Shell casing----How do you????

[Gary Max]

We where yacking about this the other day and it seems everyone does it differently. How do you install a slimline tube in a shell casing.
I use Polly Glue---this works fine but the clean up can be a real job.
How do you glue/hold the tube in the casing????
Has to be a better way than what I am doing.

 

[Monty]

I use a poly also. Going on the assumption that when it expands it makes a tighter fit.

 

[turned_for_good]

Well, I learned from Monty so I use Poly.

 

[edman2]

I put heat shrinkable tubing around the tube, shrink it, then glue it into the casing on both ends. The tubing lets it fit tight and the glue keeps it from pulling out. Works like a charm.

gerryr, Thanks for that note. So far I have had none come apart but your experience alerts me to be really careful. I appreciate it.

 

[gerryr]

I used to use the heat shrink tube, but I had some come apart. CA does not work terribly well for metal to metal and I don't think it bonds real well on the heat shrink. I tried Eagle's method of drilling out the primer end to the same ID as the inside of the casing, gluing the tube into a piece of wood and then turning it down to just fit inside the casing. I leave the tube sticking out of the wood do it extends into the smaller part of the casing. I then glue it into the casing with epoxy. I turn a tenon on the upper part so it slips into the casing. I like the results much better. I thought about trying poly a couple of times but the thought of trying to clean up the mess kept me from doing it.

 

[dfurlano]

For 30 caliber I use a 2018 arrow that press fits into the neck of the casing. Then you do not need to glue anything.

 

[cozee]

I simply drill out the primer end to fit the tube. Mount and turn down a piece of wood to fit the bullet end. Thick CA or Epoxy and being sure to thouroughly rough up all glue joints. I have also used JB weld on the primer end joint. I use silver solder when using cut casings. I then trim the minute excess tube. Press in transmission just as I would a regular slimline and assemble as normal.

 

[cozee]

I simply drill out the primer end to fit the tube. Mount and turn down a piece of wood to fit the bullet end. Thick CA or Epoxy and being sure to thouroughly rough up all glue joints. I have also used JB weld on the primer end joint. I use silver solder when using cut casings. I then trim the minute excess tube. Press in transmission just as I would a regular slimline and assemble as normal.

 

[clewless]

For .308, I drill out the casing 5/16 at primer end.

Wrap one tube end in blue tape to get a snug fit at the front end, plug tube at "blue" end with wax.

Apply GG into primer end of casing rolling it around to coat the inside all the way around. Our horse vet "gives" me the used syringes after injecting the horses for all sorts of things at a hefty fee. They are handy for single use of GG, CA and epoxy, especially in tight spaces.

Insert taped/plugged end of tube from primer end while holding casing horizontal.

Set it vertically in my nail board. Check it in a few minutes as GG foams, to center the brass tube...sometimes toothpicks are used to center.

Wait a few days for GG to stop foaming. I didn't do that once and had a pen with foam coming out of the center...not very pretty a sight.[)]

Trim brass to length of casing on disc sander.

Assemble pen.

 

[Gary Max]

Here's a couple of other things I have messed around with that kinda helped.
I switched from GG to Elmers Polly---cost less--clean-up is better--drys faster than GG--They sell it at wally world over in the house paint section of the store.
Instead of useing the blue tape---you like this one.
I found some real thick clear finger nail polish. Just paint a bead on the end of the tube and let it dry over night. Makes a real nice spacer.

 

[cozee]

With poly, how do maintain center while the glue sets? My success with it is about 1 out of 10.

 

[Gary Max]

Don't laugh at me but that's what the finger nail polish is for---I am building up one end of the tube---let it dry overnight and I have a nice hard bead on the end. The trick was finding thick polish that did not run.
Gerg I am making a bunch of these pens for sale---I bought a 100 chrome kits from Ryan at woodturningz.
I had thought of other things---a small O-ring that would fit between the casing and tube---wood putty and just wanted to see what everyone else was doing

 

[cozee]

From drilling to gluing, it takes me about 3 minutes per casing which includes the turning of the wood spacer on the tube. I do these 20-30 at a time so it is more of an assembly line process making things speedier in assembly. Polishing by hand on the lathe takes another 30 seconds to 3 minutes, depending on which type of finish I want.

