Problem: Translucent Acrylic and Painted Tubes

[ScoJo]

I wondered if the forum could help me before I end up throwing away another $5 acrylic blank.

I did my first craft fair this weekend, and I had a woman who liked a particular acrylic that I used on one pen, but wanted to know if I could make a slim with it. The pen she was looking out turned out great - it was a Sedona rollerball. The acrylic is the "Cloud" acrylic that Woodcraft sells - white and translucent with blue swirls. I used white painted tubes in it.

I bought a slim kit and another blank, and I was concerned that with the slim you'd still be able to see glue, etc. through it because parts of the acrylic are almost clear. But the problem turned out worse. Unlike some of the other acrylics I've done, when I drilled it out at 7 mm the fit with the painted tube was pretty tight. Once I was getting down to the finer micro mesh grades, I realized that there were some parts of the leading edge of the brass tubing (given the direction I put them into the blanks) where the paint was scraped off leaving enough brass showing through where it ruined the look of the pen. I ended up scrapping it as a result.

When you work with the painted tubes, it would almost seem beneficial to get a little chatter and a little bigger hole to keep from scraping the paint off the tubes when you insert them. Is there another way to prevent this from happening? I'd really like to give this pen another shot, especially because it is my first "custom" request. Any help you have would be appreciated. At the prices I'm charging as a relatively new turner, I'll be lucky to break even on this one if I end up with any more waste.

 

[sumterdad]

Have you tried reverse painting the blank and painting the tube. Since I started reverse painting I have not had a problem.

 

[cionow777]

I agree with Chris. I had this same issue and was about to give up until I read about painting the inside of the blank and the tube. This seems to have fixed the issue for me.

Kevin
Alabama
www.mazurkapens.com

 

[pianomanpj]

Reverse painting the tube definitely helps, but avoiding the scraping can still be problematic. But using dyed epoxy to glue in the tube WITH the reverse-painted blank makes for good insurance. Testor's enamel works well. A little paint can go a LONG way! Just dip a toothpick into the paint bottle and mix your epoxy with it. It has saved me many headaches. Good luck!

 

[ScoJo]

How do you reverse paint the blank? What method of application do you use, and what type of paint? This sounds like it could be a very good solution.

 

[pianomanpj]

How do you reverse paint the blank? What method of application do you use, and what type of paint? This sounds like it could be a very good solution.

I use the long pipe cleaners you can get at craft stores. Make sure to run them through your fingers several times first to "defuzz" them. Fibers that are left behind in the blank will add extra thickness that you don't need.

 

[pensbydesign]

paint the in side the hole of the blank, let i dry completely before putting in the tube, i wait a day or so to make sure. even with that said the slim line levees such a thin amount of the blank left that some blanks just don't look good.

 

[ScoJo]

How do you get a nice coat on the inside? Spray it? What type of paint holds up best against scrapes?

 

[ALexG]

What a Coincidence, I'm right now experimenting with a couple of coffee blanks I made, that are a little translucent, yesterday I've painted the tubes, and used a cotton swab for inside the blanks, and today going to glue them, I didn't think about the dyed epoxy, I'll try that and see how it goes, these supposed to be slimlines I'll post further

 

[maxwell_smart007]

If your hole is too tight, it's possible that you might scrape the paint off - especially if you don't give the paint time to cure.

What type of paint are you using - Enamel paint doesn't harden immediately - and it does so only in the presence of oxygen. If you rush the process and put the tube in too quickly, it won't have 'cured'...thin layers of enamel paint are better than thick.

 

[ScoJo]

Are you using a slightly larger drill bit to accomodate painting both the tubes and the blank? Or did you just use the 7mm?

Edit: Sorry for the confusion - this was a question to AlexG.

 

[ScoJo]

I actually bought a package of white tubes from Woodcraft, since I wasn't sure of what paint to use. But if I can clear up that question, I'd like to avoid the extra expense of getting white tubes from them - plus it will open up my ability to use painted tubes on other sizes (Woodcraft doesn't offer white tubes for all of their kits) or to use different colors.

 

[sumterdad]

I use the rustolem spray paint. Just a couple shots from both ends and let dry.

 

[ScoJo]

Thanks, Chris. Do you use that on both the tubes and the blank, or just the blank? If you do both, do you end up needing a larger bit to drill the blank?

