Removing Wax on Blanks

Signed-In Members Don't See This Ad
T

tdj

Member
Joined
Nov 19, 2008
Messages
1
Hello everyone,

I'm completely new to the world of penturning, so I apologize for such an "easy" question; I found some sparse data on this by searching, but your up-to-date advice would be appreciated.

I recently purchased blanks completely encased in wax and there's no indication of how dry the underlying wood is (all they could say is that they've had it in their warehouse for a year).

What is the best way to proceed? I've read that I should remove the wax on the sides (but not the ends) of the blank (?with razor blade?). Then I should ... ?wrap it in paper bags? ?put it in a bucket of sawdust? Or maybe I should just remove ALL the wax, soak it in DNA, and then proceed to dry it in paper bags?
 
Signed-In Members Don't See This Ad
randyrls

randyrls

Member
Joined
Feb 2, 2006
Messages
4,829
Location
Harrisburg, PA 17112
tdj said:
I recently purchased blanks completely encased in wax and there's no indication of how dry the underlying wood is (all they could say is that they've had it in their warehouse for a year).

What is the best way to proceed?
Click to expand...

TDJ; If the source of your blanks is a pen supplies place, and you got already cut up blanks, they are normally ready to go.

Where did you get the wood, and what kind is it?

Check for a local lumber yard that handles exotic lumber. Make friends with the people there. A few gift pens wouldn't hurt. The local lumber yard here will sell me off-cuts at a discount.

If you aren't comfortable with the blanks, cut the wax off the sides with a paint scraper and put in a paper bag.

There are several methods for drying wood. Check the Library index for "Drying Wood".



PS. Your profile is a little skimpy.....
 
marcruby

marcruby

Member
Joined
Feb 22, 2008
Messages
1,175
Location
Warren, Michigan, USA.
I just turn wax off. If the wood is too wet I hit it with armorseal. Pen blanks aren't going to stay wey for very long.

Now I would really like to see a film of someone burn it off with a blow torch and discover that most waxes burn when heated enough. I wonder if you could get the blank to explode?

Marc
 
NewLondon88

NewLondon88

Local Chapter Leader
Joined
May 15, 2008
Messages
5,077
Location
Claremont NH
marcruby said:
Now I would really like to see a film of someone burn it off with a blow torch and discover that most waxes burn when heated enough. I wonder if you could get the blank to explode?
Marc
Click to expand...

Hold on .. let me go try it.





.. so .. does anyone know the number for 911 ?
 
bradh

bradh

Member
Joined
Mar 9, 2005
Messages
688
Location
Aurora, Ontario, Canada.
I would just scrape the wax off the sides. The wax is only needed on the ends to prevent the ends from drying faster than the rest and cracking.
I normally drill right through the wax when I drill the blanks.
 
Rifleman1776

Rifleman1776

Member
Joined
Dec 18, 2004
Messages
7,330
Location
Mountain Home, Arkansas, USA.
marcruby said:
I just turn wax off. If the wood is too wet I hit it with armorseal. Pen blanks aren't going to stay wey for very long.

Now I would really like to see a film of someone burn it off with a blow torch and discover that most waxes burn when heated enough. I wonder if you could get the blank to explode?

Marc
Click to expand...

Yes, that is why using a torch to remove wax is an efficient method. The wax flames off the wood very quickly. Usually before the wood gets hot enough to scorch. I have done this many times.
Scraping leaves a thin layer of wax on the wood and in the pores, doesn't really remove it. Flaming removes the wax.
Why would you want the blank to explode? Why would you think the blank might explode?
Flaming is done so quickly that a film would not be especially interesting.
 
W

Wildman

Member
Joined
Jan 12, 2008
Messages
1,390
Location
Jacksonville, NC, USA.
See no problem with using a torch to melt wax off the sides of a blank. Will still need to scrap off the wax, while applying heat. Trick is not to burn the wood just heat enough to scrap off the wax. if the torch sounds scary just borrow a blow hair dryer.

Big problem with wax, doesn't allow water to evaporate from wood.

Simplest method turn off the wax on a lathe. Let the blanks hang out for awhile before making a pen with them.
 
marcruby

marcruby

Member
Joined
Feb 22, 2008
Messages
1,175
Location
Warren, Michigan, USA.
Rifleman1776 said:
Yes, that is why using a torch to remove wax is an efficient method. The wax flames off the wood very quickly. Usually before the wood gets hot enough to scorch. I have done this many times.
Why would you want the blank to explode? Why would you think the blank might explode?
Flaming is done so quickly that a film would not be especially interesting.
Click to expand...

I'm dumb, I can't see burning off the wax so I could pop a blank on the lathe and turn it. I'd rather just pop a blank on the lathe and turn it. It's what I bought the thing for.

Aiming a torch at something flammable is something that works until it suddenly doesn't. When it doesn't I prefer to be elsewhere. Unlikely as it sounds, if water in wood converts too quickly to steam. Unlikely with a blank - unless you have luck like mine.

Marc
 
nava1uni

nava1uni

Member
Joined
Mar 30, 2008
Messages
4,936
Location
San Francisco, CA, USA.
Just turn the blank. When drilling you will be able to tell if it is too wet. If it is too wet there are several ways to dry it out. Look in the index of the library.
 
Fred

Fred

Member
Joined
Feb 18, 2007
Messages
3,557
Location
N.E. Atlanta, Georgia U.S.A.
Another TrIed and True Method to Consider ...

Well here we are again and the answers are numerous. :eek:

I highly recommend the "BOILING METHOD" as described by Steven Russell on his website located here ...

http://www.woodturningvideosplus.com/woodturning-education-articles.html

Look down the left side of the site and go read the VERY informative article on BOILING WOOD.

Not only does Steve's method effectively and completely remove ALL the wax it also will speed up the drying of the wood. Checking is almost always - there is always one in the wood pile (pun intended) - that cracks regardless of what you do to it. But, about 98.999% of the time you will have great results IF you follow his rules. BTW, the method is very cost effective when many blanks are boiled at once ...

Simply completely submerge the wood and hold it down with weights and skim off the wax as it floats immediately to the surface of the hot water. Then remove the hot wood carefully avoiding any possible wax waiting and place it into a paper bag and let it dry for a day or so inside your warm and toasty home.

If the wood is way thicker (a bowl blank maybe) than you can otherwise wait to boil, simply pre-turn it down to within 3/4" of finished size and then boil it. I have yet to lose a single blank - bowl or pen - since I have used Steve's method.

Remember this hobby is not based on how fast we all can turn items, instead it is on the lasting memories of how the treasure(s) was/were made. Maybe I was born with an immense amount of patience, but proper preparation is also a "virtue" of sorts. :cool:

IMHO, heating the wax to remove it using other methods as described above can often drive the wax deeper into the tissues - not good - and thus problems in finishing are always possible depending way too often on the type of wax used.

Try the Russell boiling method on any green wood or heavily waxed wood and see if you don't have better ... much better results! I bet you will! :wink:
 
el_d

el_d

Member
Joined
Apr 26, 2007
Messages
3,368
Location
Lockhart, Tx, USA.
If your going to measure moisture content with a moisture meter just pierce thru the wax with the prongs of the meter. If not turn it and see if you get all wet.:wink:
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Previous Next
Top Bottom