Sharp edge between nib & barrel question

[ossaguy]

Hi All,

I'm just starting out,and have made only a couple Slimlines that I have used the BLO/CA finish on,and I was looking for tips on how to end up with a seamless transition between the nib and the finished body? It's all fine unitil the CA is built up,and if I do too much sandling to bring it down,there are places that it looks like it goes thru the CA,into the wood.

I was previously using the Hut Crystal Coat,and that doesn't add almost anything to it,so those ones all had a nice smooth transition there.

I'm guessing that I have to go a little below the bushing,then apply the CA,but is there a general rule on how far that is,or a slick tip you can give on how you all do it? I'm using a mandrel setup.I hate to go too low since it seems that I pick up the metal from the bushing in the wood.

I've tried carefully sandling the edge after it's off the mandrel,but I'm afraid of going to far and ruining it so I guess I don't go far enough and it bugs my to have the "step" there.

I want to improve in my penmaking,so I thought I'd ask the experts here.I'm amazed at the quality of work you all are posting pics of.


Thanks for any tips!

Steve

San Diego

 

[Len Shreck]

I am a "newbie" also and had the same problem. What I started doing is taking some quad 0 (0000) steel wool and rubbing it around the ends a little to take the edge off its not perfect but I think it makes a difference and from what I see it hasn't messed up the finish. I bought mine at Walmart for like 4.00 I think for a whole pack of them. try it and then check it and if needed do it some more. Hope it helps. Len Keep me updated.

 

[workinforwood]

I turn mine between centers. Although you can use a mandrel and have success, the success rate between centers is virtually guaranteed every time. This matters, because a blank that is just barely out of round, when you finish it, you will have a greater chance of not sanding uniformly around the pen, thus causing a spot where you sanded through. Now...I turn the blank down to bushing size. I remove the pen from the bushings, mount just the blank between centers and sand, especially at the ends. Just bringing the diameter down a little bit below bushing size while at the same time smoothing the blank. I'll let the blank sit about 5 min to be sure it is not hot, and then I can apply a finish. You can do this between centers, no bushings at all. Any CA that gets on centers will easily scrape off. After you apply 3-5 coats, remove the blank. I use a belt sander with the power off, I sand the end of the blank to remove the overhanging finish. You hold the blank on a slight angle and pull, so you are pulling in a direction towards the pen. Going the opposite direction can chip the finish. When the end is mostly cleaned up, I use a barrel trimmer or barrel sander to make sure the end is still square. Re-mount between centers. Dry sand across pen to remove ridges. Use calipers, measure parts, measure ends of blank. Wet sand. Blank is too small? Add more finish. Blank is too big..wet sand until it is super close..better the blank with finish is too big than too small. If it is a micro hair too big and you simply tap the leading edge that it is sharp with some fine sandpaper, you will have a smooth even transition. This means you can round over the edge of the pen, but it is barely rounded of course. In my opinion the end of the blank should not be super sharp anyhow, because that can cause the finish to get damaged. Rounding the edge doesn't mean a round pen either..it only takes a second to break that edge and as long as the blank is the same size or just a split hair larger than the nib, nobody will be able to tell.

 

[rherrell]

I make these for that exact purpose.
http://www.penturners.org/forum/showthread.php?t=42098&highlight=sanding+mill

I've sold alot of them and everyone seems to like them.:wink:

 

[johnnycnc]

I very lightly round the edges of the ends after or at 600 grit stage before finishing,
it seems to help me avoid that "sharp edge", and cutting through it later while
sanding the finish. I think it makesa more pleasing transition also. my two cents!

 

[ed4copies]

Or a different approach:
Start doing bigger pens that have more "meat" around the nib.
The slimline is probably the MOST difficult to accommodate the problem you describe, start with something easier.

 

[JimB]

All good advice above. With experience you will overcome these problems. That is all part of the learning process. Try the things already mentioned and you will see your work improve.

 

[Grizzlyss]

Try this

You can try what I do. I have found that no matter how many times I measure the pen blank always seems to be enough hi or lo to be slightly felt, so what I do now is turn just a hair larger and I round of the edges by hand after finishing. How I do this is to turn the blank against first 2400 grit MM, I hold the blank with my right hand (left if your a South Paw, LOL), and with the MM held around the very end of the blank with the left hand, I then turn the blank with my right hand. after about a minute I go up in MM o 3000, and I go all the way up to 12000, whne done your blanks are just slightly rounded over, but still nice and shiny finish (If that is the finish your going for), and the finished pen feels much better in the hand with no sharp edges to be found. My clients love it.

Sheldon