 

[its_virgil]

I also turn a piece of wood on the tube as Greg does. I consider this to be the best solution and as he mentioned, it doesn't take long...just don't start with a 2x2[]
Do a good turn daily!
Don

Originally posted by cozee
<br />I simply drill out the primer end to fit the tube. Mount and turn down a piece of wood to fit the bullet end.
Greg

 

[Fishshooter]

I have used blue tape to fill the gaps and then CA which has held pretty good. The problem that I have had, is when I powder coat. The tape becomes either brittle and falls out or it melts and oozes. No problem with the CA holding even after cooking, but that tape sure can make a mess...

 

[stevers]

I have just started, but so far I use Cozee's method. Turn a small sleeve on the bullet end of the tube and drill the primer. Then just glue tube in. I tied a few types of tape and didn't have very good luck. Another gentleman I talked to uses a full length sleeve. First he drills the entire end of the shell out. He turns a sleeve the entire length of the casing, in the shape of the inside of the casing. He feels the failure rate is smaller this way.
I have just started doing these myself, so I may change my method as I go along.

 

[cozee]

Steve, you mention a failure rate? Other than the possibility of the tube coming loose (poor choice of glue) what else is there to fail witth a casing?

 

[stevers]

Cozze, I sent you an E-mail.

 

[hanau]

i just drill the primer out to 7mm and put thick CA on it.have a bar with 1/4 bolts that i slip casing over while it dries.

my question is do you powder coat before or after inserting the tube?

does the heat effect the glue while baking the casing?

 

[cozee]

Thanks Steve. Got it!

<b>Hanau</b> CA doesn't like the heat it requires for powder coating. Some epoxiees don't either.

 

[hanau]

what is the best type of glue or epoxy that should be used when powder coating?

 

[Fred]

I have not tried this myself, but could one use a bit of Bond-O to seal the tube in place? Just don't add quite as much catalyst to give yourself a bit of runny Bond-O. Be sure to clean the brass tubing very well and void finger prints as Bond-O doesn't hold well on "oily" surfaces. JUST and idea thrown out to try...

Fred

 

[cozee]

Originally posted by cozee
<br />Thanks Steve. Got it!

<b>Hanau</b> CA doesn't like the heat it requires for powder coating. Some epoxiees don't either.

Trial and error has shown me that unless I solder the tubes in, which I do from time to time (key word "time"), that if the casing is to be powder coated it is best to install the tube after the casing has been baked. CA definitely will not take the heat as is the problem with many epoxies. JB Weld has worked for me but I'd still rather not take any chances.

Once the casings have cooled, simply rough up the inside contact areas (and on the tubes to!!) where the adhesive of choice will be applied. Use some blue or purple painters masking tape (low tac) to mask off the ends of the casing to prevent adhesive from getting on the finish.

 

[hanau]

cozee thanks

i will need to figure out how to polish the brass before powder coating them.

i will try powder coating them before putting the brass in.

 

[cozee]

Originally posted by hanau
<br />cozee thanks

i will need to figure out how to polish the brass before powder coating them.

i will try powder coating them before putting the brass in.

So as to not totally hi-jack this thread here is a brief explanation (with pic) of how I polish casings.

1. After drilling the casing, I mount it on the mandrel with bushings I have turnd just for this purpose. Mine are made out of aluminum but can be made from other material. PVC would be good in this application as it is durable, easy to machine, and no need to be concerned about CA. See pic.

2. If the casing has deep scratches I begin with 600 grit wet paper and sand wet 600, 1000, and 1500 around 1600-1800 rpm. Then I switch to Abralon, sanding wet with 2000 then 4000. Go to # 3.

2a. If the casing has fine or little scratching, I use #000 or #0000 steel wool along with Brasso with the lathe running about 1600-1800 rpm. I recommend rubber gloves as things can turn black rather quicky.

3. If the casing is to be powder coated: I then clean them thoroughly with acetone or naptha being sure to not touch them with bare hands or dirty gloves. A quick swipe with a used dryer sheet helps to keep them from attracting dust till they are coated.

If the casing is to remain "raw" I finish out the polishing with a machine glaze compound then a finishing compond followed up with a coat of wax and good buff with a polishing cloth.

This all sounds like a lot of work and can be until you get your routine down. I can polish from start to finish in less than 5 minutes, 3 if I don't goof off!!! (But I cheat by doing two on a mandrel!!)