Sedona disassembly

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jleiwig

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Joined
Jan 10, 2007
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1,860
Location
Monroe, Ohio, USA.
I'm looking for help on disassembling a sedona that was one of the first pens I ever made. I want to refinish it as I know I can do better now.

I've read posts on the baron disassembly, but they talk of holding the pen in your hand. I don't have enough hand strength to be able to hold a pen and hit it with a hammer. The pen will just slide right out the other end.

What other ideas do you have? Pictures would be even better.

Thanks,

Justin
 
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Russianwolf

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Jul 13, 2007
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5,690
Location
Martinsburg, WV, USA.
The pen body is easy.

drill a hole through a piece of scrap wood that's slightly larger than the threads.

with the finial in place and the section removed, place the finial in the hole (the trim band should be sitting on the board on all sides and the threads in the hole), put the punch through the open end and one whack with a hammer is all it takes.

swap the finial to the other threaded part and put it in the hole again. another whack and you're done. (put a towel or something under the hole to keep the piece from bouncing all over the shop, and I raise my scrap board on two pen blanks to provide the clearance needed)

The upper end, the finial/clip will usually come out without too much problem, the centerband though can be a b#@$#. I haven't come up with a better way of removing it.
 

TomW

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Joined
Mar 23, 2009
Messages
1,436
Location
Allen, Texas
Sliding is normal. It is the slight resistance that your hand provides that causes the pen parts to begin to move. Sometimes I may have to hit the punch 15 or 20 times, but once it starts moving, it comes along nicely.

I generally hold the part in my hand and hit the punch driving the assembly towards my belly (Good cushion there). The pen barrel moves with every strike, but eventually the pen component will begin to move.

Tom
 

jleiwig

Member
Joined
Jan 10, 2007
Messages
1,860
Location
Monroe, Ohio, USA.
The pen body is easy.

drill a hole through a piece of scrap wood that's slightly larger than the threads.

with the finial in place and the section removed, place the finial in the hole (the trim band should be sitting on the board on all sides and the threads in the hole), put the punch through the open end and one whack with a hammer is all it takes.

swap the finial to the other threaded part and put it in the hole again. another whack and you're done. (put a towel or something under the hole to keep the piece from bouncing all over the shop, and I raise my scrap board on two pen blanks to provide the clearance needed)

The upper end, the finial/clip will usually come out without too much problem, the centerband though can be a b#@$#. I haven't come up with a better way of removing it.

Do you have a picture of what you describe? I'm not visualizing it here holding the pen in my hand.
 

broitblat

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Joined
Feb 9, 2006
Messages
3,226
Location
Bellevue, WA, USA.
I keep latex gloves around for working with the occasional nasty chemical. If I need to get a getter grip on a barrel for disassembly (or on the lathe to remove a chuck, etc.), I wrap one of the gloves around what I am trying to grip. That usually does the job for me.

-Barry
 

mickr

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Joined
Apr 22, 2009
Messages
1,181
Location
wilderness
wrap with a rubbery nmaterial & hold..or wrap in rubbery & put in your vise (if you have one)
 

zig613

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Joined
Jan 8, 2008
Messages
647
Location
Canada
I wrap the barrel with a thin rubber place mat (purchased at a local discount $1.00 store) to prevent any slipping. And, instead of hitting the transfer punch with a hammer, I place the punch inside the barrel and pound the end of the punch down onto a solid surface. I find there is less slipping and my hand doesn't get wacked if I miss the transfer punch with the hammer.

Wade
 
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