Questions on using stabilized woods.

[PapaTim]

Help!
I'm a noob that wants to try some stabilized wood but don't want to hose it up. Up to now I've only turned regular wood so far. I have some stabilized figured poplar I bought to make a sierra pen and cigar pencil for my wife. Here's what I know:
1. Use sharp tools.
2. When you think your tools are sharp enough, sharpen them more.
3. Don't drill through the blank, leave it long and cut to size after drilling.
4. Take light cuts.

Questions:
I'll be drilling on the lathe (slowest speed) with new drillbits. Should I stop every so often to let things cool or is going slow and clearing often adequate?
I use sumo glue for regular wood and I love it. Is it as good for stabilized wood or should I use thick CA or epoxy?
After rounding over I'll use a skew for shaping. Which grit should I start sanding with. Should it be dry, or wet?
Is working with stabilized wood similar to working with acrylics? If this goes well I'm thinking of trying them soon. How about burls? Which of the 3 is easiest? hardest?
Are there any other tips or tricks I need?
Thanks for all the help you folks provide. It's what gives me the confidence to try something new. Photo's will be forthcoming if all goes well but it'll take a while. Can only work at the lathe 10 to 15 minutes at a time and about an hour a day total.

 

[mickr]

wow, it ain't rocket science..it's just wood that has resin in it. you have provided all your own answers in the post....go make the pen

 

[hunter-27]

Help!
I'm a noob that wants to try some stabilized wood but don't want to hose it up. Up to now I've only turned regular wood so far. I have some stabilized figured poplar I bought to make a sierra pen and cigar pencil for my wife. Here's what I know:
1. Use sharp tools.
2. When you think your tools are sharp enough, sharpen them more.
3. Don't drill through the blank, leave it long and cut to size after drilling.
4. Take light cuts.

Questions:
I'll be drilling on the lathe (slowest speed) with new drillbits. Should I stop every so often to let things cool or is going slow and clearing often adequate?
I use sumo glue for regular wood and I love it. Is it as good for stabilized wood or should I use thick CA or epoxy?
After rounding over I'll use a skew for shaping. Which grit should I start sanding with. Should it be dry, or wet?
Is working with stabilized wood similar to working with acrylics? If this goes well I'm thinking of trying them soon. How about burls? Which of the 3 is easiest? hardest?
Are there any other tips or tricks I need?
Thanks for all the help you folks provide. It's what gives me the confidence to try something new. Photo's will be forthcoming if all goes well but it'll take a while. Can only work at the lathe 10 to 15 minutes at a time and about an hour a day total.

Treat it basicaly the same as any wood. Sumo glue is fine. drilling short, while not an absolute , will not be a bad plan either, If you are good with the skew your sanding should start at around 320 or finer I would imagine. Similar to acryics? Kinda, not really. Acrylics are kinda a different game. ( at least for me) Hope that helps.

 

[BigguyZ]

Your post sounds more appropriate for inlace acrylic than anything else.

You need sharp tools, but that's something you always need. But I wouldn't be concerned about not drilling through or letting it cool down while drilling. I also am one to prefer faster speeds for drilling, not slow speeds. Leads to a cleaner cut.

But regardless, just treat it like any other wood, and do your due diligence with preparation and turning the blank. If the worst case scenario happens, you can always get more wood.

Post the results and let us know how it went!

 

[thewishman]

Most stabilized wood is very easy to work, easier than acrylics. I turn and finish it like other woods. I find that figured poplar looks best with no finish. You can wet or dry sand stabilized woods.