Segmenting question

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Kragax

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Jan 17, 2015
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I have a lull in the sign carving right now so I have some time to play with a few ideas and things like learning ca finish and want to trying segmenting as well. What glue do you recommend for segmenting work, I would hate to have it fall apart. LOL
 
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chartle

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I have a lull in the sign carving right now so I have some time to play with a few ideas and things like learning ca finish and want to trying segmenting as well. What glue do you recommend for segmenting work, I would hate to have it fall apart. LOL

Epoxy and definitely not CA at least not thin.
 

monophoto

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I suggest a PVA glue (eg, Titebond).

As others have said, CA isn't a good idea. It don't have much working time, and the joint is brittle.

Epoxy is fine, but PVA is not as messy and is less expensive. Yes, it has to cure longer - I can be patient.
 

KenV

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Juneau, Alaska.
CA is low on the archival scale (turns brittle and does not hold up over long periods of time).

Epoxy is better from an archival basis and a wide range of different epoxies are available beyond the common ones in the hardware section of the big box store.
 

farmer

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Jun 16, 2012
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24 hr epoxy

200 inlays = 200 days for waiting for glue to dry.
Switch to super gel control Loctite.

Now its about 30 minute drying time.

200 inlays 30 minutes each piece = 100 hrs

So I added on 2 more lathes so I can always be busy and I am not just waiting for glue to dry.
 

Kragax

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Jan 17, 2015
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western new york
Maybe Ill try both as this is an experiment and see what works better for me. I am going to definitely going to try ca finish though. I have some Koa to make a pen for a customer and it does seem to have some tiny voids that ca will fill. As always I appreciate your help and advice.
 

Souths1der

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Jan 13, 2015
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SW Suburbs of Chicago
I learned to not use thin CA the hard way. I also had a failure once with medium CA, but I had been using the Stickfast Medium CA for finishing. Since that failure I've used both epoxy and medium CA with good results. Just make sure you don't use medium CA that was formulated for finishing. I'm no chemist so I don't know exactly what is different, but when I switched to using non-finishing formulated CA I was pleased with my results.
 

rpearson

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Apr 24, 2009
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Medford, Oregon
First advise is Go For It! Yes, you may have some failures but that's how we learn.

Produced many with good ole Titebond wood glue (PVA). Long clamp, wait, and dry time. I always let them dry overnight. Advantages are longer work time for positioning and clamping.

Have also used thin CA with accelerator to quickly produce segmented pens.
See this video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UwK6n3iSyh0
Two big issues with this method are no work time, where you stick it is where it stays. I have had bonds fail or explode on the lathe. That being said, I still use this method for certain designs quite successfully. It's not a method for the faint at heart. I've also become pretty good at fixing some that have exploded on the lathe. Not sure that's good or bad :)
Some examples to encourage you.
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1039.113726.jpg

1039.532944.jpg
 
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