Returning to pen turning after log hiatus

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crashgtr

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Apr 22, 2006
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Hillsborough, nj, USA.
Hi Everyone!

I recently started back trying to run pens. I have a pile of PSI kits with tubes drilled, squared and ready for turning.

I started turning a pen with the rockler carbide pen tools. I am starting to get the hang of using these but I wanted to get your opinions on a couple things that went wrong.

1- I was turning and ht to fill some voids with CA glue before final finishing, That took a little while but the voids got fixed.

2- after I fixed the voids and turned down to the approx bushing sizes,sanded then started to apply the CA glue several coats.
It did not go on smoothly so I had to sand. then snaded through the finish 4 times.
The last time I applied a lot more CA in hopes not to sand all the way through it. I used my fingers while the blank was spinning to check for smoothness.

3- It seemed smooth until after I took it off the lathe and started putting the pieces together, then I noticed some faint grooves almost in a small diagonal pattern. Not sure how to get such a patterm- any suggestions on how to avoid?

4- I used the chamfer then inserted the nib using the bench vise but instead of the nib seating nicely I noticed the pen tube starting sticking out of the back of the pen's lower half. I am guessing this is a glue failure but how could I avoid this? I have a bout 30 pen blanks cut and glued with CA from 2004-2006 that I need to turn.

any suggestions on CA finish, sanding, pen assembly is appreciated. I think I have watched all the youtube penmaking videos at least once.
 
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mredburn

IAP Activities Manager
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You can sand/ file the inside of the brass tubes so the parts just slide in and use a glue to hold them in place rather than press fit.
 

magpens

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I do what Mike Redburn suggests.

But are you using a bench vise to press your parts into the tube ? . Oh that makes me shudder !! . I am sure you must have some smooth metal or hardwood over the jaw faces to protect the pen parts.

Also, I don't understand how the tube can come out the back end of the tube when the back end is flush up against the rear vice jaw.
 

TurtleTom

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I wonder if you are using thick glue, the new Pen Turner's glue is really great stuff, it gives you a few extra seconds to situate things. Be sure to turn the blank between centers and sand or hit with a file to get to new metal.
I put a knife in my vise, blade up, before I start gluing. My routine is to put a little glue in the opposite end of the blank from insertion end, glue the tube on the tool, shove the tube into the blank, the use the knife in the vise to keep the blank from backing out of the tube when I pull the insertion from the tube. One little tap of the tube to move it a little ways away from the face and I'm done. (NOW get the knife from the vise, DAMHIKT)
 
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crashgtr

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Apr 22, 2006
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Location
Hillsborough, nj, USA.
Were they glued in 2004 to 2006, or did you just glue them with glue that old?

Curt

The tubes were glued in sometime 2004-2006 and been sitting around while I was on hiatus.
I can't recall if the tubes were sanded first then glued or just glued. In 2004 I might have not glued it correctly.
 

crashgtr

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Apr 22, 2006
Messages
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Location
Hillsborough, nj, USA.
I do what Mike Redburn suggests.

But are you using a bench vise to press your parts into the tube ? . Oh that makes me shudder !! . I am sure you must have some smooth metal or hardwood over the jaw faces to protect the pen parts.

Also, I don't understand how the tube can come out the back end of the tube when the back end is flush up against the rear vice jaw.

My vise has cork lining as to not mar the pen parts. I found it easier to use than those units sold by PSI and woodcraft.
 

magpens

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If you are using cork in your vise to protect the pen parts, the brass tube can push through the blank into the cork.

Hardwood would hold the brass tube inside the blank and prevent the result you described.
 

low_48

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Jul 1, 2004
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Peoria, IL, USA.
What grits are you using to sand the CA? Sounds like you are applying it too thickly and pushing a ridge of material as you apply it. Mountains of information on here on applying CA. Do a little search.
 

crashgtr

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Apr 22, 2006
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Location
Hillsborough, nj, USA.
I was only using the the micromesh to sand back the CA. From the videos I saw they were recommending 3 coats thin then 3 or more coats med CA. I think the foam packing I was using to apply it was part of the cause of ridges. When I work on my projects tomorrow I will apply with folded up paper towel.
 
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