segmenting with brass

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great12b4ever

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I have a probably stupid question but here goes. I see a lot of people segment there wood with aluminum from coke cans. Does anyone use brass for segmenting? I have a fair amount of brass that is .002" and .003" in thickness that I think would be perfect for segmenting. Is there a reason NOT to use brass? I use a CA finish on my pens so it should be covered well to prevent discoloring.

Rob
 
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LEAP

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Hi Rob,
Ive got a roll of brass sheet .002" that I'm thinking of cutting into thin strips and curling up in a casting. I'm waiting for the powder dyes for the PR. let us know if you give it a try I'm curious to know what your experience will be.
 

leehljp

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I use brass quite often now and have been for about a year. If coated with CA as a part of the finish, there should be no tarnishing.

Here is the link to an experiment that I tried (and it worked very well) in which I wanted a larger slimline. I used 1mm thick brass sheeting as spacers.
http://www.penturners.org/oldalbums/leehljp/Slimline%20end.jpg

A pen with .5mm sheeting as a separator in the segments:

Best%20pen.jpg
 

les-smith

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Dang Hank, That's a nice looking Sierra. I like the larger slimline idea. I'm going to give that a shot.
 

great12b4ever

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OK, I will do some segmenting with my brass, and let y'all know how it comes out. If I can ever get my camera set-up finished, I will post some pictures.

Rob
 

leehljp

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Just a note to take small cuts and keep the chisels sharp. I have to do this a lot more often with the brass than with anything else.
 

great12b4ever

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Thanks for the tip, Hank. I have the Tormek system, and will make doubly sure everything is scary sharp. I have found that keeping the chisels very sharp and honing often has allowed me to turn unstabilized burls and small segmented items without blowouts or ruining the blanks and glue-ups so far (knock on wood)

Rob
 

leehljp

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Originally posted by jdmyers4
<br />I've been wanting to use brass. Hank, do you use soft brass or half hard brass sheet?
John

I don't know the real difference. I think mine is the half hard because it is in sheets. The sheets here are available in approximately 4" X 12" and 12" X 12" sheets, in .1, .3, .5, 1.0mm, 1.5mm, 2.0mm.

I can get the same in aluminum also and a few of the thicknesses in copper.
 

leehljp

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Oh one other thing (Rick's post reminded me of it) - I do not segment all the pieces and then drill. Instead, I put the central portion on the tube, turn it until the center part is squared. Next, I take the tube off of the lathe; make sure succeeding pieces/segments are as square as I can possible make them. Then I add the brass and end piece with plenty of CA or epoxy. For me - I make sure that the end pieces are about 1/32 inch longer than the ends of the tubes, I quickly put a clamp on it and bring it up tight/snug and let it set for about an hour.

I have done several this way. It may not be the most convenient way but it is the only way my mind is working.

ON the BRASS: Since I drill the holes first, and if you choose to do it this way - here is a TIP: I place my sheet of brass on a piece of 1/2 plywood that is about an inch larger on each side than the brass sheet. I lay another piece of 3/8 or 1/2 in ply (approximately the same size as the other ply) on top of the brass and screw the two sheets (of ply) together around the edges, with a screw about every 3 inches. Next, I drill holes slowly on the drill press . This will hold the brass and make smooth cuts.

I drill about 20 or 30 holes at a time, space about an inch apart. Then I take the screws out and use some shears to cut out brass "washers". It doesn't have to be perfect, just enough to be a tad larger than the finished blank size. The brass might "curl' as you cut it but that can be flattened out between two boards with a hammer. The holes need to be fairly accurate; the outside does not, as it will be turned down.

I use a fast lathe speed and VERY slow/small cuts on the initial brass portion of the glued up segmented blank.
 

GaryMGg

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Someone say Brass segmentation; this goes a step beyond segmentation -- hand-made inlay.
These are NOT MINE but are evidence that you can run the brass lengthwise and
not have a problem. Each of these is a true inlay. The brass does not go
all the way thru the blank. The inlays are parallel to one another thus the pattern
repeats all the way around the pens.

2007114133350_brassEbonyFeather1.jpg

<br />

2007114133649_feathersblackgold8%20repeat.jpg

<br />

What that guy with the Jamaican accent used to say?:
Try making that out of a Cola nut. [:D][;)]
 
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