Sanding question

[texaswoodworker]

This is a problem I have always seemed to have with woods such as Bethlehem Olivewood and Maple. When I sand them I tend to run into problems. There are scratches that just refuse to go away. I have tried using courser grits and higher grits but still have a hard time getting these scratches to go away. Usually by the time I finally get them to go away, the blank is thinner then I want. Is there some way that I am overlooking that can help solve this problem? Can someone please help me?

Thanks

 

[G1Pens]

After sanding with each grit size, make sure you stop the lathe and sand with the grain, turing the blank by hand. Start with the finest grit that you can. If you really need to get some wood off use the rougher grit sand with the grain and go to the next smaller grit, then sand with the grain..keep up the pattern until you get to 600 grit and finish by sanding with the grain.

I'm new and I'm sure the pros will correct me if I am wrong, but I know for me it makes a big difference.

 

[thewishman]

Aaron, what grit are you starting with?

 

[texaswoodworker]

After sanding with each grit size, make sure you stop the lathe and sand with the grain, turing the blank by hand. Start with the finest grit that you can. If you really need to get some wood off use the rougher grit sand with the grain and go to the next smaller grit, then sand with the grain..keep up the pattern until you get to 600 grit and finish by sanding with the grain.

I'm new and I'm sure the pros will correct me if I am wrong, but I know for me it makes a big difference.

G1Pens, this is what I do but the scratches still refuse to go away. They are usually small scratches that go with the grain.


Chris, I usually start with 120-150 grit or 60 grit if the wood is really hard.

 

[Mac]

Aaron, what grit are you starting with?

Good ?? Also what tool are you turning with. Example; A skew can leave you with very little sanding, if that last pass was a good one. The blank will have almost a shine to it.

 

[Mac]

Thats way to low on your grit that you start with.
I can start as high MM ,if all things work right or no sanding at all just apply finish, but most of the time I start with 400 or 600 grit.
The only reason for sanding, is to remove any tool marks left on the piece being turned.

 

[SteveG]

You probably know already that the intent of progressive sanding is first, (the very first coarse grit) remove any surface irregularities. All subsequent grits in the progression are to remove the scratch pattern from the previous grit. It is likely you are not completely removing the scratch marks before progressing to the next finer grit. This may not become evident until you have moved up to the finer grits, but the problem probably goes back to the early grits. Three things will help: start sanding at the finest grit you can, do not skip any grits in the progression, and inspect carefully at each step. Be sure to always finish each step by sanding with the grain. As your turning skills improve, you will be able to start the sanding process at higher grits. When you think you really have it all worked out, tackle an all black blank!:biggrin:

 

[thewishman]

It is hard to get the scratches out when using a coarse grit. Try starting with a 180 grit or finer, I usually start with 220. A good grade of sandpaper also helps, I really like the Norton 3X.

I wipe off the blank after each grit and in between the change of directions. I cut my sandpaper into 1/2" by 5 1/2" strips and usually only use a strip once. Sometimes it takes several strips of one grit (usually just the 220) to get the surface just right before moving to the next grit.

 

[ctubbs]

An after thought, if you are sanding with the grain using a large grit, you may be pulling the early wood out of the grain so deep that later grits can not clear the damage. I sold drafting cases in college made of cheap ply that we soaked with water until the grain rose three or fore times, sanded between each soaking and then once dry would paint a base color. Once that color dried, we painted another contrasting color and wiped off the high wood to reveal the base color allowing the second color to fill the voids. You may be doing something similar with your large grit paper. Try, just one time, starting at no larger than 400 grit then 600. Tell us about that try. My humble opinion respectfully submitted.
Charles

 

[jttheclockman]

As it has been mentioned the first thing you need to learn is to use your tools better. Upon doing so will let you start your sanding with 400 grit and then stop. If you want to take it to 600 do so but not necessary if you are adding CA as the finish or in fact any film building finish such a poly or lacquer. Starting with anything below 220 you are in definete need of sharping your tools and learning how to use them better. After each grit stop lathe and sand with the grain lightly. Now wipe everything down and move on to next grit and so on. You want to get the sanding dust out of the grain lines and pores so you may even have to use some compresssed air. The finish will fill in the grain lines to make a smooth finish.

