Review my cart..

[jamesbil]

Hi all,
New to pen turning and about to make my first kit purchase. Due to the poor Euro € to Sterling and dollar rate I will be buying from timberbits in Australia.
This works out about $156, £104, €145 incl shipping

Could you have a quick look over my cart and tell me if anything is missing or if its good value. Any advice at all is welcome.

Thanks.

SKU Product Qty Price Discounts Subtotal
A0013Bushings - Elegant Beauty and Lucida 1 $7.50 $7.50
B043 Executive Sierra Pen Kits (Upgrade Gold) 2 $8.50 $17.00
D032 Sierra Pen Kits (Upgrade Gold) 2 $6.10 $12.20
A0022Bushings - Sierra 1 $4.00 $4.00
B100 Bullet Pen Kit (Chrome) 1 $6.50 $6.50
A0202Bushings - Bullet 1 $5.00 $5.00
B024 7mm Broad Pen Kits (Gold) 4 $2.00 $8.00
B119 Lucida Pen Kit (Chrome) 2 $9.00 $18.00
B074 JR Pen Kits (Rollerball - Gold) 2 $6.00 $12.00
B031 Sedona Rollerball (Upgrade Gold) 2 $10.00 $20.00
B079 BA Pen Kits (Rollerball - Trivalent Chrome) 2 $10.00 $20.00
A0143Bushings - JR 1 $5.00 $5.00
A0009Bushings - Baron & Sedona 1 $5.00 $5.00
B016 Pen Mill 6 Cutter Head Set 1 $19.99 $19.99
D001 Adjustable Pen Mandrel (MT2) 1 $16.00 $16.00
B075 JR Pen Kits (Fountain Pen - Gold) 1 $6.00 $6.00
B033 Sedona Fountain (Upgrade Gold) 1 $10.00 $10.00
B041 BA Pen Kits (Fountain Pen - Chrome) 1 $10.00 $10.00
Delivery Method: Express International Shipping $0.00 $0.00

Quote Subtotal $202.19
Total Shipping $0.00
GSTInc. $18.38
Quote Total $202.19

 

[Quality Pen]

Value is really up to the individual.

What are your goals?

If anything I believe that if you polled all IAP they would have a majority vote against buying "gold plate" anything. It's simply not that durable. I recommend titanium gold or nothing.

Also for beginners the mandrel saver can be handy if you don't want to turn between centers. I think everyone goes through a bent mandrel phase

But really... everything depends on what YOU want. You'll have a good time and enjoy the challenge regardless!

 

[jamesbil]

Thanks,

I was wondering about the gold.
Does the live centre not go up to the end of the mandrel?

 

[wyone]

The difference with the mandrel saver is that the live center does not push against the end of the mandrel shaft itself, and the blank is held with the brass nut. On the mandrel saver, the mandrel actually slides INSIDE the tailstock portion and presses directly against the bushings holding the blank. It virtually eliminates bending the mandrel shaft plus it makes it very fast to make any changes. I would not go back to a standard mandrel unless I had to. I have found the mandrel saver helped me a lot, plus it was easier and faster.

I agree about the finishes. My wife is the one who helps me pick those out and also tells me that gold is not as "in style" as finishes like satin nickel and such. I like gunmetal for bolt actions and some of that style. I am not much of a fan of Chrome myself. With the right blank any finish can work, but I learned that putting a nicer finish against my finished blank made the pen look much nicer.

One thing I did notice was most of your choices are one of a kinds. I like the idea for finding what you like, but I also know if you are just learning, you might want to just pick out one or two styles and get multiples of them in different finishes.

That way you will be able to develop your skills for that style and also be able to try different finishes with different blanks. There are definitely different skills needed for different pen kits.

I know my first purchase was a set of various slimline kits in a starter package. I am not sure that is ideal as slimlines can be tricky at times, but it is also less costly if you have failures. If you are like me, and just beginning, you will have failures and it is easier to deal with if they are less costly.

You might also want to consider some extra tubes for the kits you choose, so that if you do have failures, the kit is not incomplete then.

Those are just my thoughts. I have no idea of your skill level or what you intend to do with the pens you make, but those are my thoughts.

Good luck and happy turning

 

[Quality Pen]

It can... the mandrel saver is this thing here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4z1HNgAJ7z4

If I was going to start out and use a mandrel, I would use it. When people start turning for the first time, I think it's probably one of the most common problems -- bending their mandrel.

The mandrel saver HELPS to avoid this (does not eliminate it) and costs about the same amount. That's why it's better than just a regular mandrel in my opinion.

I prefer to turn between centers, however. Some say that it's more advanced, some say it's not. Some people write with Bics too...

 

[TBCbushings]

I would go with turn beetween centers...But if you have a mandrel saver its better than using the live center...my .02 worth..

 

[jamesbil]

Thanks guys, exactly what I was after.

Mitch, which ones are one of a kinds? I want to go with standard ones really so I can get good at them.

Brian, does TBC require different bushings or centres?

 

[JimB]

I agree with the others on the choice of platings. Try a few gold if you want but I would get other platings that wear better and to give a better variety.

As mentioned, you might want to get extra tubes. Also, do you needed finishes or do you have what you need?

For TBC you will need a 60 degree dead center and 60 degree live center. As far as bushings, I use the regular bushing but some folks buy other bushings. They get them from members on here.

 

[Cwalker935]

Thanks guys, exactly what I was after.

Mitch, which ones are one of a kinds? I want to go with standard ones really so I can get good at them.

Brian, does TBC require different bushings or centres?

