Sanding Jig

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tipusnr

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Is anyone using PSI's sanding jig? I've been looking at it for quite awhile as sometimes I want to square the entire blank with the tube and the pen mill doesn't go that wide.

One thing I don't understand is how it presents the blank to the sanding disk? The miter guage slot is parallel to the surface of the disk so there must be a mechanism to travel at right angles to the slot.

If there is another jig that works as well or better, for around the same money, I'd be happy to hear about it.

I'm not really interested in ways to build one myself as I'm so far behind on building jigs it's getting on my nerves. Seems I would rather turn pens than build jigs.[:I]
 
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I askerd Jason about this jig a while back and the down side was the ability to put different size kits on it.
I can't can't remember which size it was designed for.
I also have misgivings about how accurate it is.
My belt disc sander vibrates quite a bit(RYOBI)
The "table for the miter needs to be 90* to the platen on the sander,the miter track needs to be parallel to the platen.
I don't feel this is accuarate enough for my set up.
Fred NC was making sanding mills and has a thread in the build/ tips forum.
It is based on a pen mill concept and I can see where it would work well.
On another note
The PSI pen mill kit has a 3/4" cutter.
I realize that won't do an entire suare blank,but I like it for making "custom" pens.
I square the blank with the larger cutter, rough it to about 3/4 round and then add whatever pieces I need to after "parting" off.
There are some short cuts using that cutter.
In the perfect fit pen I use the lower barrel shaft (8mm) for the bottom tube and then slip an 8 mm tube over the shaft for the upper saving me the trouble of changing shafts.
 

Fred in NC

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Bill, if you have a pen mill that you are not using, try this.
Cut a piece of PSI sandpaper and punch a 1/4" hole in it. Take the mill out of the shaft. Stick the sandpaper on the flat side.
Reverse the mill on the shaft. Done. This works very well if you first sand the end of the barrel until it is very close. The sandpaper will true it up. This is what I do every day, excepting that I built it from scratch.
 

wayneis

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Tip I have it and swear by it. I use it for everything from slimlines to the statesman and everything in between. I make wood bushings for it because it was made for 7mm tubes but thats not hard to do at all. It's sturdy and as long as you aline it to your disk it will work, I believe better than anything that I have tried. I blew up too many blanks tring to square with barrel trimmers, I through them all away and only use the jig. Every pen you've seen me post has been squared with it.

If you had the ability to do some metal work it would not be hard to make one your self, but for me I feel that my time is worth more making pens so I spent the money for the jig.

Wayne
 

DCBluesman

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Tip...<b>this is NOT a jig</b>...I promise. I don't know from jigs. I'm a consultant. [:D]

It's a re-purposing of an existing tool. This sucker works better than the original! And since you are sanding rather than grinding and chipping, you have a lot more control as you approach the brass tube. [8D]
 

tipusnr

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Lou...what are you talking about? If this is humor I'm missing the joke!!

The tool I'm talking about is called the Universal Pen Blank Squaring Jig from Penn State Industries.

Or are you referring to Fred's pen mill idea.
 

wayneis

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Tip I'm sorry but I missed part of your question. As far as adjusting so that the jig is square to the disk like you said the mieter adjusts left to right and you adjust your table using a square, up and down to square the table to the disk. Then you place the jig flat on the table against the miter gauge. There is a aproxametly 1/4" rod that you slide your blank (with the tube) on. Like I said in my earlier post you will need to make some bushings for other tubes than the 7mm but thats not to hard. One trick that I learned is that I sometimes go through my pen bushings looking for some that will just fit inside the tube and use them.

Once you get it you will see how easy it is to use. The way I figure it with the blanks that I rueined with the barrel trimmer It did'nt take long to make the jig pay off because I don't have that problem again.

Wayne
 

tipusnr

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Thanks for all the information. Sounds like a good investment for under $20.00. I haven't had a problem with blow, or chip, out but when blanks go to round before getting rid of false end it has caused some design problems. I like to see what I'm working with!!
 

Fred in NC

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Thank you Lou for your comments regarding sandpaper on the pen mill.

Some of my comments on squaring barrels:

Most disk sanders are not precision tools. The table is held to a bolt or rod that sticks out from the motor or base, so it tends to flex. For this reason, even a little pressure on the table when sanding and you are no longer sanding square.

Unless you can drill a perfectly centered hole, and the blank is absolutely square, the miter that comes with a disk sander is useless. I set mine up the best I can, and then keep an eye while sanding, so I can compensate by hand.

The miter slot jig mentioned above works well IF the table has been accurately set.

Best CHEAP sander I found is from HF, 5" disk-1" belt sander. I bought it on sale for $40. The table is more solidly connected to the base ON BOTH ENDS.

My theory, and this is my opinion of course, is that it is much easier to line up the cutting surface if it is connected to the rod that goes into the tube. This is how pen mills work. Very simple concept. Very accurate too. BUT the edge does not stay sharp very long.

Two more problems with pen mills:

First, they were designed to TRIM the ends of a barrel that is cut and drilled very accurately. Such as a 2-1/32" tube in a 2-1/16" barrel. Thus very little wood is cut. No need for a power tool (drill or drill press) to use it. The more wood you have to cut the sooner it gets dull.

Second, I don't like using a mill in a power tool. I rather put a wood handle on it. THIS IS MY PERSONAL OPINION. I respect yours if it is diffeent, OK ?

I use my disk sander to get close to the tube. I use the miter as a guide, but keep an eye on the brass tube. I compensate by eye and hand. The last little bit of sanding is done with my "sandpaper on a shaft" jig. This is the same as reversing the pen mill, and using PSA sandpaper on the flat side. If you are going to do this, by all means put a wood handle on the shaft, it makes a world of difference.

In practice it takes me a lot less time to square the barrel ends this way. A little on the sander, and a couple turns with the jig. Also saves me a lot of time messing with a dull pen mill.

NOTE: I just explained the way I square barrels. By no means am I implying that other ways are incorrect, OK ? I took the time to explain this in case you have problems and want to try a new way. If the way you do it works for you, then it is the correct way for you. Enough said! My best regards to everyone !!!
 

its_virgil

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Tip,
Add a sanding jig to your list, make one (doesnt't take long), mark it off yuour list and you save $20 and feel good that one thing on your list has been done. Here is a picture of a sanding jig that I useed as a guide in making mine. Have fun which ever way you decide to go. I agree, making pens is more fun than making jigs. But $20, hey thats 3 or 4 pen kits and just that much more fun.
Do a good turn daily!
Don
Originally posted by tipusnr
<br />Thanks Fred.

I enjoyed reading about your procedure and may well try it. I'm losing nothing in giving it a shot am I!

20041215163350_jigphoto.jpg
 

thostorey

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Fred, can you describe, or better yet show us a picture of the jig you replaced your barrel trimmer with? I'm interested in the materials you used. I've been looking at washers and bolts and the like trying in my head to design a working trimmer. It would be simpler to cobble together a tool from a proven design and parts.

Thanks!
 

Fred in NC

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Tom:

http://www.penturners.org/forum/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=1639&SearchTerms=sandpaper

This is my prototype, and I am still using it. It is even easier if you have a pen mill that you no longer use. Let me know if you need more info.
 
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