Segment/Kerf Cutting

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bobleibo

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I wanted to ask for some input on how some of you do your cutting for segmented blanks. I've done quite a few but am ALWAYS looking for tips on how I can keep improving. When at all possible, I prefer doing kerf cuts but have had to cut the blanks all the way thru on occasion. I have set up my table saw with a sled that I have spent hours dialing in to as exact as I can get it as well as a few jigs that help. I even went as far as taking a thin plywood blade and actually grinding the outboard side of the teeth to make it thinner. So far, I have gotten it down to .0815 inches. Using my band saw is not the best choice because it is not the most accurate.
Questions......
- Do any of you metalworking guys know of a way to get the blade even thinner without comprimising the blade integrity?
- What method do most of you prefer....kerf or completely cutting the blanks?
- I use a Frued blade which seems to be the thinnest one I could find. Are there better others out there that you know of?

ANY and ALL hints, tips, suggestions, etc. are greatly, greatly appreciated! I am never surprised at some of the things I read here that I never would have thought about.

Cheers
Bob
 
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mickr

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only thinner blades I am aware of are on the small table saws..i.e.Byrnes Model Machines
 

ribanett

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Kenner, LA, USA.
Bob,

Here is an article I posted to the lib last year.

Hope it helps

sorr forgot the link http://content.penturners.org/articles/2009/6-Segment-Knot-Pen.pdf


I wanted to ask for some input on how some of you do your cutting for segmented blanks. I've done quite a few but am ALWAYS looking for tips on how I can keep improving. When at all possible, I prefer doing kerf cuts but have had to cut the blanks all the way thru on occasion. I have set up my table saw with a sled that I have spent hours dialing in to as exact as I can get it as well as a few jigs that help. I even went as far as taking a thin plywood blade and actually grinding the outboard side of the teeth to make it thinner. So far, I have gotten it down to .0815 inches. Using my band saw is not the best choice because it is not the most accurate.
Questions......
- Do any of you metalworking guys know of a way to get the blade even thinner without comprimising the blade integrity?
- What method do most of you prefer....kerf or completely cutting the blanks?
- I use a Frued blade which seems to be the thinnest one I could find. Are there better others out there that you know of?

ANY and ALL hints, tips, suggestions, etc. are greatly, greatly appreciated! I am never surprised at some of the things I read here that I never would have thought about.

Cheers
Bob
 
Last edited:

randyrls

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Feb 2, 2006
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Harrisburg, PA 17112
I even went as far as taking a thin plywood blade and actually grinding the outboard side of the teeth to make it thinner. So far, I have gotten it down to .0815 inches. Using my band saw is not the best choice because it is not the most accurate.

Bob; You can use a 7-14" circular saw blade. Make sure it is carbide tipped, and has the most teeth you can find. My blade cuts a kerf about .075" You are limited by the blade to a cutting depth of about 1-9/16" depending on your saw and blade stiffener.
 

bobleibo

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Utah
Bob; You can use a 7-14" circular saw blade. Make sure it is carbide tipped, and has the most teeth you can find. My blade cuts a kerf about .075" You are limited by the blade to a cutting depth of about 1-9/16" depending on your saw and blade stiffener.

Randy
What kind of blade do you have? I would sure rather get one that is already thin vs. grinding it down myself. The blade I have now is a 140 tooth blade so that is covered.
Thanks
Bob
 

bobleibo

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Bob,

Here is an article I posted to the lib last year.

Hope it helps

sorr forgot the link http://content.penturners.org/articles/2009/6-Segment-Knot-Pen.pdf

Hi Larry
I saw that article and got a lot out of it. Question.....I've thought about using a mitre box but always thought they had too much flex for precision work, although I've never used the model you mentioned. Has that been a problem, especially with such a thin blade? That is why I am wondering about how thin I can grind the edges before it starts giving up some of the accuracy.
Thanks!
Bob
 

sgimbel

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Dec 23, 2008
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Round Rock, Texas
What about a scroll saw? I use micro bits to drill holes for a blade not much bigger than a thick hair. The are tons of different blades available that will easily cut the segments.
 

jttheclockman

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Feb 22, 2005
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NJ, USA.
How thin do you want to go??? Thin is not always a good look. Depends on the pattern. If you want thin wavy lines then a scrollsaw is the way to go. You can get hair thickness thin with a scrollsaw. Need either to include more info or as mentioned check the searh feature or even the library. Good luck and post your results when you get set up.
 

ribanett

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Dec 15, 2007
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Location
Kenner, LA, USA.
Bob,

The Noblex Miter Saw blade allows you the tension the blade so it flexes very little. the blades I use are acrylic and wood = 24 tpi, for brass cartridges = 32 tpi. I also have a blade with 60 tpi. the blade is 1.75" wide and the frame is all metal and very stout. With a kurf of only 0.04" you can make very fine cuts. Here are some samples:

Cartridge_Pen_007_edited.jpg


rwbcontest01.jpg



Seg_Cartridge_001_edited.jpg



Segment_1_046_edited.jpg


Segment_1_050_edited.jpg


Hi Larry
I saw that article and got a lot out of it. Question.....I've thought about using a mitre box but always thought they had too much flex for precision work, although I've never used the model you mentioned. Has that been a problem, especially with such a thin blade? That is why I am wondering about how thin I can grind the edges before it starts giving up some of the accuracy.
Thanks!
Bob
 

bobleibo

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Mar 15, 2007
Messages
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Location
Utah
Thank you so much to everyone for your suggestions.......it is very helpful.
Cheers
Bob
 

bobleibo

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Mar 15, 2007
Messages
2,130
Location
Utah
Larry...
All I can say is wow.....no one can argue with your results!
Thank you
Bob

Bob,

The Noblex Miter Saw blade allows you the tension the blade so it flexes very little. the blades I use are acrylic and wood = 24 tpi, for brass cartridges = 32 tpi. I also have a blade with 60 tpi. the blade is 1.75" wide and the frame is all metal and very stout. With a kurf of only 0.04" you can make very fine cuts. Here are some samples:

Cartridge_Pen_007_edited.jpg


rwbcontest01.jpg



Seg_Cartridge_001_edited.jpg



Segment_1_046_edited.jpg


Segment_1_050_edited.jpg
 

tool-man

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Aug 7, 2008
Messages
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Location
Hagerstown, Maryland
I looked on the Internet for the Nobex saw and found it is over $100. Stanley makes a very similar saw #20-800 and also there is the Empire Level 36191N. Does any one have either of these saws and would share their comments about their performance?
 
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