In search of the Thin kerf

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AceMrFixIt

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I was looking to see how to get a thinner kerf. The right one is done on the band saw, the left is on the scroll saw. Of course I had to make yet another jig.......What do ya think??
 

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marcruby

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You might also try getting some square aluminum big enough to make a mini-miter box with whatever angle cut you might want and then use it with a find handsaw. If seen some made up for jewelry that have stops built into them for repeatability.

Marc
 

chuybregts

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I like the thinner one personally, do you happen to have a photo of the jig for the scroll saw? I'm still learning to use that beast as well!

Chris
 

workinforwood

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If you really want a thin kerf, try a piercing saw with a .0095" x 61 TPI blade. Available at many jewelry supply stores.

Can't say I know what .0095 is ..sounds pretty small. I have 8/0 blades for my scroll saw..those are jewelry blades. You have to really slack back the tension because these babies are so thin and small I need to use a magnifier to see what direction the teeth go. It's like looking at a post it note on edge. Flying Dutchmen makes them. Contact Mike...http://www.mikesworkshop.com/blades.htm Excellent and fast service! He might even have smaller blades than that, and I believe he sells the drill bits in those same sizes...good luck not breaking or losing those!

As for the knot..I like the wider one. I don't like it really really wide, but 1/16 is pretty good. Part of the romance of the knot is the wide curves that give it an illusionary effect that becomes lost the thinner you go.
 

jttheclockman

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I like the one on the right more so and here is my reason. The thinner you make them the junkier they look and by that I mean you are not matching the profile to the wood. Now if you start doing 6 or 8 bands then the profile is filling up and thinner lookers better because you can see the lines more so. Now anything less than 45 degree makes the knot too big and it overwhelms the wood size. Not sure if this makes sense but in my mind it does. Whatever feature you are trying to showcase has to be in proportion with the size of the surrounding piece. It is like me putting in a small 1-7/8" clock insert in a scroll sawn clock that is 2 feet tall. Not proportional and in this case the thinner is not proportional unless you do more than 4 cuts.
 

Randy_

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I agree with John's thinking as to the geometry though not necessarily for the same reasons. I'm just not crazy about the 45° particularly with only 4 rings

Try experimenting with 22.5° or 60°. I think you are going to like either of those angles especially if you move to a six ring knot. I suspect it will not be necessary to use scroll saw cuts for your rings.......bandsaw thickness should be just fine. Now if you go to eight rings, then the scroll saw might be the choice??
 

MobilMan

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Rick. Sure appreciate the pictures. I've been kicking around the idea of which to use. I can see now the scroll saw will stay under the bench where it's been for a long time. I like the bit wider, but standard saw width is too wide [thick] The bandsaw looks cool.
 

workinforwood

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Hey now! Don't stuff the scroll saw under the bench. It's a great addition to pen turning. It's just not what you want for knots...or is it? You can make a knot with a scrollsaw in the face of a pen without it going through or all the way around the pen! Totally changes things...All a matter of imagination.
 

AceMrFixIt

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Jeff,
I used a scroll saw for years making craft stuff. Where can I see some of your tips for using it in pen turning. Saw some of your pens and thought..."How did he do that?"
Thanks,
Rick
 

fernhills

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Hellertown, PA, USA.
I have just done a 30 degree knot on BS and it is to flat (slimline) Next one will be 45 degree. I kind of like using the BS now. I always done them on the TS with a plywood blade. The BS seems a lot quicker and safer. No pic yet, my camera battery is charging.
 
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