 

[Boz]

Here is a trick I picked up watching Norm on the New Yankee Workshop. When you are done sanding using all the steps previously mentioned reach down into the pile of saw dust and shavings on the table get a big handfull and burnish the piece buy cuping your hand full of saw dust and squeeze it around the blank from the bottom as it turns. Do not wear rings or long sleaves when trying this. It does work.

 

[texaswoodworker]

Mac, I usually use a small gouge to shape the blank. I have a skew but I do not use it much because I'm not the best at using it and it is rounded which makes it hard to get a smooth surface.

Thank you everybody for the advise. I'm about to head out into the shop to see what works for me.

 

[stolicky]

Good ?? Also what tool are you turning with. Example; A skew can leave you with very little sanding, if that last pass was a good one. The blank will have almost a shine to it.

I find that the better you get with e skew the better the results. It does take practice, but keep at it.

It is hard to get the scratches out when using a coarse grit. Try starting with a 180 grit or finer, I usually start with 220. A good grade of sandpaper also helps, I really like the Norton 3X.

I wipe off the blank after each grit and in between the change of directions. I cut my sandpaper into 1/2" by 5 1/2" strips and usually only use a strip once. Sometimes it takes several strips of one grit (usually just the 220) to get the surface just right before moving to the next grit.

I echo the above. I usually cut the paper into 1" x 5 1/2" though. Probably because I just use an old 1" wide steel ruler as a cutting guide. I tend to start at 220, but I find that I could start much finer. Anything below 220 is going to give you headaches.

 

[gaeast54]

When I sand no matter if it is with 150 or 220, with each sanding, I shut down the lathe and sand with the grain. If you continue to sand and only go with the grain on the last pass you will have deeper scratches to remove. Good luck.

 

[jtrusselle]

I once had the same problem due to too coarse of a grit. I now start with 320 and, depending on the wood, jump to 800 and then MM. Good luck and keep trying...

 

[Mac]

Mac, I usually use a small gouge to shape the blank. I have a skew but I do not use it much because I'm not the best at using it and it is rounded which makes it hard to get a smooth surface.

Thank you everybody for the advise. I'm about to head out into the shop to see what works for me.

Alen Lancer is famous for rounded skew, go to youtube and search Alen Lancer Skew or round skew pratice this might help.

 

[texaswoodworker]

I tried starting at a higher grit and it worked. Thanks again for the help everyone.

Mac, I watched some of the Alen Lancer videos and the helped alot. Thanks for the help.

 

[traderdon55]

Aaron if the Reno you live in is just outside of Paris Mac and I both live within 90 miles of you and would be happy to have you visit sometime and work with you on your skew. We will also have a penturning meeting in April in Texarkana where you can pick the brains of several of us.However if you want to learn from a pro Alan Lacer will be doing a demo on the skew at the SWAT symposium in Waco the end of august.

 

[texaswoodworker]

Aaron if the Reno you live in is just outside of Paris Mac and I both live within 90 miles of you and would be happy to have you visit sometime and work with you on your skew. We will also have a penturning meeting in April in Texarkana where you can pick the brains of several of us.However if you want to learn from a pro Alan Lacer will be doing a demo on the skew at the SWAT symposium in Waco the end of august.

If I'm ever around your area, I'll have to look you up and take you up on that offer.

Thanks

 

[George417]

I usually start with 320 to 400 grit and move on up yo mm, but I'm also using a air hose connected to my air compressor to remove the sanding dust as I'm sanding. This cuts my sing time down considerably. The I start to apply the finish. Hope this helps