Sanding Dust In Grain

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dbriski

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I am working on a Zebra wood pen and durning the sanding phase the grain filled up with a grey dust (likely from the bushings, but possibly from the Micro mesh) Is there anyway I can salvage the pen and get the dust out of the grain? I have tried compressed air and a small brush.

Thanks,
David
 
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Dario

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Not sure if it will work but try wiping it with DNA.

If you get it cout successfully, try sealing the grain before sanding again. I usually use thin CA and it works great. Never used Zebra wood yet though.

Good luck!
 

Skye

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More likely from the bushings than from the MM. I would think DNA would be your best shot, make sure you wipe with the grain if you try again.

More than likely, if DNA wont get rid of it or compressed air (clean air), you may be screwed.

Can you turn it down a little more and try to turn off the gray?
 

chigdon

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I have these cheap buffing pads that I got from Northern Tools for a few bucks and the look a lot like the Goblet Mops (if you know what I mean). They are 3" round pads on an arbor that I keep on a drill by my lathe. After I sand and before I apply a CA finish I hit my pens with the pad loaded up with some white diamond for a just a second. This clears out the grain before finishing very well.
 

Dario

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Maybe someone else knows how but I am out.

If the style is a bit bulbous, maybe you can cut it a bit more and shave the area with sanding dust? Just a thought.
 

jtate

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How about wrapping it with tape and then unpeeling the tape? erhaps the dust will cling to the tape and come off with it. Then DNA to remove residual stickiness.
 

Draken

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I've had better luck removing that type of dust with BLO than with DNA. It will change the look (color) of the wood a bit. I think the change looks great on zebrawood.

Cheers,
Draken
 

Ron Mc

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David,
If you make another one be sure and clean the blank in between each grit of sand paper and MM.[;)]
 

ctEaglesc

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In no way was it the MM so lets dispell that rumor.*
In the future try using a sealer before sanding,It will"harden" the fibers and make sanding easier.
Blow of the sealer dust before proceding.
The sealer can be CA if you wish.
Also you might try <b>intentionally </b> coating the bushings with CA to stop color transfer


Edit in
*{It is possible that your MM is dirty and something you sanded previously is staining your blank but my guess is as you surmised it is the bushings.}
 

jaywood1207

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Something I have done and works sometimes is to use an old toothbrush to "brush" out the sanding dust in the grain. Sometimes it works and sometimes it doesn't. If it is really annoying me because of the looks and it's only minor then I have on occasion picked it out with an exacto knife.
 

Ron Mc

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David,
I just use a sanding sealer between each sanding interval from 600 grit on. I don't use it in between the MM grits. Really no need. When you get to the MM just wipe the blank down before proceeding to the next.
 

chigdon

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Out of curiousity what sand paper are you using before the micromesh? I quite using black wet dry paper at all on pens because I got tired of it turning my white or light colored woods grey (sound familiar). I use the 400 and 600 finkat papers from Craft Supply exclusively now (not that their aren't others) and it eliminated the problem for me 100% -- and I don't try to hard to avoid the bushings.

I also agree that it is NOT the MM.
 

dbriski

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I used the Rolls from woodcraft for my 150-400 grits and then use the MM. I know it wasn't the micromesh itself creating the dark dust but the Mesh being loaded with old dust or dust from the bushings.

Thanks for all the help, I tried a few more things to clean it out and decided just to finish it and make a new one. It will take less time than tring to clean this one out, and I ordered extra supplies. I'll be sure to use a sanding sealer this time.
 

Skye

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Throw the MM in a sock or something and put that in the washing machine. Just dont run it through the dryer.
 
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