RECOMMENDED LATHE SPEEDS

[leodelion]

BEING A FAIRLY NEWCOMER TO :coffee: PENMAKING, I WONDER WHAT ARE THE RECOMMENDED LATHE SPEEDS...1.DRILLING THE BLANKS...2.TURNING THE BLANKS...3.FINISHING THE BLANKS. I HAVE READ QUITE A FEW DIFFERENT ANSWERS, AND WONDER IF THERE ARE SOME BALLPARK GUIDELINES. THANKING ALL IN ADVANCE

 

[alphageek]

I'll start with turning - the answer is as fast as you are comfortable with. I turn me pens at the top belt of my jet (3975 RPM).

Drilling, slower is better - I tend to do around 1000, but I think I'm faster than the majority there....

And finishing is hard as it depends a lot on how you finish.

 

[tim self]

1. As slow as it goes is best for heat. 2. Turning, how fast can it go? Thats how fast I go. 3. Slow back down for application of CA and turn it back up for wet sanding.

 

[jcm71]

For you Shopsmith guys/gals: Drill/bore on A, Turn on R, finish on M. Just the way I do it.

 

[Xander]

1) Drilling = slow, for me about 600rpm
1b) Squaring blank, slow - 600
2) Turning = fast, about 3000rpm
3) Applying CA, slow - 600
4) Sanding/polishing = fast - 3000

 

[76winger]

For you Shopsmith guys/gals: Drill/bore on A, Turn on R, finish on M. Just the way I do it.

What - There's a setting other than "A" on the Shopsmith? :biggrin:

Seriously,
I'll turn it up around "F" or "G" when turning and then back it down to "A" for sanding and MM'ing.

 

[Jim Burr]

Drilling is as low as I can go...150rpm on my big Jet. Turning, 2-3000 is where I'm comfy. Finishing is always with CA and I apply it at turning speed. YMMV

 

[leehljp]

Any speed you want if it works for you.

BUT, Drilling - slower towards 1000 give or take 10 to 15%.

Sanding, Slow as I can go, . . . becasue with high speed - it will wear out MM quick or burn the CA causing white "diggs" on hardened but not yet cured CA. The CA will melt in a spot, ball up and and cause scratches, in this case.

Buffing - for me higher speeds but ONLY if the CA is cured, not just hardened.

Turning from Square: For me - as fast as I can but with tiny bites until one portion/section or spot is round and then move down the line slowly.

ON occasion with particular segments with woods and metal, as fast as I can for the final turns. With a just sharpened blade and hard or stabilized wood, light cuts on the final turning will or can leave the wood/segments as smooth as sanding does. This will eliminate the need for sanding and prevent sanding dust from smearing on the wood portions.

CA applications - slow

I have a Rikon with a PSI VS. LOVE that VS!

 

[jcm71]

For you Shopsmith guys/gals: Drill/bore on A, Turn on R, finish on M. Just the way I do it.

What - There's a setting other than "A" on the Shopsmith? :biggrin:

Seriously,
I'll turn it up around "F" or "G" when turning and then back it down to "A" for sanding and MM'ing.

Try getting that puppy up to R or better when turning. Think you'll like the results.

 

[ed4copies]

1) Drilling = slow, for me about 600rpm
1b) Squaring blank, slow - 600
2) Turning = fast, about 3000rpm
3) Applying CA, slow - 600
4) Sanding/polishing = fast - 3000

1b) When you are turning a square, there are gaps between the corners---The faster these rotate, the less chance you have to move the tool into the blank and help it shatter.

4) The faster you sand, the more you will heat up the blank. Be aware.

 

[gallianp]

Hint -- all caps are for yelling!

You have gotten very good answers..

Good questions.
paul

 

[Xander]

1) Drilling = slow, for me about 600rpm
1b) Squaring blank, slow - 600
2) Turning = fast, about 3000rpm
3) Applying CA, slow - 600
4) Sanding/polishing = fast - 3000

1b) When you are turning a square, there are gaps between the corners---The faster these rotate, the less chance you have to move the tool into the blank and help it shatter.

4) The faster you sand, the more you will heat up the blank. Be aware.

1b) SQUARING, as in making ends square to the tube.. with a pen mill in drill chuck.
4) wet sanding and MM - never had a heat problem