Question for Yoyospin and anyone else

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PaulDoug

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I was watching Ed's video last night on doing the inlays on pen. You show modifying your parting tool so it works better and stays sharp longer. I just bought a Crown parting tool, and am thinking of your modification. Question, do you recommend this for all thin parting tools or do you do this only on one used on pen turning? I have only one thin parting tool. I'm not understanding the reason it makes it work better can you explain why it stays sharper longer?

Ed, I love your videos. You really do a super job on them.

Thank you
 
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YoYoSpin

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Paul,

To be completely honest, a master of the trade (Chris Stott) told me to do it that way. Since he was the original "inventor" of the commercially available thin parting tool, I figured he knew what he's talking about :).

Really, I think it had to do with geometry and the amount of surface area at the cutting tip. With the off-the-shelf tip ground down, there's less thin tapered metal sticking out over your tool rest, hence less vibration and more stability. Then with the little notch cut, there is a "just right" angle on the business end that tends to stay sharp longer...seems to work...that's my story, and I'm sticking to it.
 

PaulDoug

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Thanks for the info. To try it or not to try it....that is the question. Can't see where it would hurt the tool, worse case it is a little shorter.
 

KenV

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Juneau, Alaska.
If you want to try the tricks for low cost, get a high speed steel power hack saw blade and grind the teeth off. You can shape it and try it several ways. Slab handles with epoxy work.

Sawzall blades have HSS teeth welded on spring steel backs and I have carefully thinned the teeth and removed the set to use as "special parting tools" -- angled to get into corners.

You may also want to try a bimetalic hacksaw (blade in the frame with teeth pointed forward) to cut It allows very controlled cuts by moving the teeth forwards and backwards to clear the swarf. With a light touch, works on brass and aluminum.
 

great12b4ever

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Houston, Texas, USA.
Paul, I have ALL of my bought thin parting tools with the notch cout out like Ed describes and I am very happy with the results. Very few trips to the grinder.
I also have made a few special ones with the HSS Power Hacksaw blades like Ken said and they work well. I have also made a few shop knives and smaller chisels out of the Power hack-saw blades. Try both, you will be satisfied.
 

PaulDoug

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Originally posted by KenV

If you want to try the tricks for low cost, get a high speed steel power hack saw blade and grind the teeth off. You can shape it and try it several ways. Slab handles with epoxy work.

Sawzall blades have HSS teeth welded on spring steel backs and I have carefully thinned the teeth and removed the set to use as "special parting tools" -- angled to get into corners.

You may also want to try a bimetalic hacksaw (blade in the frame with teeth pointed forward) to cut It allows very controlled cuts by moving the teeth forwards and backwards to clear the swarf. With a light touch, works on brass and aluminum.

Are you talking a blade like these?:
http://www.acehardwareoutlet.com/(yfvmqh2raikh53zzkex2cfby)/ProductDetails.aspx?SKU=1000004710

Thanks for all the input guys, this is great info.
 
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