Rust-oleum metalic finish and epoxy

[Dan_F]

For painting the inside of acrylic tubes, I've seen some reference to Rust-oleum metallic spray paint. I picked up a can of silver colored RO "Bright Coat" today, and am wondering about how long one should wait before using epoxy to glue the tubes in. I've seen a few comments about glue melting it if it hasn't cured properly, but it seems that was with CA. It seems to dry to the touch withing several minutes, would there be any problem gluing with epoxy without waiting overnight to cure? How long do you wait?

Thanks,

Dan

 

[stevers]

Most wait over night, of course that's when they painted it in the eve. Dry to the touch is not cured. You'll find it will still scratch with a finger nail.
Not real sure about the epoxy melting the paint part. I would think once the paint is "cured", the epoxy shouldn't affect it to much.
Any one else with input???

 

[redfishsc]

I use that combo all the time.

The epoxy has something in it that CAN melt the Rustoleum. I ALWAYS let the tubes dry for a couple days, and if I can let them bake in the window or out in the hot sun, I'll do it.

I also spray the inside of the blanks, and turn them on their side after spraying and initial drying so the inside can offgass properly.

Normally when I make a small pile of acrylics, I'm not in a hurry so I can wait a couple of days. Thus far not a single failure IF I wait. When I try to rush it, I fail.


If I'm in that much of a hurry, the silver sharpie will do OK for one or two pens.

 

[gwilki]

Dan
I've gone to leaving mine overnight - say 12 hours in all. I use epoxy, too, and it wasn't the glue melting the paint that was giving me trouble. It was just the friction of the tube scraping away the soft paint. Longer drying time has solved that.

 

[Dan_F]

Thanks guys, looks like patience remains a virtue. Guess I'll have to learn to get ahead of myself. That's the nice thing about working with wood, one can be more spontaneous.

Dan

 

[redfishsc]

Thanks guys, looks like patience remains a virtue. Guess I'll have to learn to get ahead of myself. That's the nice thing about working with wood, one can be more spontaneous.

Dan

There are a LOT of acrylics you can also be spontaneous with. Any that are gold colored will blend in perfect with the brass. Cinnamon Twist from Beartooth Woods is very pretty, I have one customer who will order a dozen cigars at a time in the stuff.

Also, Corian/High Macs scrap make sweet slimlines and is totally opaque.

PolyGem and Acryligem from HUT is totally opaque and requires no paint, and some of those are very pretty blanks (and some of them just look like cheap modeling clay unfortunately).

 

[Dan_F]

There are a LOT of acrylics you can also be spontaneous with. Any that are gold colored will blend in perfect with the brass. Cinnamon Twist from Beartooth Woods is very pretty, I have one customer who will order a dozen cigars at a time in the stuff.

Also, Corian/High Macs scrap make sweet slimlines and is totally opaque.

PolyGem and Acryligem from HUT is totally opaque and requires no paint, and some of those are very pretty blanks (and some of them just look like cheap modeling clay unfortunately).

I've been thinking more about looking for opaques, don't have a good enough handle on what is and what isn't going to hide the tubes without painting. Will take a look at some of the ones you suggest. Wouldn't want to limit myself to opaques though, too many nice "deep" translucents.

Dan

 

[monkeynutz]

Woodcraft has recently added a line of opaques to their selection, although I have not tried them yet.