Questions on pen turning on a metal lathe...

Signed-In Members Don't See This Ad

EarlD

Member
Joined
May 5, 2011
Messages
585
Location
Albany, GA
I just received my Micro-Mark 7x16 metal lathe this week and started using it yesterday. Drilling out a blank was much better...the variable speed and reverse feature helps.

I also turned a blank down to "close" to size, but took it off and finished it off on my wood lathe with the Woodchuck Pro. The blank tapered on both ends (Patriot) and I wasn't comfortable trying to taper on the metal lathe.

My question is how do youtaper on a metal lathe?

Do you get as good a cut as with a wood lathe? I had some minor chipping and plan to adjust the cutter height next time. I think I had it dead center of the blank today.

At first I had the cutter perpendicular to the blank which makes the left edge and the point the cutting edge. I tried skewing the cutter slightly left so that the front edge cut as it moved left. This seemed better to me. What do you do?

I haven't purchased any replaceable tip cutters yet. I know the Woodchuck Pro made a huge difference for me. Do you use them or HSS or Carbide cutters.

Is there a tool rest available that would allow using regular wood chisels when desired?

Thanks for the help!

EarlD
 
Signed-In Members Don't See This Ad

Daniel

Member
Joined
Jan 1, 2004
Messages
5,921
Location
Reno, NV, USA.
I have used my metal lathe to make lots of pens. All of them are turned to close to size and then finished by hand on my wood lathe. I make slimlines straight barrel 100 at a time this way.

Some wood turns better than others. as for profiles for hte cutting bit. there are tons of them. I like a profile with a low rake angle with a feed from right to left. The idea is that the bit does not bite into the wood as aggressively but is doing more of a scraping type cut. For a close to size cut rough is just fine though.

A smoother cut with no chatter is a matter of turning speed and feed rate.

I have found that carbide insert tools bits work much better than the HSS ones.

as for how to do a taper. It cannot be really explained in just a few words. but the tool carriage is adjusted so the tool bit can be hand cranked past the turning and cut the proper angle. at least that is one way. I think the tail stock can be intentionally set of center in some cases as well.

Lots of math involved with the use of a metal lathe if you want to get real accurate results.

you can have tools rests made, The little machine shop may have one that will fit your lathe as well. they are held in the tool bit holder. I have one but it is not that realiable of a rest. Plan to have one made preferably by a penturner.
 

BigShed

Member
Joined
Feb 14, 2008
Messages
1,068
Location
Adelaide, SA, Australia.
Like Daniel, I use my metal lathe to turn acrylic blanks to close to final size and finish up on the wood lathe. Have often said that I should really make a toolrest for the metal lathe, but haven't done so yet. My wood lathe has variable speed and reverse as well.

Taper turning is a more complex issue and I have done some smaller short tapers by setting the compound slide to the desired angle, but for longer tapers a taper attachment is needed and I haven't made one of those yet.

One thing that helps in changing from metal lathe to wood lathe, and vice versa, is the use of collets. I use ER25 collets to hold most of my pen work and have ER25 collet chucks for both lathes and 2 sets of collets, so I can just change from one to the other without having to remove and change collets.

I use HSS mostly on acrylics as it tends to give a better finish, it is just a matter of learning how to sharpen the HSS, plenty of info on the net on that subject.
 
Last edited:

Texatdurango

Member
Joined
Apr 23, 2007
Messages
4,649
Location
Show Low, Arizona
Earl, Unless you are making a long tapered dip or desk pen I wouldn't fool with cutting a taper. Once you figure out the angle, setting up for taper cuts is as simple as loosening a few nuts, rotating the cross slide, tightening again then pressing on using the hand dial on the cross feed to advance the tool cutter rather than the large carriage hand wheel.

As mentioned above, get a good set of ER-32 collets and holders. My metal lathe uses a #3 morse taper holder and I have three ER-32 collet holders for my wood lathes. It is sure nice to put a blank in the collet in the metal lathe, cut down to size then simply take the blank and collet over to the other lathe.

When I make a pen I will turn it down to a 1/2" cylinder for example on the metal lathe THEN move it to the wood lathe to taper down just the end. The reason I do this is that I like to taper the end down just enough for the cap to post but still want most of the body to be 1/2" which isn't a true taper.

I modified a cheap cutter and attached a square carbide cutter similar to the Woodchuck and other such tools. I buy the replacement cutters for approx $1.25 ea on sale in boxes of 10 from Global Tooling ( http://globaltooling.bizhosting.com/products/carbide-insert-knives.html )

I have made lots of pens on the metal lathe but have never seen the need for a "wood turning" tool rest since my Jet mini is right next to the metal lathe.
 
Last edited:
Top Bottom