rifle casin pens.

[Norsky]

Hi all
I have been lurking here for a while and have gotten some great information.
I am sure that some instructions on how to make pens with rifle casings have been posted,but I am unable to find them.
Would appreciate info on where to look.Thanks
Sid

 

[ctEaglesc]

Well since things are quiet.
To my knowledge there has not been a tutorial posted, there have been some explanations but I wouldn't make them the way I have seen some described and sell them.
I have made a few. I was not the first, mine are no means the best(best being an objective term)
In viewing others I can say that I make mine differently because I am not limited to one stlye of pen , components or casing caliber.
I would suggest you use the search function for "casing" or "bullet pens" or "antler casing" "hunters pen" is another one(one of the first displayed) There are a lot displayed in "show off your pens" and it will save you time.
Then I would read this thread.
http://www.penturners.org/forum/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=4475
Good luck! I am sure you will get some more replies.

 

[Norsky]

Thanks,I'll keep looking and try to make them my way
Sid

 

[timdaleiden]

Hi Sid,

There are quite a few variations on how these are made. I am not sure everyone does theirs the same way either. I make tenons on the wood or antler that the brass will fit over. I make sizing rings out of the same size cartridge that I am going to use. That cuts down on all of the measuring. They really are not that hard to do. Make sure you are using "un-primed" new, or "spent" shells.

If you run into an obstacle, just post it here. Somebody will try to help you out.

 

[KKingery]

I think it's just a learning process. That's how I've been trying them. My biggest obstacle so far is just drilling out the primer end. (I know I definately need some metal working drill bits!) I also have'nt found a great way to hold the casing while drilling it, without scratching, etc..

 

[timdaleiden]

Originally posted by KKingery
<br />I think it's just a learning process. That's how I've been trying them. My biggest obstacle so far is just drilling out the primer end. (I know I definately need some metal working drill bits!) I also have'nt found a great way to hold the casing while drilling it, without scratching, etc..

Here ya' go.

<br />

Drilling a two step hole in the clamp will keep you from pushing the shell all the way through. I wrap some 4oo grit sandpaper (grit towards shell) around the shell. I always use some oil in the dimple too. It works great.

 

[smoky10]

Sid you will get a bunch of different answers here. Everyone does it a little different.
Ken, I hold mine with a pair of pliers that I ground the jaws down a little and covered with a piece of leather-real leather. I also drill them out with 3 different size bits. Start with a pilot hole and work up to the size you want. You will get several suggestions as to how to do this also.

 

[ctEaglesc]

You mean you guys don't knock the spent primer out and use the remaining machined hole as a center hole?
It seems it would be more accurate if you did.
I started using a long thin drill bit inserted from the "neck" end and a hammer but the tool that is made to do it costs about $4.95 for a 30 caliber shell, gun stores carry them.

 

[rtparso]

For holding them while drilling I took 2 blocks of oak clamped them together and drilled a hole the size of the neck and then the case. I then sanded a little off the face so the casing would not spin any more[]. For getting out the primer I use a punch from the inside and a block with one hole the size of the case and a deeper one a little larger then the primer. I like using the casing whole and found some brass tubing that is 5/16" (0.3125â€) OD by 0.2485"ID. Next one will be with cut shells just for variety. I think that the less time we spend figuring how to do what someone else has done the more time I can spend learning something new. I work in science and if we had to reinvent everything Boeing would be making neat biplanes.

 

[ctEaglesc]

"I think that the less time we spend figuring how to do what someone else has done the more time I can spend learning something new."

If you learn how to do it without someone leading you by the hand it will be new-to you.
Doing is learning,repeating doesn't create anything new and doesn't give you any experience in problem solving.It isn't the end result, its what you learn along the way.

 

[swm6500]

Sid, I have not tried them yet, but I probably will eventually. When I do it will probably be a fly by the seat of your pants experience until I figure out a few things.

 

[timdaleiden]

Originally posted by rtparso
<br /> I think that the less time we spend figuring how to do what someone else has done the more time I can spend learning something new. I work in science and if we had to reinvent everything Boeing would be making neat biplanes.

I agree Ron. I still remember my first pen and how scary it was. I was lucky enough to have found Russ Fairfield's web-tutorial, and I am sure it saved me a lot of trial and error. I am pretty sure I printed it out, and had it laying nearby when I was at the lathe and when I was assembling the pen.

Shortly thereafter, I found the Yahoo penturners group. There was no IAP at the time. There was so much info in the FAQ and files area, that it saved me a lot of headaches. Many people had contributed to the collective information over quite a few years. I am very grateful for their contributions.

I firmly believe that a little bit of solid educational material does not interfere with the creative process, it enhances it.

 

[timdaleiden]

Originally posted by cteaglesc
<br />You mean you guys don't knock the spent primer out and use the remaining machined hole as a center hole?

I have only used un-primed shells. The dimple I was referring to is the concave portion of the shell. There is a small machined hole within that. Perhaps my terminolgy was not the best here, I am no weapons expert.

 

[jwoodwright]

This should help...

The Cartridge Case

By Chuck Hawks

Among the key components of a metallic centerfire cartridge (bullet, powder, primer, and case) it is the cartridge case that is by far the most expensive and durable. This simple fact is what makes reloading possible and practical.

The case is the "bottle" that holds the bullet (the "cork" if you will) at the front, the powder inside that powers the bullet on its trip down the barrel, and the primer in its base that sparks the burning of the powder when it is dented by the firearm's firing pin. The case not only holds everything together, it forms a gas seal crucial to the shooter's comfort and safety when the arm is fired. The high pressure generated by the expanding gasses released by the burning powder when a gun is fired cause the case to expand slightly, tightly sealing the chamber and preventing the blow-back of gas toward the shooter. The concept of the case is what made single chamber repeating firearms practical and immensely speeded reloading.

Cartridge cases have been made from copper, mild steel, aluminum, and brass.
Brass cartridge cases are formed from a round disc (called a "blank") of metal that is drawn to its ultimate shape in a series of steps.



Reloadable cartridge cases use a centrally located primer (thus "centerfire") of the Boxer type. Boxer primers use a self-contained anvil. Cases for use with Boxer primers have a single flash hole in the center of the primer pocket that allows the explosion of the primer to ignite the main powder charge. These are the cases that are normally reloaded, as the primer is easily removed (decapped) by a decapping pin centrally located in a reloading die. All U.S. made (and many European) brass cartridge cases use Boxer primers and are reloadable with standard reloading dies.