PSI Designer or CSU European?

[Rmartin]

I would like your opinions please!

I want to order this style kit, but I'm not sure which. They are very similar, both companies offer the better platings.

Have you made either of these?

Are they good sellers?

Thanks for any help you can offer!

 

[johnnycnc]

I have a strong preference for the CSUSA Artisan (premium series).
The quality of the parts and function sold me, along with the nicer centerband design.
The ladies seem to like these, some guys also.
They make a nice pen to use and sell.
I dislike cutting the centerband tenon, however.

 

[warreng8170]

I've turned that style kit from several vendors (although not PSI) and the CSUSA's is by far my favorite. Believe it or not one of my best selling pens is plain jet black acrylic on satin nickel in this style.

I agree with Johnny on the center band however. Takes longer from start to finish.

 

[panini]

I like the CSu Euro's, mainly the different selections of platings...PSI designer plating wears fast...

 

[Rmartin]

I have a strong preference for the CSUSA Artisan (premium series).
The quality of the parts and function sold me, along with the nicer centerband design.
The ladies seem to like these, some guys also.
They make a nice pen to use and sell.
I dislike cutting the centerband tenon, however.

I'll have a look at the Artisan.

I'm looking for a ladies pen. The slimline and the streamline just haven't been doing it for me.

One thing I liked about the PSI Designer is the center bushing they have. It has a slider piece which locks in place with an allen screw. I wonder if it would work with the CSU kits.

Start edit:

I had a look at the Artisan. It's not what I'm looking for. They don't show it with Ti and Plat platings. I use the Jr. gent II and Emperor for cap and barrel pens.

 

[jfoh]

One thing I liked about the PSI Designer is the center bushing they have. It has a slider piece which locks in place with an allen screw. I wonder if it would work with the CSU kits.

I have turned several hundred of these Euros. First a few PSI then almost 99% with CSU kits. When you first start you use the two part center bushing and you worry about being exact. After a dozen the fancy slider piece becomes something that you just do not use. I took CA and glued my two piece bushing so that about 2MM of the tendon showed and the band bushing was locked solid. Then to turn I just used a parting tool to cut the tendon to slightly over the bushing tendon size by maybe 0.5mm. Easy to finish from this point. Do not over turn the tendon or you get loose center bands. Slightly oversize makes the band fit snug and you do not have to glue them on if you do not want to.

I turned about 50 way over size spalted maple Euros. If the Euro should be 12 mm these where 16-17mm. A real large, heavy Euro. The ladies bought them all. They where very nice spalted blanks with good colors and heavy black line spalting. But the over size pens were very easy to hold and had a nice feel to them. Point is do not be afraid to make a Euro that is not exactly normal size. Bigger shows off the grain better and some people do just like a big old heavy pen to write with.

 

[jkeithrussell]

I'm confused (I stay that way most of the time). The Artisan is a rollerball: http://www.woodturnerscatalog.com/s...Pen_Kits___Artisan_Pen_Kit___artisan_pen?Args=.

What premium version of the Euro are we talking about?

 

[arjudy]

I believe that PSI carries a euro style that uses a Parker refill instead of Cross. IMHO the CSUSA kits are a better quality but if you want a Parker you will have to use the PSI kits.

 

[hilltopper46]

I believe that PSI carries a euro style that uses a Parker refill instead of Cross. IMHO the CSUSA kits are a better quality but if you want a Parker you will have to use the PSI kits.

Berea also makes Euro style pen with a parker refill. IMHO it has a nicer clip than the PSI. It has kind of a crappy transmission, though....

One thing I liked about the PSI Designer is the center bushing they have. It has a slider piece which locks in place with an allen screw. I wonder if it would work with the CSU kits.

I have found that the center band on the CSUSA Euro style pen runs slightly larger in diameter than the Berea and PSI versions of this pen. Also, I think that the diameter of the center band on the CSUSA pens varies with plating. That said, I find this to be a superior quality pen than either the PSI pen or the Berea pen, regardless of plating.

 

[mickr]

I don't really like either, tho I like the BT PSI over the Berea..I do like the Olympia from AZ..does take 2 drill bits tho...

 

[Rifleman1776]

Even though I buy other products from PSI, I avoid their pens. The platings are of questionable quality and I have experienced early failure with some.
CSUSA tells you what platings you are getting. I buy only Tn and Rhodium and have made many of the Euro style.
Don't be fazed by the tenon for the center band. I use a 1/4" parting tool to turn it down. After you have done two, you will be an expert. Not a big deal, really.

 

[Moosewatcher]

I have made about 50 Euro's for a Christian pen that I sell. I used to buy CSUSA's design a pen in 10K gold but found that they scratch to easily. I had a pen press that had a hole in the plastic tip and that would leave a mar on the CSUSA tip that I would have to rub out with auto polish. Did'nt use the hole to center the pen anymore and solved that problem but found too many scratches on them from handling. I now use PSI's Euro style pen with CSUSA's center bands. PSI pens are epoxy coated and they wear much better than non epoxy coated.