for the "chips". You should not be getting chips. If you are, you are either being too aggressive, or you have chatter. You should get smooth curls of shavings coming off the skew. I get the same kind of shavings I did before, but I have better control. And if quits cutting well I just hit it with the diamond hone again and I'm back in business.

Haynie, you are right. He is a bit of a rebel. But then, so am I!
 
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TerryDowning

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Additionally convex and flat ground edges will last longer than hollow ground edges.

Hollow ground will initially be sharper, but flat or convex will last longer. The most important part of the video is the bit on honing rather than grinding.
 
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