Problem with painted tubes

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siric

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Aug 31, 2010
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Barbados
Hi,

I have started to paint tubes for blanks that are semi-transparent but have run into a severe problem. For 2 blanks that I tried, I have had blowouts during the turning.

On examination it seems that the glue adheres to the paint but the paint is not adhering to the tube (or at least not strong enough to prevent a blowout if there is a catch).

In both instances, I scuffed the tubes. For the first tube I used medium CA and in the second, 5 min epoxy.

Has anyone else have this happen and if so, what was your remedy?

It is very frustrating to say the least!!!

Thanks

Steve
 
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bgio13

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Nov 11, 2007
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Oak Bluffs, MA, USA.
I use Testors modeling paint that comes in small jars to paint the inside of the blank with q-tip. I also dab a toothpick in the same paint and use that to mix the epoxy, it helps cover any scratches that might occur when inserting tubes. Others have used cans of spray paint to paint the tubes which also works well, hope this helps,

Bill
 

Monty

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Mar 4, 2005
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I had that problem using Duplicolor spray paint (really liked the color). Never had the problem whne using the house brand spray paint from Lowe's or WalMart nor when using Rustolium or Krylon spray paint. I scuff the tubes, spay then and also spray down inside the blank from both ends, set the blank on end, and let them dry overnight.
 

Timbo

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Kill Devil Hills, NC USA.
"I've been using Rust-Oleum Painter's Touch 2X Ultra Cover" rattle can for almost two years now. I use to use Testors but find this product superior in every way for painting tubes and the insides of plastic blanks. It dries faster and harder, leaves a thin uniform coat, and sticks very well to both brass and plastic. I like to let it dry over night, but there have been many time I gave it just 2 hours when under pressure to get it done. I use thick CA to glue in my tubes and have not experienced a failure with this product. I have no reason to believe that epoxy wouldn't work as well. Here's my process...

Blanks - Easy...just a quick spray into both ends of the blank, then a quick shake to dislodge and excess. Before spraying, blow out any grit that might be in the hole from the drilling process. If you don't, it will stick in place with the drying paint and act like sandpaper, scraping paint off the tube when you insert it into the blank.

Tubes - No need to sand them first...I don't. Slip them over a dowel rod which acts both as a holder for spraying, rotating and drying. I use a ~3/16" square rod about 30" long. This allows for mounting many tubes at the same time, supported at both ends over my outdoor trash bin for spraying. I spray with a fast back and forth motion just until I see no more shiny brass, rotate, then repeat until the entire tube is covered. Let dry.

If this process does not work for you, I would begin to suspect the failures may have something to do with your process for gluing in the tubes.

Almost forgot...I don't get my spray paint from the big box hardware stores. I go to Michael's or ACMoore craft stores with my "40% off a single Item" coupon.
 

TonyL

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Georgia
I have had this experience, and tried different things. I, now, practically 100% of the time paint the inside of the barrel with Rustoleum primer (white, gray or rust). I do wait at least 12 hours for the paint to cure after my final coat; I usually apply 2 coats. I use epoxy 75% of the time, but let that cure at least 10 hours. If I use CA (medium or thick). I wait at least 6 hours. I understand that things can be turned without waiting as long and others turners have had much success doing things in less time, but I haven't enjoyed that experience yet. I did try a 5 minute cure epoxy that I bought from Rockwell (S3 tube and barrel epoxy, I think). I used it after allowing it to cure for one hour (even though the sales guy says he turns 10 minutes after gluing the tube into the blank.

I think MY "failures" arise when I didn't let the paint on tube or in the barrel cure (not just dry, but cure). I have nothing scientific to back it up and as I keep repeating others , more experienced turners seem to get away with not waiting as long as I have too.

Most of the time I rough-up the tubes, but if I don't, I clean them with acetone.

This is what i do for plastics; not wood

I hope you find what works for you.
 
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I clean both the outside of the tube and the hole in the blank with either 90% alcohol or acetone. Cleaning the the tube removes any oils from you fingers. I use a pipe cleaner bent into half or thirds with either of the solvents. The spring tension of the pipe cleaners press against the hole of the blank and removes the dust. I feel it probably even decreases the oils from woods like cocobolo. I just use Krylon and so far have never had a issue.
 

paintspill

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toronto, ontario, canada.
not a solution, just an observation, but. if your gonna have a blow out your gonna have a blow out and somethings gonna give. in this case the paint. theres a good chance that if they weren't painted you may have still had the blow out. the tools not going to break, neither is the brass. its a case of the weakest link and at the end of the day its still just a coat of paint.
 

Chasper

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It is not the paint, it is the turning technique. Blow outs happen when you are too aggressive in turning, it doesn't matter where you put what kind of paint or what kind of adhesive you used.
 

BSea

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While I agree with most that blowouts will happen, I still think many times that people want to rush to finish a pen (I mean who doesn't). But paint that is dry to the touch doesn't mean it's fully cured. Same thing with glue. If you want to speed up the process, you can put your blanks in a toaster oven to help the paint cure. I normally wait an hour for 5 minute epoxy to cure.

My best results are when I place painted blanks in front of a small electric fan. I usually do this for at least 4 hours, and normally overnight.
 
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Steve - when you say blowout, I think you mean the blank failed as you were turning it, right? If that is the case, it sounds more to me like you might be too aggressive while turning or, perhaps, your tools need sharpening.

Yes, you are correct. The adhesive (CA, epoxy, etc) will adhere to the paint, not the tube. And that bond, while totally sufficient when the pen is complete, can fail in some circumstances.

Take light cuts when turning. And use freshly sharpened tools. The plastic should come off the blank (after it is round) in tiny ribbons. Ed at Exotic Blanks has posted some excellent videos there of this. I've read more than once that most often turning issues can be directly related to sharpness of the tools. I believe this to be true.

Good luck
 

siric

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Aug 31, 2010
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Location
Barbados
Thanks for all of the comments. I believe that my problem is more the paint than the technique, as I turn dozens of pens no prob with unpainted tubes. When I had the problem, when I looked at the tube, there was not a bit of paint where the problem occurred.

I think that in my haste, I had not been letting the paint dry enough. I have tried the tinted epoxy and that is working out so far. If I do have to paint again, I will paint the inside of the blank and wait...wait...wait overnight before I proceed.

Thanks again!!!
 

ed4copies

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"Blow outs" seem to happen most often when we "need" the pen in a hurry.

Not surprisingly, this is also when we are not willing to wait for paint to dry thoroughly.

So, is the wet paint causing the blowout, or is the turning technique causing the blowout and the wet paint is an "innocent bystander"??

We can prove both statements are true, but have we even demonstrated, much less proven, causality??
 
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