Sandpaper grit size for squaring blanks

[anthonyd]

Hello,

What grit do you use when squaring blanks on your disc sander?

Thanks,

Tony

 

[KenV]

120 on the disc sander followed by 220 disks on the Herrell pen sander

 

[turncrazy43]

I generally use either 120 or 150 grit. It might take a little more time but it is not too aggressive. Some use the80 grit as well.
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Everyday I'm vertical is a great day

 

[anthonyd]

Thanks guys,

I will try the 120 grit.

Tony

 

[Dan Masshardt]

I keep 80 on my disc and 120 or 150 on my belt with a fence. Use the 80 if material needs to be hogged off, the 120 to get level and squared.

 

[ttalbert]

Why square a blank?

 

[Dan Masshardt]

Why square a blank?

Square off the end of the blank to the tube.

 

[BSea]

Why square a blank?

If you don't square the blank, then when you press the parts together, there will be a gab between the blank & the fitting. Not all the way around. You'll have places that touch, but others that won't, so gaps show. The more pens you do, the more you see the small imperfections. And these aren't all that small.

 

[edstreet]

Why square a blank?

If you don't square the blank, then when you press the parts together, there will be a gab between the blank & the fitting. Not all the way around. You'll have places that touch, but others that won't, so gaps show. The more pens you do, the more you see the small imperfections. And these aren't all that small.

There are numerous ways to square a blank that does not involve sandpaper, disc sanders, end mills or the like. Also much more accurate.

As for grit size goes, 80, 120, 150 and 220 is to coarse to do a good proper job, 1/3 the size of 220 would net the range you should be working in.

 

[Ulises Victoria]

KenV: What is a Herrel pen sander?

Edstreet: Could you mention and explain some of those numerous ways to square a blank that don't involve sandpaper, disc sanders or end mills?

I feel squaring blanks is one of my weak spots.
Thank you.

 

[PWL]

Ulises. Check under vendor catalogs. He is listed under rherrell.

Paul

 

[Dan Masshardt]

There are numerous ways to square a blank that does not involve sandpaper, disc sanders, end mills or the like. Also much more accurate.

As for grit size goes, 80, 120, 150 and 220 is to coarse to do a good proper job, 1/3 the size of 220 would net the range you should be working in.

Really? Numerous ways to square the ends of a blank to the tube after the tube is in that don't involve sand paper or a mill?

Do tell.

 

[Dan Hintz]

This question brought up a (semi-)random thought. On my bench 6"disc sander, I may try putting a 60 grit pad on, followed by a 3-4" 120 grit pad in the middle. I'd get both grits without having to change pads (some cutting may be necessary). I'll have ot try this...

 

[randyrls]

This question brought up a (semi-)random thought. On my bench 6"disc sander, I may try putting a 60 grit pad on, followed by a 3-4" 120 grit pad in the middle. I'd get both grits without having to change pads (some cutting may be necessary). I'll have ot try this...

That is a good idea! Some time ago I needed to make some donuts in gasket material. I took a compass and put an exacto knife where the pencil normally went. Instant circle cutter.

Added later: If you cut out the circle carefully, you will have two sets of disks.

 

[Dan Masshardt]

This question brought up a (semi-)random thought. On my bench 6"disc sander, I may try putting a 60 grit pad on, followed by a 3-4" 120 grit pad in the middle. I'd get both grits without having to change pads (some cutting may be necessary). I'll have ot try this...

That is a cool idea Dan. But for my setup wouldn't gain much because I have the belt and disk.

I'm not sure if most belt / disk sanders have a fence for the belt though. I just check / reset mine with a square and its actually more accurate than my disk table, which tends to get a little loose over time.

 

[hazmat74]

This question brought up a (semi-)random thought. On my bench 6"disc sander, I may try putting a 60 grit pad on, followed by a 3-4" 120 grit pad in the middle. I'd get both grits without having to change pads (some cutting may be necessary). I'll have ot try this...

That is a cool idea Dan. But for my setup wouldn't gain much because I have the belt and disk.

I'm not sure if most belt / disk sanders have a fence for the belt though. I just check / reset mine with a square and its actually more accurate than my disk table, which tends to get a little loose over time.

Mine came with a fence, but I've not often used it. Unsure if it's even still on there. I'll have to look later. Most of the squaring I've done with mine has been on the disc side. The belt was a rough shaper and I'd use my finger behind the belt for control.

 

[mikespenturningz]

I use 100 because it is what I have lots of. I would use 80 if I had to purchase it.

 

[edstreet]

Ok I over inflated grossly, in error to, by using 'numerous' and that was not cool for me to do that, sorry.

The second point this thread seemed to deal mostly with disc sanders and while the point that I make removes the disc sander from the problem.

The simple solution for perfect squaring of the ends is on the lathe with a chisel. You can drill, glue and square one end at the same time with out removing the blank from the lathe. 3 steps that will be spot on.

There are numerous ways to square a blank that does not involve sandpaper, disc sanders, end mills or the like. Also much more accurate.

As for grit size goes, 80, 120, 150 and 220 is to coarse to do a good proper job, 1/3 the size of 220 would net the range you should be working in.

Really? Numerous ways to square the ends of a blank to the tube after the tube is in that don't involve sand paper or a mill?

Do tell.

 

[Carl Fisher]

I do rough removal with 80 grit on the disc sander until I just tickle the brass. Then I finish with 180 or 220 on a squaring setup on the lathe depending on the material I'm working with.

 

[BSea]

The simple solution for perfect squaring of the ends is on the lathe with a chisel. You can drill, glue and square one end at the same time with out removing the blank from the lathe. 3 steps that will be spot on.

I don't know if it's the simple solution, but it's similar to the way I square up blanks. Although I don't glue the tube in the blank after I drill it. I remove the blank to glue the tube.

I 1st round the blank to about 3/4, then put it in my collet chuck. I then square the blank using a parting tool. Then I drill. I found that if I don't square it before drilling, the bit might wonder a little, and give me a hole that's out of round. Then I glue the tube, and return to the collet chuck to trim off any excess. (this squares the blank again). I also put just a bit of a concave to the blank. This guarantees me a tight fit between blank and fitting.

This may sound like a lot of work, and I'll grant you it isn't the fastest way to turn a pen, but it works well for me.

BTW, the sanding tool from Rick Herrell isn't for initially squaring a blank, it more for clean up after applying a CA finish. I guess you could use it instead of a mill or sander for squaring a blank, but it would take awhile unless the blank was really close to begin with. I do use this tool when I do a CA finish.

 

[hazmat74]

How does one make sure they are making the end perfectly square with a parting tool? I have only ever done this operation on a metal lathe and it's pretty foolproof with that machine.

 

[Carl Fisher]

I then square the blank using a parting tool. Then I drill. I found that if I don't square it before drilling, the bit might wonder a little, and give me a hole that's out of round.

Absolutely. I started doing this as well and most of my drilling issues went away.

 

[Dan Hintz]

That is a cool idea Dan. But for my setup wouldn't gain much because I have the belt and disk.

Mine is a belt/disk, too, but it's probably easier than shifting from one to the other. Run a few seconds on the outer ring for rough removal, then a few seconds on the inner ring (circle?) to smooth it off. No need to shift positions, only need one fence adjustment.

 

[Dan Masshardt]

Mine is a belt/disk, too, but it's probably easier than shifting from one to the other. Run a few seconds on the outer ring for rough removal, then a few seconds on the inner ring (circle?) to smooth it off. No need to shift positions, only need one fence adjustment.

I would be interested in your comments after the fact if you choose to try it.