 

[BSea]

You might need to sand or file the inside of the blank prior to painting to give yourself extra clearance. You should also dress the ends of the brass tube to help prevent scraping the paint. Personally, I love translucent & transparent blanks. The give a much more 3D look. They are more work, but I think it's worth the extra effort. I use the acrylic paints from Michaels. They come in almost any color you could possible want. Just be sure and use thin coats. You'll probably need several. And I use a q-tip to apply the paint.

 

[ed4copies]

I don't mean any offense, but if the cost of white tubes is too much for your project, you REALLY need to rethink your pricing!!

White tubes are powder coated, you could powder coat at home--but it takes a fair amount of equipment and a nice day outside.

 

[ScoJo]

Fair enough. The bigger benefit to learning how to paint the tubes would be to be able to have them for all kits and to be able to use different colors.

 

[ScoJo]

However, my pricing is still too low, considering that if I trash another acrylic blank my profit for this one will be gone. Although originally I was looking to just make this a self-sustaining hobby rather than a business. But...

 

[ed4copies]

Every paint I have used CAN scratch. BEST performer is Primer--spray. Cheap is fine, and make sure to wait a couple days for it to "dry" thoroughly.

I have pre-painted tubes in my shop in white, black and gray primer, as well as several colors of "model paint" (the small bottles of acrylic for plastic models). They work better if you use epoxy--CA will "melt" many types of paint.

Hope this helps!
Ed

 

[ed4copies]

However, my pricing is still too low, considering that if I trash another acrylic blank my profit for this one will be gone. Although originally I was looking to just make this a self-sustaining hobby rather than a business. But...

If you price your products HIGHER than you think you need to, and everything goes perfectly, you can always reduce the price to your customer when you deliver. RAISING the price is not as easy!!!

If they think it's worth $20, do you think they would say NO to $25 (on the quote). If so, do you WANT the sale??

I like customers who view my work as good enough to command a higher price than I am asking (for custom work).

 

[sumterdad]

+1 on what bsea said about sanding. Just wrap a price of sand paper around d a dowel and lightly sand the inside of the blank

 

[Ted iin Michigan]

+1 on what Chris (above) just said. I've found that sanding the inside of the blank does several good things if you're painting. First, it smoothes out the interior surface so that hunks of plastic don't scratch the paint off the tube; second, it enlarges the hole just a hair and; third, the sanding of the interior surface allows for a smoother, more even coat of paint.

 

[ScoJo]

I drilled the new blank with the 7 mm bit and reverse painted it. Now the white tubes will not fit. The regular brass tubes are a tight fit. Does everyone do this with the same size bit? Would a 9/32" bit be better?

 

[ScoJo]

Nope. 9/32" isn't that much larger that it makes a difference. 7.14 mm. 8 mm or O seems like it would be too large. Maybe I'm just getting too thick of a coat on the reverse paint by spraying it. Seems like it would be difficult to get into a 7.14 mm hole with a brush, but I guess I'll try that tonight after work.

 

[mredburn]

if your 7mm drill is to tight. Take a wooden dowel put a slit in it. cut a strip of sandpaper and spin it on the dowel. Then use a hand drill or mounted on the lathe to sand your hole slightly larger. Paint the inside of the blank and the outside of the tube. ThIn coats and let it dry. OR if you have a "J" drill bit try it.

Nest size up after 9/32 is "L" OR"M" drill bits

 

[alphageek]

Nope. 9/32" isn't that much larger that it makes a difference. 7.14 mm. 8 mm or O seems like it would be too large. Maybe I'm just getting too thick of a coat on the reverse paint by spraying it. Seems like it would be difficult to get into a 7.14 mm hole with a brush, but I guess I'll try that tonight after work.

I paint with acrylic paints, but don't mess with a brush. The easiest way that I've found to paint the inside of blanks is a q-tip!! Simple, cheap and disposable!

 

[hunter-27]

Nope. 9/32" isn't that much larger that it makes a difference. 7.14 mm. 8 mm or O seems like it would be too large. Maybe I'm just getting too thick of a coat on the reverse paint by spraying it. Seems like it would be difficult to get into a 7.14 mm hole with a brush, but I guess I'll try that tonight after work.

I use 9/32 all the time and never an issue(caused by using the bit anyway).