With TBC you need a 60 degree dead center similar to this one:

http://www.amazon.com/MORSE-DEGREE-CENTER-MACHINIST-CRAFTSMAN/dp/B00PEVLY0A

You will also need a 60 degree live center. You can turn without bushings or with TBC bushings. Some folks make their own TBC bushings using delrin or some other meterial. You will need a decent caliper if you decide to go bushing free or make your own bushings. You might also want to invest in a 60 degree centering bit.

You seem to be spending alot on bushings for single kit purchases and TBC would allow you save money in the long run but it might be a little more challenging if you are just starting out. I started with a mandrel and bushings and have transitioned to TBC.

 

[csr67]

I agree with the mandrel saver idea. I started out using a normal mandrel, and quickly bent it by overtightening the tailstock. I then got a high quality adjustable mandrel from Woodsmith along with a mandrel saver and it's perfect. It also eliminates the need to use additional spacers to fill up the mandrel on single body pens.

I would have skipped the pen mill had I known about Rick's offset sanding jig from this site. Since getting the jig, I only use it and I've never taken my pen mill out of its' case. Sanding your ends square is so much more precise than using a pen mill, and it also allows me to quickly touch up the ends after CA finishing and before assembly.

 

[BSea]

Before you buy a mandrel, you should at least know about turning between centers. Personally, it's the only way I've ever made a pen. I've never even owned a pen mandrel. I read everything in the IAP library from beginning to end before I bought my lathe. I still wasted money on some things, but I at least minimized some of my spending.

Here are a few links:
http://www.penturners.org/forum/f14/question-about-turning-between-centers-130694/
http://www.penturners.org/wiki/Turning_Between_Centers
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xYFhRINVDDE

There used to be an article in the library about Turning Between Centers, but I can't find it.

 

[magpens]

If you are buying from Timberbits beware that some tube and bushing sizes are not the same as for North American-sold kits with similar names. For example, the Gent SR uses different bushings than the full-size Gent. And the Australian Bolt Action has tubes which are 0.030" shorter than the Bolt Action sold in North America.

This is meant to be a general awareness comment as you may not be buying those exact kits.

Note, also, that starting with slimlines is possibly not the best approach for beginners. Slimlines can be tricky because of their small diameter tubes and thin material thickness .... if using acrylic blanks see-through can be a problem. Slimlines can be frustrating to make, and you don't get a lot of satisfaction from the results. I recommend starting with a single tube kit, such as the Bolt Action and/or the Sierra (or Mesa, or Gatsby, or similar).

Just my 2 cents worth.

 

[turncrazy43]

If you are staring out I agree about starting out with single tube kits. They will usually will have more material left on the tube ends after turning and thus a bit more margin for error. If you turn acrylics you will need to paint the inside of your blanks before gluing in the tubes. After painting the inside of the tubes allow the paint to cure, over night. Ratter than using CA to glue your tubes after painting the inside of the blanks try using 5 minute epoxy. The epoxy will not take paint away from inside the blanks. If you decide to turn between centers, be aware they cost at least double the cost of regular bushings, but will last far longer and are far more accurate. Just my opinion. Good luck with your new hobby.
__________________________________________________
Everyday I'm vertical is a great day

 

[Smitty37]

Missed by Some - I think

I think you are making the purchase primarily because you can save a bucket load of money on shipping. I almost think Dave must have dirty pictures on the Australian minister of transport to be able to ship at what he charges. Also the relatively strong US dollar makes his goods even more attractive to Europeans.

That being said, much of the advice you have been given relative to TBC and mandrel savers etc. is probably pretty good advice.

The only thing I would tell you is that you might want to go with a smaller variety of kits to start with - bushings are high priced and you're getting a lot of them. I have an Idea that some of your buying was undertaken to get to the threshold for free shipping.

I would look into single bbl kits first and I wouldn't worry if the tube sizes differ a little from their North American counterparts - that doesn't mean much until you start looking into tubed blanks like Poly Clay and other specialities.

 

[wyone]

When I said one of a kind.. I was just referring to the fact that most of your kits are one of each style. For me, I would rather get really good at one style first, then add more styles the better I get. I do like the single barrel kits, and I agree about the turning between centers. I have a lot of two barrel kits, so I still use a mandrel because it is easier for me. For single barrel, TBC seems perfect to me

 

[Smitty37]

When I said one of a kind.. I was just referring to the fact that most of your kits are one of each style. For me, I would rather get really good at one style first, then add more styles the better I get. I do like the single barrel kits, and I agree about the turning between centers. I have a lot of two barrel kits, so I still use a mandrel because it is easier for me. For single barrel, TBC seems perfect to me

I think you are making sense. Get a lot more kits of only one or two styles and a lot less bushings...some of the kits might have quantity discounts as well making getting even more possible.

 

[jamesbil]

Thats great thanks Smitty & co..

Youre right about the exchange rate and shipping it is a major factor. (I will still shop at smittys! waiting till may)

On the advice given I will trim down the variety and buy more of the same in different finishes and do away with the slimline.

I had actually turned a few slimline years ago and found it frustrating. Turned no pens since so starting fresh really.

 

[jamesbil]

Looking again at the kits, are Lucida and executive Sierra the same pen? Or close enough to make no difference?

 

[Smitty37]

Looking again at the kits, are Lucida and executive Sierra the same pen? Or close enough to make no difference?

See if you can find the instructions for them and check if they use the same bushings and drill bits.

 

[BSea]

Looking again at the kits, are Lucida and executive Sierra the same pen? Or close enough to make no difference?

No, they look the same, but the Lucinda is a smaller pen. I think it's the same size as the Aero from CSUSA.

 

[jamesbil]

They use different bushings and drill bits, so I guess they must be a little different.
I'm thinking not different enough to warrant an extra set of bushings and more expensive kits. Not just yet anyhow..