spanky239
Member
I have a question reguarding segmenting can you glue wood, brass or aluminum and polyester resin? Just wanted to know before I make a mess:biggrin:
Thanks,
Stacey
Thanks,
Stacey
Segmenting
- Thread starter spanky239
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Ruby pen turning
Member
Yes. you can glue all of them. Metal seems to not bond as good to wood or PR. Super glue works but epoxy works better. Heat from drilling will debond anything so go slow.
HoratioHornblower
Member
Thats funny Brian, because epoxy did not work for me at all and superglue has worked MUCH better. I tried on my first segmented pen to epoxy it 2-3 times, and it did not bond almost at all. The first try with super glue did the trick. I have had it fail on me, but the epoxy didn't work at all. Maybe I just had some bad epoxy. I was using alot, so do you find that if you use too much that it won't work for you? (if I remember right, I made sure to mix it thoroughly)
Stacey, Brian is right about the epoxy working better. (if it will bond) It is more shock resistant than CA. If it works for you I would give it a try first!
Sincerely,
David
Stacey, Brian is right about the epoxy working better. (if it will bond) It is more shock resistant than CA. If it works for you I would give it a try first!
Sincerely,
David
leehljp
Member Liaison
I usually use epoxy but I have used CA at times. I prefer epoxy. That said, there are people who do have problems with epoxy at times. It seems to be that they have must have some bad epoxy. But heat will cause it to separate. Be careful with the heat.
Freethinker
Member
I have read about people even doing scalloping with CA.
?!?!? Are you kidding me??
It SURE would be a lot faster, but I do not think I could accomplish it, even with brand new fresh CA and perfectly prepared surfaces.
I am truly at a loss as to how they achieve the necessary adhesion (with CA) to take the kind of stresses that drilling and turning put on a blank. I have in the past tried to glue aluminum to acrylic with CA and was able to simply peel the two apart an hour later, with very little effort. And I had fresh, top grade CA from Manny.
I made a puzzle pen from Kallenshaan with nothing but CA, but with that you're assembling the wood AROUND the tube and the stresses are simply not as great.
Putting a gouge or skew to a wood/aluminum/acrylic sandwich without delaminating it is challenging enough, even with epoxy.
?!?!? Are you kidding me??
It SURE would be a lot faster, but I do not think I could accomplish it, even with brand new fresh CA and perfectly prepared surfaces.
I am truly at a loss as to how they achieve the necessary adhesion (with CA) to take the kind of stresses that drilling and turning put on a blank. I have in the past tried to glue aluminum to acrylic with CA and was able to simply peel the two apart an hour later, with very little effort. And I had fresh, top grade CA from Manny.
I made a puzzle pen from Kallenshaan with nothing but CA, but with that you're assembling the wood AROUND the tube and the stresses are simply not as great.
Putting a gouge or skew to a wood/aluminum/acrylic sandwich without delaminating it is challenging enough, even with epoxy.
Ruby pen turning
Member
Epoxy seems to stay more elastic? but if it gets to hot it will let loose. Starts to liquify I guess you could say. Super glue works great as long as it does not get get to hot and you do get a big catch while turning. Also, if parts are not glued to the tube (as in pockets of no glue gluing the parts to the tube) as they get thinner they can just get plucked right off. As you are turning, cover the segments with thin CA turn some more coat with CA turn some more. It helps a whole lot to keep things together.
With the exception of some recent metal to metal joints ( now trying brazing) I use CA exclusively for all differing materials.
Sure, you need to take a bit of care, but hey....
I think just a little prior thought can prevent the joints being seperated during turning. The object of course is to remove material by turning in such a manner that the joint ALWAYS offers more resistance to breaking than the effort required by the tool to remove material.
There are many ways to help this, but the most common ones are the old nugget 'sharp tools' ( does anyone actually use dull tools??
) and fine feed. Fine feed is easier to achieve with faster speed.
It is easy to control on a metal lathe, but not too difficult on a wood lathe with a little practice.
Most failures happen before the segmented blank is round. Tools catching corners can be difficult. But you can help here too. First, trim it down a bit with whatever method you want.....bandsaw, hacksaw, file, whatever.
Then re-inforce the outside of the blank with shavings and more CA ( Thanks Eagle).
Look here for an example of a recent scalloped pen of mine that shows the unturned blank a few post down.
As soon as it gets to the round(ish) stage, I drill the holes. Then CA the tube in, then turn it down. :wink:
Aluminium ( soda cans ) is notoriously difficult to join. But leaving the printed surface on helps it stick ( thanks again Eagle) Degrease your fingerprints off all metal before CA'ing:wink:
One last edit; I know people swear by epoxy, but I don't have the patience ( or time )to wait for it to cure and I found that I wasted tons of the stuff which made it a lot more expensive than CA:biggrin:
Sure, you need to take a bit of care, but hey....
I think just a little prior thought can prevent the joints being seperated during turning. The object of course is to remove material by turning in such a manner that the joint ALWAYS offers more resistance to breaking than the effort required by the tool to remove material.
There are many ways to help this, but the most common ones are the old nugget 'sharp tools' ( does anyone actually use dull tools??
) and fine feed. Fine feed is easier to achieve with faster speed. It is easy to control on a metal lathe, but not too difficult on a wood lathe with a little practice.
Most failures happen before the segmented blank is round. Tools catching corners can be difficult. But you can help here too. First, trim it down a bit with whatever method you want.....bandsaw, hacksaw, file, whatever.
Then re-inforce the outside of the blank with shavings and more CA ( Thanks Eagle).
Look here for an example of a recent scalloped pen of mine that shows the unturned blank a few post down.
As soon as it gets to the round(ish) stage, I drill the holes. Then CA the tube in, then turn it down. :wink:
Aluminium ( soda cans ) is notoriously difficult to join. But leaving the printed surface on helps it stick ( thanks again Eagle) Degrease your fingerprints off all metal before CA'ing:wink:
One last edit; I know people swear by epoxy, but I don't have the patience ( or time )to wait for it to cure and I found that I wasted tons of the stuff which made it a lot more expensive than CA:biggrin:
Last edited:
spanky239
Member
What about using Gorilla Glue on the 3 different types of matiral.
Stacey
Stacey
reiddog1
Member
CA
All CA on this one. I use my sander to knock off the corners to almost round before turning. I also turn with cheap HF lathe tools. I just keep them sharp. A light touch and sharp tools seem to work for me. I rough up my soda can aluminum with 120 grit before I glue. Different strokes for different folks I guess.
Dave
All CA on this one. I use my sander to knock off the corners to almost round before turning. I also turn with cheap HF lathe tools. I just keep them sharp. A light touch and sharp tools seem to work for me. I rough up my soda can aluminum with 120 grit before I glue. Different strokes for different folks I guess.
Dave
Attachments
Ruby pen turning
Member
Gorilla glue might work ( have not tried it) but if you have ever messed with expand A foam it is messy stuff. It does not expand as much but it does expand.